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Old 12-01-2014, 05:43 PM   #1
RAD2000
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looking for some hints, tips ,tricks on clutch removal

Just getting started on my clutch replacement on my 2003 zx3 2.3
Stage 1 clutch on the way from fswerks...
Getting a head start before it gets here, car is on jackstands,battery box removed engine mount removed and holycrap there are all kinds of wires and connections in the way..
Anyone know exactly how many bolts need to be removed from bellhousing ?
Does engine need to be lowered to remove all bolts?
Shift linkage need to be held in place after cables removed?
Any tips on getting the hard to reach bolts out?

I have bookmarked numerous links from this forum, but still can't find all the answers

Please message me or comment


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Old 12-01-2014, 06:22 PM   #2
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Put it high up on jackstands, drop the subframe and transmission.
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Old 12-01-2014, 07:53 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by freemind View Post
Put it high up on jackstands, drop the subframe and transmission.


+1 God, I hate clutch jobs
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Old 12-01-2014, 08:10 PM   #4
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Come on guys drop the subframe really?
Mandroid what do you hate about clutch jobs?
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Old 12-01-2014, 08:16 PM   #5
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I dropped the subframe on my corolla (94) when I did the clutch. That was the easiest way to do it on that car. I honestly haven't looked on the focus so I shouldn't have jumped to that conclusion. I hate clutch jobs on front wheel drive cars because its a pain in the ass to undo all those connections and deal with the axels.
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Old 12-01-2014, 08:30 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RAD2000 View Post
Come on guys drop the subframe really?
Exactly what I was thinking. What subframe is in the way lol
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Old 12-01-2014, 09:04 PM   #7
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Take a look at good old Eric. Probably won't solve everything for you but you can always get some helpful tips - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1eoUL347ce0
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Old 12-01-2014, 10:30 PM   #8
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I love that guy!!!
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Old 12-02-2014, 05:54 AM   #9
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Yep I watched ericthecarguys videos all four 30 min videos...
But was a different transmission..
I am still trying to gather as much info as possible
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Old 12-02-2014, 07:34 AM   #10
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Yoooo. I did my clutch twice without dropping the subframe at all. It is difficult but totally doable. The tricks I can remember are: you need to keep the bolts laid out and labeled around the bell housing, 'cause a bunch are different lengths.

Make sure you disconnect the little wire harness behind the exhaust manifold (it is tricky to find). Also, when you get everything bacm together you have to remember to hook it back up or your car will not run til you do. Ask me how I know about that: I tried for an hour to get my car to run before I realized that stupid harness wasn't reattatched. You don't need to remove your starter, only take the bolts out. It'll just chill where it is.

I found that with the subframe in place you need 2 floor jacks (real ones) for JUST THE TRANNY, and one for the motor. Dont waste your money on a tranny jack like I did it'll be a waste of money. You need 3 jacks. One for motor, 2 for the tranny.

Reason you need two for tranny is: the tranny has to be 'rolled' out of the engine bay as you drop it, so you wanna approach from the driver's side with them side by side, and as you drop it, the area closest to the firewall will force yku to 'roll' the tranny out by dropping the more forward jack more than the jack beside it that is closer to the firewall. The tranny will 'roll' forward and drop the rest the way out. It will NOT come out without doing that way unless you take a LOT more stuff off of the car.

After you get the bell n motor seperated (which you will want a LONG thick pry bar to seperate: took TEN EXTRA hours without one! when I did it the first time with a crowbar, the tranny was on the ground in 5 hrs from start.) Reason being: you need the prybar on the firewall side of the seam to seperate on both side at the same time, the as you pull them apart, you can't 'walk' the bellhousing out, over, and ACROSS the clutch without that prybar.

When I tried for 10 EXTRA HOURS without it, the motor and tranny will just clam shut back together and you'll never get them seperated 'enough' to bind the edge of the bellhousing against the clutch so that it'll stay apart and you can let go and resituate yourself. I hope that makes sense.

Also go rent a crows foot axle puller! I am REALLY good with hand tools and doing jobs like this aint shit for me, but I STILL almost trashed the tranny seal around the axle trying to pop it's C-clil loose. After ANOTHER wasted hour, I gave in to go rent the crow foot and slide hammer. You must have that or you will trash you tranny seal where the axle goes into the tranny if you just try and pry it loose. And DO NOT pull on the axles, or you will be buying new ones.

So before you start GO GET a long ass pry bar, rent a crows foot and slide hammer from az (30 bucks til you return it), I bought a little box witb sections in it for 2 bucks and used tape on the lid to label where each bell housing bolt went, you need 3 floor jacks and two stands, but I recommend doubling up the stands side by side on both sides. One jack on each side with a stand on each side SHARING the weight. I DO NOT recommend being under a car with only one jack or stand on each side. DOUBLE UP. Hit me up if you run into ANY problem. I know every little step about that gig. Just did it several weeks ago for the 2nd time.
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