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Old 06-16-2011, 10:15 AM   #81
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^ haha. Actually I'm not driving it right now. It runs great, but the exhaust seal on the turbo took a crap. So that's being sent out to comp for a rebuild. I'm hoping around the same numbers as your going for. People said that the stock fuel system is good for 350whp safely.
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Old 06-16-2011, 12:04 PM   #82
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Good thing you checked the head before, which main rear seal are you using? Mine a FM was leaking just replaced it with an OEM, don't want to take the tranny out again, good luck!!
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Old 06-16-2011, 12:31 PM   #83
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fordtech View Post
^ haha. Actually I'm not driving it right now. It runs great, but the exhaust seal on the turbo took a crap. So that's being sent out to comp for a rebuild. I'm hoping around the same numbers as your going for. People said that the stock fuel system is good for 350whp safely.
Once you put the restrictor in it it will be fine. My SPA has close to 20 k on it now, and not a whisper of smoke. How long is it gonna take to get it back ?


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Good thing you checked the head before, which main rear seal are you using? Mine a FM was leaking just replaced it with an OEM, don't want to take the tranny out again, good luck!!
All mine are Ford OEM. Got em from Tousley....I know what you mean , But after you do a job on the Focus for the 3rd time, it does get easier. LOL.
When are you getting back on the road ? And did you get that head , I saw you were after in the BST section. Was that on FJ ?
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Old 06-16-2011, 12:53 PM   #84
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Good!! I changed both the front and rear, did not get the head, mine can possibly be saved then ported & p, angle valve job, etc. Waiting for the shop as we speak, the engine bay has only the block inside right now, just getting all issues corrected including the tranny, which I think it wasn't shimmed/preloaded, new rack & pinion as well.
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Old 06-16-2011, 01:27 PM   #85
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love the build! Can anyone tell me what they torqued the eagle rods, arp main bolts and arp head studs? any llink?
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Old 06-16-2011, 02:03 PM   #86
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[QUOTE=iroc34;3708410]Once you put the restrictor in it it will be fine. My SPA has close to 20 k on it now, and not a whisper of smoke. How long is it gonna take to get it back ?QUOTE]

It had a .065" restrictor in it. And CLOUDS of smoke. I didn't send it out but i'm hopin to have it back on the road in like 3 weeks.
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Old 06-16-2011, 11:24 PM   #87
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OK engine and trans on the ground.



And Yes the engine and trans can be slid out from underneath. Gotta take off the front bumper cover and inner wheel well cover.



Installed the ARP head studs. But now I have to redo the valve clearances.



Here are the measurements I got. ?? they were supposed to be done from the machine shop.



So I removed the head from my old motor , which there was nothing wrong with it. ( I wanted a spare, I could throw back in ) And removed all the buckets. Now I will redo the new head tomorrow.

Here is how I measured the clearance . Lobe up. Check under the big end.
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Old 06-16-2011, 11:39 PM   #88
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 700whpfocus View Post
love the build! Can anyone tell me what they torqued the eagle rods, arp main bolts and arp head studs? any llink?
Hey Ray, I got the info from ARP. Head studs are 60 ft pounds in 2 steps.


RE: Head stud info. Zetec 2.0
...
From:
Sam Benson <samb@arpfasteners.com>
...
Add to Contacts
To: Rocco Ameduri <iroc34a@yahoo.com>

Rocco, the 2.0 Zetec would be head stud kit 251-4702 that has 10mm head studs and they would be a torque of 2 steps to 60 ft lbs.





Thanks,

Sam Benson

Qu al ity and Customer Service Supervisor

ARP, (Automotive Racing Products)

samb@arpfasteners.com

800.826.3045 toll free

805.339.2200 office

805.650.0742 fax

And I couldnt get their e-mail to down load to here. But they are telling me also 60 ft pounds in 3 steps.

You can double check , by e-mailing Sam Benson at arp.
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Old 06-17-2011, 06:45 AM   #89
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Thanks Rocco..........Good looking out!
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Old 06-17-2011, 09:45 AM   #90
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I just got off the phone with Comp Cams. I was told the valve Clearences for both intake and exhaust were .010
I have the original stage II ' s. The #' s are 10803 I and 10804 E. Any one know for sure if that Is correct ?
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