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Old 01-05-2011, 03:36 AM   #1
rzimmerman30
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Car Vibration Problems

I have a 2007 Ford Focus SES with 67,000 miles on it (i'm pretty sure it's the 2.0). I bougth the car with 20,000 miles on it. The only issue I've ever had with it so far is it shakes while driving on the highway, but after 4 new tires and about 4 different balance/alignments its a bit better (still not great.) But my new issue is terrible vibration. It recently started about a week ago. It seems to be worse when its cold out (live in Wisconsin, it was about 5 degrees outside here last night). Ok, so when I'm in park/neutral and I have the diagnotstic screen up (where you hold the trip button while starting) I can monitor the RPMs. The RPMs stay at a constant 650-700. The shaking SEEMS to be the worst while the rpms are at their lowest. As soon as I give it some gas, the shaking completely stops. I took it to Autozone and asked one of the guys to check if there were any codes, and he said the test came back with no codes. He had me open the hood up, and felt the engine in park, then asked me to rev it up. He confirmed it smooths out while I give it gas. Is this a common problem? Could it be motor mount ( specifically passenger side under coolant tank?) The shaking has EVERYTHING under the hood shaking so bad, it is almost hard to see it as one clear image cause its all moving so quick. Vibrations can be felt very bad in steering wheel and driver side door (haven't felt passenger side door or anywhere else). About 90% of my driving is city driving, I live about 3 miles from work in the city so its a lot of short drives also. Any help/insights greatly appreciated


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Old 01-05-2011, 08:54 AM   #2
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That could be motor mounts. The passenger side mount is hard to check without removing it and the drivers mount is under the battery and can be checked much easier after the battery is removed and the third mount is under the car connecting the transmission to the subframe behind the engine. I'm thinking if the motor is shaking it might be the transmission mount but as I recently learned, if one mount is bad then all three need to be replaced. If you are a decent handyman then the job can be done in a couple hours for all three mounts. I did both driver and passenger mounts in 40 minutes and the lower mount in about 1 hour.

Check the stickies at the top of the forum page for DIY instructions.
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Old 01-05-2011, 10:22 AM   #3
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Posted via FF MobileWorse when cold IS one of the symptoms for motor mounts going, so things point that way though the mileage is a bit low.... has tune-up work been done? specifically plugs & filter? how about dry-gas, you need some occasionally in wintry climates to make sure you don`t get water problems... Just want to make sure there isn`t another minor issue B4 you spend on mounts.....
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Old 01-06-2011, 12:16 AM   #4
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I haven't had plugs done, and the thing on the air filter (where it shows like green and red) is all the way up to green so if that is accurate the air filter should still be good. When there was a bad spark plug on my 94 Pontiac Grand Prix, the RPMs would jump up and down, and it was almost an intermitent vibration like it would be vibrate, smooth, vibrate, smooth almost.

The vibration I'm experiencing now, today at a stop light on the way to work, I coudlnt even see anything in the driver side mirror it was vibrating so hard. What's crazy(!!!) is that the passenger side mirror wasnt moving an inch! It's like all the vibration is going to the steering wheel and driver side door. If i take my hand off the steering wheel and shifter (I hold it while driving even thought it's automatic), sometimes I woudln't even know the car is shaking. Every once in a while I can feel the vibration through the floor/pedals. I know it's low miles, and I dont know if this would speed it up, but for almost 2 years my car has shaken pretty bad while driving on the highway. Maybe that could have accelerated the deteriotion of something? I'm starting to notice now I can feel the vibration while driving, althougth not as bad as when idling, but it is there. I may just be tuned in more and focusing on it where as before I wasn't. But just want to get as much information as I can to you. Is there something I'm looking for to see if the motor mounts are bad? And how much experience would it take to replace them on my own? I consider myself fairly decent at do it yourself projects =)
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Old 01-06-2011, 12:55 AM   #5
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I'd have to probably say Passenger Side Motor Mount, had the same symptoms on my '00 recently. Replaced the Motor Mount with a good one from Rock Auto and cured it right up. There are How-To's in the How-To archived linked on the main forum page that walk you thru it, it's pretty easy, took me about 2 hours but thats because I cleaned up under the mount and black mount support while I had the chance.
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Old 01-06-2011, 12:04 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rzimmerman30 View Post
Is there something I'm looking for to see if the motor mounts are bad? And how much experience would it take to replace them on my own? I consider myself fairly decent at do it yourself projects =)
See my post above
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Old 01-06-2011, 06:14 PM   #7
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Been going through the same thing with my 2007.
I thought that the cause of the vibration was that my car was idling too low, but after the button-hold thing with the odo I found that tach needle is showing about 200RPM less than actual. Idle is essentially normal.

I then replaced the dogbone and hydraulic mount and still had problems with vibration. It was only when I replaced the trans mount that the vibration decreased to the point of being tolerable.
Yet I have noticed that since it has gotten so bitter cold, the vibrations are still noticable until the engine warms up to running temperature and makes the rubber in the new mounts more pliable.
When this happens, the vibrations at idle go away completely.

I would invest in all 3 new motor mounts.
You can get the dogbone and trans mount from aftermarket but do yourself righteous and spend the bucks to get the hydraulic (RH) mount from Ford as the aftermarket ones for the 2005-2007 2.0 Focus are just junk.
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Old 01-07-2011, 10:51 AM   #8
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I had a problem like that and just turned up the idle speed. Adjust it manually like we used to in the old days. As for shaking on the higway... If there was a problem in your front end then they shouldn't be able to align your car.
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Old 01-10-2011, 05:15 PM   #9
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Now my car is seeming to shift rather hard into 2nd gear, it almost seems like it hesitates or takes a seconds longer then it should sometimes. It also seems like I dont have as much power while I'm in 1st gear. Once I'm on the highway, it feels normal. Are these all symptoms of a motor mount, or is my car severely screwed up? My car used to be so smooth it took me a while to get used to because I thought the car wasn't even running while at a stop light. I can't take my car in to get fixed until I can afford it next month, and I'm starting to be scared to continue driving it. Tracksentinel, did you experience any of these symptoms before replacing all of your motor mounts?
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Old 01-10-2011, 08:46 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rzimmerman30 View Post
Now my car is seeming to shift rather hard into 2nd gear, it almost seems like it hesitates or takes a seconds longer then it should sometimes. It also seems like I dont have as much power while I'm in 1st gear. Once I'm on the highway, it feels normal. Are these all symptoms of a motor mount, or is my car severely screwed up? My car used to be so smooth it took me a while to get used to because I thought the car wasn't even running while at a stop light. I can't take my car in to get fixed until I can afford it next month, and I'm starting to be scared to continue driving it. Tracksentinel, did you experience any of these symptoms before replacing all of your motor mounts?
I had suspected the transmission at one point but was able to quickly rule it out. Winter temperatures can and do affect performance and fuel milage. The first few times an automatic trans upshifts when it's cold out can have a noticable delay. My `95 Taurus SHO will not upshift when cold until 2800RPM.

All you need to change those mounts yourself is a socket set and a floor jack.
The RH hydraulic mount can be had from Ford for around $100. The dog bone and trans mounts from Auto Zone for about $15 and $25 respectively. Your car has almost exactly the same miles on it as mine. Spooky...
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