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Old 11-16-2011, 12:25 PM   #61
Notorious0ne
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Yeah i tried to get it put in the "how to" cause the one in there doesnt have pictures or as descriptive. So yeah.
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Old 11-16-2011, 12:54 PM   #62
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Glazing over the thread I saw some people have issues with vacuum bleeding....

The factory manual (at least for the SVT) recommends a pressure bleed where fluid is removed from the resevoir and forced up through the system from the bleeder. Considering the difficulty in bleeding a slave cylinder that is also a throwout bearing I'd consider it a necessary practice to bleed the clutch in this manner.
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Old 11-16-2011, 01:18 PM   #63
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I didnt use the vacuum bleeder and everything worked out fine for me.
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Old 11-16-2011, 02:03 PM   #64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Notorious0ne View Post
I didnt use the vacuum bleeder and everything worked out fine for me.
You used a syringe to "pressure bleed" it, right?

A conventional bleed (like brakes) OR a pressure bleed seems to be the key to burping these clutch systems. There are several cases of unsucessful vacuum bleeding on this board
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Old 11-16-2011, 08:14 PM   #65
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I sat in the car pumped the clutch and had my dad loosen the bleeder to let the air out.
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Old 11-26-2011, 06:43 PM   #66
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thanksabuncha

Wow guys, thanks for all the comments and support. Those pics are awesome. Hope you can get it into the archive.

Husband finished the job today, I think it took him about 6 hours total. But 2 of those hours were trying to figure out how to get those clips off. With the info I gave him from this site, it was just minutes later he had them off. He didn't fold back the wheel well cover but thought about it. Managed to do it without.

Just a comment, the Ford dealer wanted $127 for the part and a 3 day wait. But CarQuest had it in stock for $65.

My car has 93K on it. Had to have the power steering sensor and pump done about 500 miles ago. Also replaced the front right axle at about 80K.

I'll be reading on this site for more ideas. I might want to tune it up a little, make it go faster?

Thanks again.
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Old 12-05-2011, 09:52 AM   #67
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Many thanks to those posting all the info.

Son and I did this over the weekend on a 2003 ZX3 - not too bad. It was his first car repair project other than really simple stuff so he got a taste of how this stuff goes. Probably 3 to 4 hours and that included a trip to AutoZone for torx bit to remove the seat bolts and a new valve cover gasket as we noticed that was leaking once we got started.

We found removing the wheel liners for access wasnt much help in our case - we did fine removing the air box/battery box which had to come out anyway to bleed the thing.

Putting the pins back into the new master cylinder after the lines were inserted was impossible we discovered. We probably wasted at least 30 mins before we put the pins in first and then inserted the lines until they clicked into place. Doh.

We bled with a mityvac and then finished off doing it manually. We went through a lot of fluid like everyone says.

Not a difficult project but sort of a pain due to the cramped quarters and tight spaces.

We're new to the Ford Focus having only had the car for a month and it was intended as my son's, but I have to say I really love this little car a lot.
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Old 12-05-2011, 01:40 PM   #68
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Well im happy to help! I didn't remove the wheel liner either it was easier for me to just move the fuse box.
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Old 02-14-2012, 05:13 PM   #69
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Moving the Fuse Box

Thank you for the guide, it is excellent. However, I am having a problem and judging by the lack of comments regarding it, this problem may be unique to me. I have gotten to the step where the fuse box needs to be moved and I have spent the last hour trying to move it with no success. I have cut the tape and the zip tie off the wires, removed all the fuses and relays and released the clips on the sides of the box. Still no luck. Does anyone have any suggestions? Am I missing something? I have searched the web for answers and haven't had any luck yet. I appreciate any help you could give me.
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Old 02-15-2012, 01:07 PM   #70
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My fuse box only had two clips on either side and it was snug in place because of the stiff wires but it should just slide out.
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