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Old 07-05-2011, 11:44 PM   #11
USARice
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whynotthinkwhynot View Post
NO: That's all beside the point ATM. USARice, your AC problems are most likely all in the dash. The whole AC system is connected so that if one part is not functioning- nothing works. For example, if the blower inside the cabin isn't working, the AC controls aren't going to allow the compressor to engage. That means that the engine cooling fans aren't going to kick on. If I were you, I'd fix the blower and vent selector first. Barring any other problems, that will likely fix your AC for you. The vent selector works on a cable, so follow the cable down and make sure there's not a physical obstruction behind the dash causing your vents from not switching. You can purchase a new cable from Ford if needed. I'll bet it's a physical obstruction though- like a coke bottle cap that got bounced up in a bad spot.
There's something binding in the flap itself, that's what I have to figure out. I've already had the cable set out of the car. I put it back just so I could plug the electrical cable (from defrost) back into it. I broke the cable already from trying to force the knob to turn. That needs to be replaced. When I manually turn the flap to the defrost position and turn the switch to the same (so the car can't know any better) and the blower on 2 (where it runs forever before dying) I turn on the A/C and nothing that should happen happens. I'd love for you to be right on this one and I am replacing those pieces before going further but there's no way the car knows that the cable is broken and the blower runs for awhile on 2 so.... And I have to get this fixed or theres no FF11 for me. I'm not driving 750mi each way in August with no A/C... lol

Thanks for all the help guys! :)
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Old 07-06-2011, 01:50 AM   #12
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again Blower thing start with blower motor resister/plug end. and if you can turn the door by hand then it's not binding in the box ust be a controller/cable thing. If the controller is in the wrong setting then it will override your ac buttons.

And the 45lbs is what my '04 had last week on the stock charge from '04 at about 70deg inside the shop.
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Old 07-06-2011, 08:54 AM   #13
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Alright, I'm really not trying to argue this blower thing but it all started like a year and a half ago with the knob being somewhat hard to turn. I even posted about it then on someone elses post for the same thing. The door would noisily go from one setting to another. Like when it would finally go to vent it would "thunk" hollowly into place. Yes, once I disoneected the cable I was able to move it by hand but it was a PITA. The track on the drivers side that you can see was covered in kind of a goldish colored lube and I couldn't see anything binding externally. I'm gonna get a better look this morning.
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Old 07-06-2011, 10:36 AM   #14
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Oh, and just to set the record straight about how the vent door and switch functions are related; they aren"t. If I turned the switch to DEF it would not let me turn on air recirc even though I actually had the vents switched to cabin and when I switched the vents to defrost and the switch to CABIN it let me turn on air recirc so in this system, the switch controls everything, not the physical position of the vent door...

Hope that clears some things up.
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Old 07-06-2011, 10:44 AM   #15
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Quote:
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the switch controls everything, not the physical position of the vent door...

Hope that clears some things up.
This is what I've been saying the entire time. The control unit in certain positions cuts out the AC option. The car has no idea what the doors on the plastic box are doing.
With the door disconnected can you move the cable from the conrtoller? Or is it still hard?
If the heater box is disconnected and you still can't move the controller then it's not the box or at least not just the box.
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Old 07-06-2011, 11:25 AM   #16
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I agree with diesel on this...........your switch is the issue.
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Old 07-06-2011, 11:31 AM   #17
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how long does your blower motor run for? Also a failing resistor pack can make a noise that sounds something like fan blades making contact with something. Had a ranger that did that a few weeks ago.

Also I'm not sure how the focus system is but I know some systems give power to the AC through the resistors (by some way or another) so the AC doesn't run when there is no blower motor operation. This may be the case but I would like to find a diagram to make sure I'm not leading you the wrong way.
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Old 07-06-2011, 12:18 PM   #18
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how long does your blower motor run for? Also a failing resistor pack can make a noise that sounds something like fan blades making contact with something. Had a ranger that did that a few weeks ago.

Also I'm not sure how the focus system is but I know some systems give power to the AC through the resistors (by some way or another) so the AC doesn't run when there is no blower motor operation. This may be the case but I would like to find a diagram to make sure I'm not leading you the wrong way.
Depends on the setting. On 2 is longer than 3 or 4. And OMG I can't believe I didn't think of the resistor pack being related to the noise specifically. Had a tRacer LTS that did the same thing. 'Scorts/tRacers were notorious for failing resistor packs. Good thing they were cheap and readily available at the dealer; I owned 4 of them over time but only one made the blower make that noise and another just failed outright. Hmmm....now I need to find the pack, hopefully it's placed similar to the tRacers...

The A/C doesn't even function when the blower motor is functioning. I can run it on 2 for 15 minutes and the blower won't fail but the clutch hasn't engaged once. No A/C, no pool of water under the car, no cooling fans engaged.
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Old 07-06-2011, 02:32 PM   #19
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Okay, the resistor is cheap enough. I'm wondering if it isn't using the blower to blow cool air into the car, therefore relieving the evap of it's cold, then a safety switch shuts it down. Makes sense.
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Old 07-06-2011, 02:52 PM   #20
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there won't be any water under the car seeing as that the AC doesn't even operate to allow the evaporator to ice up and melt off.

Fix your blower motor issue and you will likely fix your AC.

the resistor pack is behind the glove box next to the motor if I remember correctly. It's in that area anyway. There are a good couple of threads on it if you can't find it.
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