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Old 11-13-2013, 09:03 AM   #21
daveringstaff
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I no longer have the car I made this thread about. I was also never able to figure out the issue why the temp got so hot when going 65+ mph but would be fine driving in the city.

Then I thought, you know what, it might be a clogged exhaust not allowing the engine to remove the exhaust properly would cause temps to be higher at those sustained rpms at highway speeds.
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Old 11-13-2013, 11:58 AM   #22
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I no longer have the car I made this thread about. I was also never able to figure out the issue why the temp got so hot when going 65+ mph but would be fine driving in the city.

Then I thought, you know what, it might be a clogged exhaust not allowing the engine to remove the exhaust properly would cause temps to be higher at those sustained rpms at highway speeds.
Odd as it seems, you may be onto something...I am also throwing an Oxygen Sensor code, i replaced both and it is still present leaving the cat as the culprit. bad cat could be blockage, could lead to running hot
Any one care to chime in
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Old 11-13-2013, 04:50 PM   #23
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You're not hot at those listed temps just like the last guy wasn't. The low fan doesn't even come on til routinely 110C, or 220-225 degrees. The dash odo can be incredibly wrong, when sensor goes bad it will tilt the odo numbers you get, so that may not be reliable. ALL engines on the planet get hotter as they turn faster. That IS reliable. More rev=more heat, it IS a heat engine you know.

If getting in the red then check the resistor, it commonly melts to DNF the low fans and then you have no fan til car heats more to turn on high fans. Common issue on these. The needle then moves into the red. The low fan relay could be bad too.

Low fan comes on at 110C and off at 100C and perfectly normal temperatures there. These run hotter than earlier oldschool engines for emissions reasons but can do so forever as long as you make sure any fan problems are fixed and quick.

Being used to cooler running engines like before is a mistake, they sludged up much faster than these and did not last as long. Pull your valve cover and look under it. At 150K miles it better be pretty much still new looking or you're doing something wrong. Overcooling back down to stay at less than 100C can do that, the oil then does not get hot enough to boil out moisture and the sludge and buildup then begin.

Hook up say LEDs to both fans and you will see a much bigger temp swing even, the engines may NEVER hit 110C at all during winter but commonly stay there all summer long. A difference of 10-15 degrees depending on time of year there. I've gone weeks in winter without ever turning a fan on and they stay on 100% of the time in summer almost.

Normal. Intended they run hot but you have to fix cooling issues quick since less room for mistakes before popping gaskets. Another way to cycle out cars to the scrapyard to get you to buy new one. You ditch car because you think it's running too hot......

If temp steadily increases with no drop then radiator clogged, water pump bad or basic engine has enough sediment buildup to overheat. Cast iron blocks do that when run long enough with no corrosion protection in them. The coating over the metal inhibits heat transfer.
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Old 07-15-2014, 11:24 AM   #24
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After repairing the connector to the low speed fan resistor the fans now come on low when the ac is turned on. However, I don't think the fans run without the ac on. I checked the dash temp reading in diagnostic mode this morning and it started around 35 C then after 15 minutes of driving and it was around 76 - 80 C. I suspect the cylinder head temp sensor may not be in spec.

I'm going to check the coolant hose and cylinder head temp with a small infrared thermometer and see what it shows.

By the way, I've never seen the temp gauge needle go past the middle of the range in the few years I've had the car.
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Old 07-15-2014, 12:15 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chadr View Post
After repairing the connector to the low speed fan resistor the fans now come on low when the ac is turned on. However, I don't think the fans run without the ac on. I checked the dash temp reading in diagnostic mode this morning and it started around 35 C then after 15 minutes of driving and it was around 76 - 80 C. I suspect the cylinder head temp sensor may not be in spec.

I'm going to check the coolant hose and cylinder head temp with a small infrared thermometer and see what it shows.

By the way, I've never seen the temp gauge needle go past the middle of the range in the few years I've had the car.
Its about 90 F out side this afternoon. I started the car and let it idle with the AC off. After 20 or 30 minutes the gauge diag mode reached 110 C and the high speed fans turned on for 30 seconds or less. The temp of the hoses and thermostat housing were right around 190 F (88 C) at the peak temp. The gauge temp dropped just below 100 C as the fans turned off. The low speed fans did not run at all.

I then turned the AC on and the high speed fans were on for a couple seconds then they went to low speed. The low speed fan continued to run while the AC was on and maybe until a minute or so after I turned off the AC.

Should the low speed fans ever come on with the AC off?
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Old 07-17-2014, 12:40 PM   #26
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Yes, but not as simple as that. The PCM turns them on when needed and sometimes they don't even come on with a/c on.

Your needle should be moving to the right with high fan only coming on, my two cars ('00, '02) both move needle very slightly when the low fan comes on, then needle drops back slightly to dead straight up. If low fan has something wrong and does not come on the needle swing is much more and readily noticeable.
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