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Old 02-28-2011, 06:48 PM   #81
inis
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Originally Posted by bmylez View Post
Yeah, I said I would tune leaner, but I'm also running meth. Don't worry about me, John
Ouch tuning with meth, thats risky business.
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Old 02-28-2011, 07:18 PM   #82
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Not really. My AFRs and timing are fine without meth. I have a DashHawk that flashes bright green when the knock sensor goes off.
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Old 02-28-2011, 07:22 PM   #83
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u mean i cant run 15:1?
i run that




at idle
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Old 02-28-2011, 08:08 PM   #84
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This is a silly thread. It's all about preventing detonation and finding that max torque combination of a/f and spark, then dialing the spark down a couple degrees for a safety margin.
There is no magic. There is no amazing combination in the Pro Racer Package that allows one person to run a higher AFR with the exact same timing as another person.
If two tuners are dealing with the same compression ratio (boost included), same intake temps, same fuel and ignition systems, then their spark tables and MTF table will be darn close if both are indeed competent tuners.
One person prefers their safety margin to be fuel and the other to be retarded timing. Some both.
It just doesn't matter.

FWIW, and I'm clearly no taking sides because I don't care either way, my timing tables were set up originally by Tom.
I've tweaked here and there but overall I do like his method. I keep my in-boost AFR in the low 11's as long as there is no deto.
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Old 03-02-2011, 08:42 PM   #85
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Originally Posted by bmylez View Post
Not really. My AFRs and timing are fine without meth. I have a DashHawk that flashes bright green when the knock sensor goes off.
What are you running?
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Old 03-02-2011, 08:45 PM   #86
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Without meth, about 12.7 and 14* from 5k to red line. With meth, more like 11.8.
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Old 03-03-2011, 08:59 PM   #87
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Skimmed over what I've missed ... what I can tell you is the thread has gone off-topic, and by that I mean it isn't specifically about the Focus. For some 10 odd years or so many people have constantly said this car is not a Honda/Toyota/Mitsubishi/Chevy/Dodge/Etc/Etc. Therefore bringing tuning recommendations from other makes/models is pretty irrelevant to the discussion at hand.
*insert 'but the internet said'

If people would listen and bear in mind what is specific and what isn't topics could actually be productive and no confusion would take place.
*saunters off back into blue heaven
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Old 04-05-2013, 02:38 PM   #88
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lol had to look back on this and couldnt stop laughing, stone age tuning doesnt cut it anymore. I love this thread
haha
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Old 04-06-2013, 03:54 PM   #89
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This thread is a good read but it has enormous misinformation in it.
Most posters don't have the experience or resources to indicate what AF is safe or made the most power. There are many boosted motors from a recent engine program in the trash heap due to pre-ignition under boost. I know this first hand.
The main issue is detonation or pre-ignition. That will kill your motor, no matter what pistons or rods you have in very short order.
Excessive timing for a given load (boost) and AF causes detonation.
Running richer AF's allows more tolerance on spark advance for many reasons incuding cooler combustion temperatures, increased mass low and faster burn rates.
No one on this thread has the finances (I am only assuming here) for an engine durability / development program. Some can use customers engines to come up with what is safe and they advise for free.
Running richer is always safer for detonation. It's the reason many stock tunes actually add fuel if pre-ignition is detected. Many OEM's add fuel for knock.
I have over 20 years in engine calibration, including a certain production boosted foci, and I would NEVER run near NA best torque leves of AF. I don't do it in my personal stock block 03 SVT that is boosted.
There is no reason to make a small amount of HP if you are 3 degrees of spark away from smoking a piston.
Issues happen, boost controller lines age, leak, split, temperature sensors can be intermittent, electronics can loose a ground, fuel truck dumped 87 in the 93 tank, anything, when you are WOT at 7000 rpm is not the time to wish you had an extra AF ratio to prevent a meltdown.
but you can do what you want....

It's also interesting that there is a reference to stone-age tuning.
Just because you have a smart phone does not mean you are doing anything much different than the '85 fuel injected Mustang calibration. The basics of AF, spark timing, cylinder pressure and airflow still apply. Just because you have a shiny new tuner, doesn't mean you can do anything diferent that some one else, and running leaner doesn't make it a space-age tune...
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Old 04-06-2013, 04:01 PM   #90
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damn. I guess starting at 10.8 and ending up at 15 under boost is a bad thing.
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