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Old 01-31-2011, 08:26 PM   #1
uRabbit
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Maintenance Schedule?

We just got our '07 with 30k miles and I really want to make sure this thing lasts! I want to get it on a regular maintenance schedule, especially since my wife will be in charge of the maintenance until I get home.

Is Edmund's schedule decent? http://www.edmunds.com/car-maintenan...0000&zip=83705

Or what do y'all suggest?

Also, additives. I use Seafoam about once a month when I'm home. Is there anything else?

Thanks!

Edit: what is the size of the license plate screws?


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Old 01-31-2011, 09:22 PM   #2
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I had a 2004 Zetec wagon auto with 183,000 miles [till a drunk totaled it]
Change engine oil every 3000 miles instead of 5000 miles
It worked for me
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Old 02-01-2011, 12:55 AM   #3
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Why not follow the Ford recommendations? Get your manual and maintenance guides here https://www.fleet.ford.com/maintenan...ls/default.asp

Changing oil every 3K in these cars is a waste. 5K is the recommended interval on a synthetic blend, or 6 months I believe for people who don't drive daily or take short trips. The Motorcraft oil and filters is good stuff on a budget.

I assume you mean Seafoam in the gas tank once a month? Either way I can't imagine your 07 has much sludge or buildup unless you pump gas from a rusty old tank in a field. Try a bottle of Techron concentrate then don't worry about it until the next oil change.
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Old 02-01-2011, 12:07 PM   #4
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All EFI cleaners waste money needlessly. OF course, nobody that uses one will tell you that because they spent money on it, so it must be working. Anyway, do what you want, but you should be aware that improperly using Seafoam like a recent FF with an SVT might cause you to take a trip to the shop when it blows up the intake manifold. The SVT was a little better off because it has flexible connectors between upper and lower intake manifolds- somewhere for the explosion to go.

Lets get to maintenance.

1) fuel filter- very often overlooked, and should be changed every 25k miles or 1yr IIRC, if you want to keep your injectors working as best as possible, this will be well worth it's weight in in-tank EFI cleaners.

2) Air filter. Your factory air cleaner is a lifetime (100k mile) unit. Sometimes road damage has shortened the life, so familiarize yourself with where it is located- under the driver's fender- in case you need to check it after having some issues. When it does finally go bad (owner's manual dictates how to test it) then it is best IMO to replace it with an aftermarket CAI with an oil/fabric or oil/foam filter. It costs less than a new factory replacement, and will give you a couple of mpgs + a tad bit of power to boot.

3) Spark plugs: you have "coil on plug" ignition- no plug wires. You do have boots, inside those boots is a spring that connects the coil to the plug. These simply pull off, and IMO should be checked/cleaned/greased when changing plugs or encountering possible spark related running issues. The plugs themselves don't really last the 100k miles as promised. These are not hard to remove, but I would not worry about replacing until over 60k miles- or if you have any problems. When you do consider this- please ask us. We do recommend certain plugs for a reason other than advertising.

4) Cleaning the MAF: I'd do it every other oil change, and any time you experience a sudden drop in fuel economy or a change in how the vehicle is running. A can of spray MAF cleaner run about $8, and you'll get multiple uses out of it. The MAF is located below the air cleaner test button, pull the red slide straight back, then press on the clip to remove. It should remove without a struggle, if you have to struggle- you're doing something wrong. Then use a T15 torx screwdriver to remove the 2 screws that hold the MAF in place. It cannot be installed backwards, so don't worry about that. Cleaning is as simple as spraying in the 2 holes- just don't shove the straw in there so that you break the resistor! Shake, and allow to dry before running.

5) Fuel: Premium fuel is not required, but is much more cleaner/refined than low octane fuel. I suggest doing a cost per mile survey with your vehicle for at least 2 tanks of fuel each, and also trying all the easily accessible fuels in your area or route for 2 tanks. Eventually you'll come across the one that is most cost effective for your vehicle as it is right now. I do recommend one step colder spark plugs to prevent spark knock in these cars, however, if premium fuel is most cost effective in your experiment- then that's best for now. Sometime in the future when you swap plugs, you'll have to do the survey again.

These cars from 05+ are very low maintenance. No spark plug wires, but you do have replaceable boots. I've found those last 100k+ miles. The AT trans filter and fluid should be checked every oil change or sooner. I would not suggest changing the filter until you notice a funny smell from the fluid, or the fluid changes color. The maintenance specs recommend every 20k miles, but really, 50k is more appropriate with these transmissions. Most people don't change it until the transmission starts having problems at 100k+ miles. Ford has no choice but to design their vehicles for these people- believe that, people who maintain their vehicles don't usually have complaints. Please ignore the oil shop if they suggest flushing the transmission fluid for $100 or whatever they charge. Sometimes this causes problems, and is mostly unnecessary. Changing the filter changes over half the fluid, and usually returns the color to red. If the color remains brown after a filter change- then flushing might be worthwhile- but another filter change at a lower mileage interval would serve the transmission better IMO.
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Old 02-01-2011, 06:14 PM   #5
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Thanks, all! Great information! :) I think I will have the wife fill up on premium next tank. And we are currently looking for a place that does free inspections, since I'm not home.
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