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Old 04-30-2011, 01:23 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bay_wolf View Post
Another question, do you think a tune would be a good first step instead of an intake or header swap?

EDIT: What I'm really wanting to know is I have $1000 to spend on upgrades and to make it more responsive, powerful, and handle better; what should I get done?

... with a $1000 budget what do you think would be the best performance mods. (I will buy used as I don't care about that)
The SCT/Predator tuner the guys at the dyno will give you can be reprogrammed again later (they're about $400 + another couple hundred for dyno time) so a tune will only really give you a baseline reading, and a talking point later when referring to how far you've come... You may want to save that one for later after you have more stuff as it's gonna eat up that budget and only do so much for performance feel without better parts.

For better response and power delivery you may want to look into polyurethane engine mounts... My manual went from dropping 1000k+ rpms between shifts to around 500rpms. Acceleration was crispier because of 'em too. Just a warning on that though; your car may not play cds anymore! The engine vibrations reverberate through the whole frame and the cd player skipped so much I couldn't use it anymore.

And handling could be improved with springs (I have Eibach pro kit springs 1.5in drop), and you might also look into SVT shocks while the car's apart and getting the springs ( they're about 1.5in lower than what you have already) they'll round out the suspension without having to go to a more hardcore suspension setup... And a lowered Focus is already a VERY competent corner-carver!
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Old 04-30-2011, 02:29 PM   #12
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While I haven't done very much to my Focus, the tune offered the biggest improvement.
Went with Tom's, worked great.
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Old 04-30-2011, 04:17 PM   #13
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The tune is for safety the flasher is a tool. Intake and exhaust mods can create lean conditions which can cause engine damage. Tuning fixes this
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Old 05-06-2011, 10:11 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mlbbaseball View Post
a JRSC will cost u a full 2k after tuning unless you get the base kit w/ the black box. then it will put you in the 160 range for 1200.

YOU WILL NOT reach 160 for under 1200 bucks any other way than Nitrous or a JRSC. hands down end of story.
What will I have with a ported head, 65mm TB ported 2001 intake, CFM UDP kit, SVT MAF and intake setup, MSD coil/wires, SVT header w/2.5" Exhaust, ORP, Crower Stage 2 cams and a tune I won't hit that number? Can you can give me guesstimate with your experience? I sure someone has done this before.
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Old 05-07-2011, 03:33 AM   #15
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65mm TB, ported IM, CFM UDP, MSD coil and wires wont add up to more than a combined 5whp tops. the coil pack is completely useless other than for looks and the other 3 will make more of a difference on throttle response. if you are shooting for the most WHP for money spent i would port the stock TB and IM and not buy the UDP kit at all. for the record the stock coil is good for well over 700whp. that goes for the wires as well.

the power you make will depend ALOT on what is done with your head. if it is a stock head that gets taken to a local machine shop then i wouldnt expect a whole lot since they probably wont do the best job in the world. its just the way it is, not alot of machine shops will spend the time to get the most flow out of a head unless they already know how to and since a focus head probably doesnt come to them very often, chances are that they wont. i dont know about your area but around here if you walk in with heads from a small block chevy or ford v8 you can get them done great any day of the week. same goes for pretty much any honda head. now if you walk in with a zetec head you definitely get a WTF? kind of look and are lucky if they even agree to mill it let alone port it.

its also important to know how much compression you will have. will you mill the head for more compression or leave it at stock compression? more compression = more power but also means you will HAVE TO run higher octane fuel.

will the head have larger valves than stock? will it have upgraded valve springs? with the amount of lift of the crower 2's it would be advisable.

SVT header will add 15whp PROVEN on open header, the 2.5 inch exhaust might hold that number back some however. the more you can open up the exhaust after the header the better off you will be. free flowing exhaust is best for higher rpm power which is where you will be making your power with those cams too. IF you can or if you have the option try and get your exhaust done in 3in. the 1/2in might cost perhaps 2-5 whp on the top but that is purely a guess.

the nearest i can figure by looking at an old ford racing book on how much power FR stuff is good for you might be looking at a total of 18whp and 10wtq from the head if it is done correctly or is a FRPP head or equivalent. maybe 15whp and 5wtq from the cams.

so in review 15whp header + 18whp head + 15whp cams + 5 from intake = around 53whp increase POSSIBLY. it could come out to more with extra compression and it might come out to less if your bottom end is completely worn out.

hope that helps. i still think that is ALOT of money to wrap up in 50whp when i can make twice that much of an increase from a $500 nitrous kit and still have my torque too. good luck and let us know how it turns out! dyno videos are always nice to watch.
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Old 05-07-2011, 03:41 AM   #16
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HA! lookie what i found. this is basically the same chart i was looking at in my ford racing book. according to THIS one the numbers were made on an engine dyno. which basically means this is how much power the car has at the crank, not at the wheels. subtract 15-25 hp from the numbers there to take into account power lost between the crank and wheels. 10-15whp for a manual 20-30whp for an automatic would be better.
http://www.newcougar.org/forums/atta...9/40349.attach
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Old 05-07-2011, 08:14 AM   #17
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Ported the head myself. MAF readings during the first tune were indicating about 8-10% more airflow over stock. This was a noticeable seat of the pants improvement. It was milled as a std cleanup procedure only .010"-.015". Yes it will have the Crower springs and titanium retainers. Adjustable cam gears will dial in the cams too. As the last upgrade before the N2O kit.
I been doing this stuff for a while (25 years).
At 46 people do think I should be driving something else but hey these cars are a blast to drive and I don't care.
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Old 05-07-2011, 10:27 AM   #18
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awesome! you may be held up by the flow of the head a little but you should be able to hit the 160whp mark. maybe mill the head a little bit more if you have it off (an additional .010" should put you slap in 93/91 octane only territory) and it should be good to go. oh i forgot to mention anything about a 3 angle valve job. those tend to help out pretty good too. have fun with that nitrous. please be safe with it too, get a good tune, use a larger fuel jet than the nitrous jet, and absolutely must have a wideband air/fuel ratio gauge.
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Old 05-07-2011, 09:30 PM   #19
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I does have a 3 angle on it. I've already tuned it with a WB O2. No other way would be acceptable. At the moment it runs pretty hard for what it is. Have 2 free tunes left from the shop I tuned it with so when I drop the cams and springs in it I'll get it tuned again. I have an SCT 3015 tuner for the car.

Thanks for the reply.
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Old 05-14-2011, 06:40 AM   #20
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At what point do you have to go with bigger injectors? The stock 19lbs/hr are only good to support 130HP at the crank. I am sure that 160HP at the wheels requires more injector.
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