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Old 06-08-2013, 05:35 PM   #1
MikeD666
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Several Spontaneous Electrical Issues

Hello all,

Long time lurker, first time poster. Thanks for your all the time you've saved me over the years.

My 2007 Ford Focus SES Hatchback has no power to several of the cabin fuses. This occurred while I tried to tie up a repair I just completed to the blend door, blend door controls, blend door knob, parking break, and instrument cluster lights. I'm guessing that I am the cause. None of the issues were present prior to my handy work. I will try to post the actual fuse numbers later when I get a chance.

My blinkers, brake lights, rear defrost button, rear window wiper, instrument panel do not work at all. Again, they all worked fine prior. The headlights/brights work. There may be more pieces not working that I have yet to discover. I noticed my aftermarket remote starter lock buttons stopped working too.

I also receive no power to the hood fuse box slots 16 and 17 - I replaced the r6 headlight/running light relay for the heck of it, and that made no difference. I swapped several fuses that sounded like they might relate, and no luck at all. Again, no power even into the fuse.

Any suggestions? My dash is pretty much torn apart right now - I don't know what I've broke....I never disconnected my battery during this work as well.

Thanks in advance,
Ken.

Update 6/19: Issue Resolved in later post!



Last edited by MikeD666; 06-19-2013 at 11:08 AM.
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Old 06-08-2013, 06:49 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeD666 View Post
I never disconnected my battery during this work as well.
And now you know why that's always step number one before doing any electrical work.
No matter, sounds like you've blown a main fuse that controls many electrical subsystems. Check fuse 1 and/or 7 (main power supply) under the hood, for example. It supplies power to the passenger compartment fuse box.
Heck, check every fuse in the passenger and engine compartment; you may have blown several.

Last edited by BC_ZX3; 06-09-2013 at 05:27 PM. Reason: sp.
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Old 06-08-2013, 07:12 PM   #3
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Thanks for the reply. I don't know why I was too lazy to disconnect the battery. I think I started ripping things apart before I realized how serious I was getting.

I just triple checked all of the fuses with a 12 volt light tester. The power distribution box - both 1 and 7 checked out fine with engine running. 16 and 17 (Low Beam left and right) are still out. I removed the fuse and even checked directly. No feed at all.

The inside compartment has 4 with no power feed. 40, 49, 50, and 62. Rear defroster, heated mirror and backlite indicator, back up lamps, and radio.

My radio works fine, it is an aftermarket hooked up with a plug in harness...worried more about my instrument cluster :/.

Again, these are not burnt fuses. No power feed at all.

I was crossing my fingers for 1 and 7 though.

Any other thoughts?
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Old 06-08-2013, 08:58 PM   #4
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OK, nothing like a good game of cat and mouse. Let's pick one circuit; low beams.
Circuit goes like this:
Fuse 59 (hot in start or run) - lighting switch - multi-function switch (on stalk for high beam flash, high beams) - low beam relay R6 - fuse 16 and fuse 17 - left and right low beam - ground.
You say no feed to fuse 16 and 17. Therfore, go to the relay. If you swap the high beam R5 and low beam relay R6 - I assume high beams work, correct? - do you get any headlights?

Edit: Just noticed in the later year, Ford powered the low beam relay via a separate fuse 22. Might want to check that too.
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Old 06-09-2013, 08:15 AM   #5
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I think I might be able to rule that circuit out.

Fuse 59 good with key turned - running lights and head lights in front worked with switch - brights turned on and off - fuses 16 and 17 then work with brights off. I must have had them on prior. Relay r5 and r6 look different. Since I already put a new r6, I swaped with the old, and that worked the same as well.

Fuse 22 checked good as well.

This leaves me with the inside panel fuses only.

Thanks for the help thus far!

Any more thoughts.
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Old 06-09-2013, 10:25 AM   #6
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OK. Next circuit: Heated mirrors.
Fuse 7 - rear defrost relay R25 - Fuse 50 - mirror heater elements - ground.
R25 is closed via heater control module (behind dash) which gets power from fuse 45. The control module is grounded.
Rear defogger circuit is identical except it's Fuse 7 - rear defrost relay R25 - Fuse 49 - window heater elements - ground.

I'd say check the electrical connection to the heater control module. You may have knocked it.
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Old 06-09-2013, 02:40 PM   #7
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Thanks again for responding.

Fuse 7 checks good -

I cannot get to R25 to test. R 25 is located behind some metal in the cabin fuse box. I will have to remove the entire fuse box to get to it...or so it appears :(, i'll try to work around this for the moment -

Fuses 49 and 50 do not receive power -

I have no heated mirrors, and the rear defrost heating element button does not light up like it once did. Fuse 45 checked good.

Can you think of any easy way to check that relay? When you say heater control module, are you referring to this rear defrost button? If so, would you think I could short those pins for this?

Is anybody aware of a screw in the actual dash that might ground certain elements? I still have quite a few removed at this time.

I wish I knew with certainty how to test the complete circuits. Is there any special way to check the ground - such as where it is grounded at? - I'm having trouble finding any ground points to check.
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Old 06-09-2013, 03:04 PM   #8
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I'm doing some research on testing open/short/ground circuit issues, so that I have a better understanding. I was able to obtain a Chilton manual as well, hopefully I will better understand the circuit diagrams when seeing them.

If not anything, I'll learn something new.
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Old 06-09-2013, 03:46 PM   #9
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I'm pretty sure it's not the relay; it's your heater control module. At the base of the dash, where you've been working, there are the defrost, AC and recirculating air switches/functions. While these look like individual switches on the front, they are an integrated solid state unit on the back side. Remember how if you have your "air direction" dial set to front defrost, your recirc button won't light/work? All these functions are integrated. (btw, you don't mention whether you have AC or not.)
I can send you a colour coded wiring schematic if you pm me.
You've likely dislodged the multi pin connector that controls these functions. Your observation that the rear defrost light doesn't illuminate would indicate the problem is in the switch, not the relay, because the illumination light is before the relay in the circuit. i.e. if the problem was the relay, light would still come on.
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Old 06-09-2013, 04:28 PM   #10
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If this pin were dislodged, would it also be effecting the instrument cluster as well as blinkers? Or would you consider those separate problems? The bundle of wires on that connection is wrapped pretty tight, and it is one of the easier to remove connections. I'll try giving them a push. I may have access to another (06) focus to test the switch itself with. If not, to the junk yard I will go.

I ended up pulling the fuse box down, and swapped the relay with identical r21. No changes there.

In the Chilton manual, I have come across something called the generic electric module (GEM). I"m going to research this a little bit, as some of the items it controls concerns me.

The wiring diagrams were a bit overwhelming. I wouldn't mind seeing anything if you have it. If you are drawing something up though, I really couldn't ask for too much more of your time.

Otherwise, I probably won't have a chance to dig further into the car for a day or so.

Baby steps - I sure hope it is the heater module.

btw - I do have ac
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