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Old 01-09-2005, 04:04 AM   #41
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Rad. totally ordering it sometimer REALLY soon.
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Old 01-23-2005, 03:29 PM   #42
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one question...if i lift the engine up would everything be easier? Reason I ask is we have to lift the engine of my car to do some other stuff to it.
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Old 01-23-2005, 04:48 PM   #43
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I wouldn't suggest trying to attach the mount to the engine while its out, the front is a very tight fit while the back smoothly slides into place. I ended up bolting the back side in and then using a combination of the weight of the engine and a hammer to get the front to slide into the bracket.
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Old 01-23-2005, 05:05 PM   #44
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Quote:
Originally posted by Frogman283
I wouldn't suggest trying to attach the mount to the engine while its out, the front is a very tight fit while the back smoothly slides into place. I ended up bolting the back side in and then using a combination of the weight of the engine and a hammer to get the front to slide into the bracket.
well i was thinking it'd be easier to get it off the old mount and stuff, then just slide the new one and lower the engine onto it instead of attaching it right away.
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Old 05-02-2005, 02:37 AM   #45
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okay, what is this mod for exactly? from reading alil its for smoother shifting from 1st to second? but it increases engine vibrations? if so are these like the engine vibrations that you get from installing a underdrive pulley that will cause harmonic vibrations (i think thats what its called) that are "bad" for ur engine and will decrease the life of your engine? just wondering :D
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Old 05-02-2005, 07:01 PM   #46
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The rear mount just holds the engine to the frame better than the stock mount because it uses urethane inserts instead of the highly flexible rubber OE inserts, which were designed for a more comfortable ride. Actually you can buy urethane inserts for the stock mount, but IMO the VF mount is superior because its machined instead of cast which makes it much stronger. As a result of either the engine doesn't move around as much, which equates to smoother shifting and more of the torque the engine is making getting to the wheels.

The added vibration has no bearing on the engine, with the addition of the stiffer inserts more of the vibration the engine is already making transfers through to the frame, so you feel more of it. Its still there with the stock mount, but the soft rubber inserts absorb it before it reaches the frame.
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Old 05-07-2005, 07:47 PM   #47
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done. sliced a vein open in the process. grabbed some duct tape, tissue, and peroxide and completed the install. I have to finish my brakes before testing it out. whee.
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Old 05-07-2005, 10:15 PM   #48
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Any addition vibrations are only felt when the car is first started up and while sitting at idle sometimes. This is because of the earlier stated comment as well as just the way the 4 cyl engine happens to run at the 900-950 rpm idle speed. About 1000 rpm and there is enough motion with the engine to stop any vibrations. Some, when getting an ECU Re-flash they ask to have the idle raised to 1000 rpm to stop the vibration. In all, if you can keep your hands off of the steering wheel while sitting at a stop light, then you will really have no notice of the addition vibration.
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Old 05-08-2005, 04:56 PM   #49
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I can feel a little more vibration at lower RPMs. Shifts are much tighter. It is much easier to chirp the tires, and wheel hop seems quite diminshed and less likely. In my opinion, it makes driving much more comfortable. The shifts hit much more tightly, but there is very little of the previous herky-jerkyness allowed by the OEM mount. ex: If were driving my mom around, I think she would prefer the new mount to the old as she holds on for dear life.
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Old 05-08-2005, 06:45 PM   #50
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I've found that anytime I'm sitting at warmed-up idle (~750 RPMs) I feel a slight vibration in the pedals and the floor. If the engine drops below 750 it becomes more pronounced, but its nothing to be worried about. The increased vibration is a small price to pay for the improvement in driving.
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