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Old 03-06-2012, 04:09 PM   #31
Tiger-Heli
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Pretty sure I'll have to split it apart, but it helps to know what to look for when I get it apart so thanks for that.

And yes, I figured it's broken the way it is now, so nothing to lose by taking it apart, and if I can't fix it, it's only $25.

I'll let you know what I find out ...
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Old 03-07-2012, 07:22 AM   #32
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There - I fixed it.

It wasn't that hard, but your description helped. For anyone else who needs to disassemble one of these:

I started by using a jeweler's screwdriver to pry the loosest part of the light green locking tab away from the dark green half. Once I had that free, I used a small (1/8-inch ?) Craftsman standard screw driver which gave me more leverage. Looking back, I think once I had all three tabs loose on one side, I could have just pried it over, but I wasn't sure of that, so I just kept working my way around it until all six tabs were loose.

Slowly take the two halves apart.

The top of the dark green half contains a large fairly stiff spring, and a U-shaped set of contact brushes. Unfortunately, the brushes separated and I'm not positive how they were oriented. I'm pretty sure they went so the "tangs" angled down toward the base of the plunger. I think it would be obvious if you were looking at the switch anyway. The brush has two sets of contacts, so I rotated it 180-degrees so the unused ones were making contact, so I might get another 120,000 miles out of the switch.

There are also two fixed contacts in the dark green half, but these don't matter.

The light green half only contains the white plunger, a white collar, and a small "circlip" - actually more like a snap ring. I used my fingers to push the open ends of the snap ring apart, making a loop on the other side, then carefully used a very small jeweler's screwdriver to pull the snap ring off.

The plunger doesn't have fixed notches, it just has one notch at the bottom and one at the top and then something like hacksaw blade teeth to allow the plunger to ratchet to the desired length. (Thinking about it now, it might have worked fine to just grab the plunger with Vise-grips and pull rather than disassembling the switch).

I think Ford used the ratchet mechanism so that the same switch can be used in multiple car models.

Once you have the snap ring off, remove the collar, then re-insert the snap ring and lower the collar on the plunger to the upper notch.

Now put the contact brush back on, make sure the spring is seated, and snap the two halves together. I had a minor hiccup here where I broke one of the "ears with knobs" that lays against the mounting bracket off, but I don't think it's really needed, and I super-glued it back just in case.

Thanks again for all the help!!!
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Old 03-25-2012, 11:40 PM   #33
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cruise control quit working last night, so I did the test procedure and it reset the cruise control, now it works, thanks!!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by 6SPD_soul View Post
I just had some issues with my CC and have sorted that out, but I found there is a really slick self diagnostic procedure for the cruise control. You don't need a diagnostic scanner to do this either, just the car. From what you describe I think the cruise control servo (motor with a spool of cable that controls the throttle body for CC) is bad, but this test will tell you for sure where the problem lies. This self diagnostic test will work on all Foci from 00-05, in addition to many other Ford models in those years.

The test is basically this: you're going to be turning the ignition key on and off repeatedly and then hitting the cruise control buttons quickly in a specific sequence, and then the cruise control light will blink repeatedly, and the number of blinks tells you where the fault is. It's easy to do once you get it sorted in your head and you won't mess anything up if you don't get it right the first time.

If it's a manual, don't depress the clutch. If it's an automatic leave it in park. First, turn the ignition to the accessory/run position but don't start it. Press and hold the CC off switch and then repeatedly turn the ignition from run to off and back to run again, you should do this 3 or 4 times. End this sequence with the ignition in the run position and then let go of the off switch, and you should see your CC light blink once, which means it's ready to run the self diagnostic. If it flashes 5 times at this point then it's a faulty speed control module, which is that servo I mentioned above. Quickly after the light blinks (like a second after), you then need to hit the other cruise control buttons in this order, and you will need to hit them fairly quickly for the test to proceed:

1. On
2. Resume
3. Coast
4. Set/accel

The CC light should blink once after each button you hit. Kind of take your time hitting the buttons and it's easier to keep track of the flashes, which is important at the end because you need to count the number of flashes that come after you hit "set". There won't be an immediate flash after you hit "set", there will be a slight delay, and then will come another short series of flashes. This next part is all verbatim (except for the parenthesis) from the Ford guide I'm translating here.

0 Flashes (no flash after last button is pushed): suspect circuitry or speed control steering wheel switches.
1 Flash: Static test passed (cruise control should work)
2 Flashes: BPP (brake pedal position) switch is damaged, circuit is damaged, or the brake or clutch pedal was applied during test.
3 Flashes: Brake deactivation switch is open or circuit is damaged.
4 Flashes: Indicates the speed signal circuit is open or damaged (wheel speed sensors, ETC)
5 Flashes: Suspect circuitry or module.

So I guess try to run the test. It's pretty quick and easy once your thumbs get the button sequence down. Then you should at least have a better idea where the problem is coming from. Post back here with results, I'm curious where the problem is for you. Mine was the brake deactivation switch which I'm putting in soon.
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Old 04-05-2012, 08:57 PM   #34
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So I got a weird one. Installed an aftermarket JVC Stereo the other night. I disconnected the neg side of the battery for the installation. Simple installation using the supplied factory stereo plugs. After the install and reconnecting the battery my CC stopped working. It worked perfect up to then and after in quite working. I can't run the test since the CC light on my dash has not worked since I purchased the car 2 months ago. Took it to Ford and they said it needs a new servo at about $600 plus installation. Is there something I can try, can the servo be repaired, can I get a new servo cheaper somewhere else and do the install myself?

I'm new to the forum, Please Help!!

Thanks
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Old 04-06-2012, 08:12 AM   #35
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Okay, that's weird.

Lots of things don't add up here.

The JVC stereo should have zero interface with the CC system - unless it was a navigation model that tied in with the brake light switch, and even then.

Also - you are saying the cruise worked fine before the stereo was installed, but the dash light never worked - not sure that was correct.

Not likely the servo can be repaired, but if I looked it up properly, SilverStateFord shows it as MSRP $171.82 and their price $121.44 plus shipping. You could also PM b16sir1991 - He works at Hillbish Ford in NC and has gotten good deals for me previously.

Verify that it is indeed the servo before you dig into this, though.
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Old 05-04-2012, 05:28 PM   #36
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I suspect its not the stereo, just kind of weird it stopped working right after the install.

Yes, you're correct, the little dash indicator light has not worked since I
ve owned the car but the CC has worked regardless.

Since the indicator light does not work I have no way to diagnose it. I've checked all the fuses and tested the pedal switches and they seem to be working fine. Even tried a road test while having the switches jumped with wire, still no luck.

Not sure where to go from here other then the dealer, or a different dealer just to double check.

Dave

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tiger-Heli View Post
Okay, that's weird.

Lots of things don't add up here.

The JVC stereo should have zero interface with the CC system - unless it was a navigation model that tied in with the brake light switch, and even then.

Also - you are saying the cruise worked fine before the stereo was installed, but the dash light never worked - not sure that was correct.

Not likely the servo can be repaired, but if I looked it up properly, SilverStateFord shows it as MSRP $171.82 and their price $121.44 plus shipping. You could also PM b16sir1991 - He works at Hillbish Ford in NC and has gotten good deals for me previously.

Verify that it is indeed the servo before you dig into this, though.
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Old 05-07-2012, 01:20 PM   #37
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Not sure if you read earlier in the thread, but LED taillights and/or a burnt out taillight will keep the cruise from working - always good to check the easy/inexpensive things first.
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Old 11-11-2012, 06:00 AM   #38
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Thank you I have the same problem and have been trying to diag for a while
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Old 11-11-2012, 09:14 PM   #39
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IF the cruise control was added by the Ford dealership rather than at the factory the cruise control light in the cluster may never turn on but the CC will still work
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Old 11-30-2012, 02:20 AM   #40
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I to installed a Pioneer head unit and now my CC stopped working. All bulbs are good, all fuses good and I did the test. It came back as zero flashes (circuitry problem or steering wheel switch) so what do I do to fix this??
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