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Old 10-13-2010, 01:37 PM   #1
Eiron
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Front motor mount decision help, please

2002 Wagon, 140k mi -

I took a look at the front hydraulic motor mount last nite & it's still filled with fluid. I'm pretty sure that the two other mounts are shot, as there's about 1/2" of engine movement when I shift from R to D. It's possible that the hydro mount was replaced sometime, but I have no repair history prior to 2 mos ago.

If I'm buying new motor mounts, should I go ahead & replace the hydro mount as well, even if it's still full of goo?


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Old 10-13-2010, 04:19 PM   #2
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Usually the rear "tranny" mount is the one that really goes. Replace the other two and see how it is after that...

I have 170K and have only replaced the lower mount. It was shot at 90K. Mines a wagon too
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Old 10-18-2010, 12:21 AM   #3
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Hi viney266,

Are you talking about the "dogbone" mount at the rear of the engine compartment, or the tranny "pad" mount at the rear of the engine (driver-side engine compartment)?

If you mean the tranny pad mount, how easy is that one to replace? (I haven't found its exact location yet.)
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Old 10-18-2010, 12:26 AM   #4
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tranny mount isn't bad....... it's right under the air box though.

so are you just pretty sure or 100% sure? Lol.

but yes the lower mount is the "dogbone" you speak of :). that's not TOO bad to do either, but I had my fun with mine.
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Old 10-18-2010, 04:35 AM   #5
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Local parts stores want like $125 for the front hydro mount. You can get all 3, manufactured by Anchor which is the same as is sold at most chain parts stores, for less than that from Rock Auto online. We have a RA discount, look for a thread on it in the Hot Deals, and Shopping Fanatics forum down near the bottom of the forum list in Non-Focus Discussions.

Once you've entered your car's information, follow this outline to locate all 3 mounts.

Engine: Motor Mount = front engine, passenger side, hydra mount
Engine: Torque Strut Mount = lower engine, dog bone, rear mount
Transmission: Transmission mount = rear engine, driver's side mount

Just pay attention to shipping and try to have all parts shipped from the same location, and you should be able to purchase all 3 mounts for less than $120.
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Old 10-18-2010, 10:05 AM   #6
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mikebontoft, thanks, I'll look for it next weekend. I say pretty sure only because I don't know what I'm supposed to be seeing for engine movement. I know the dogbone is the lower one, but which one's the "rear" one?

wntwn, So you're calling the dogbone the rear mount? As in, "physical location in the engine bay," & not relative to the actual location on the engine.
Yes, I was all ready to buy the set from rockauto over the weekend; it was going to be about $75 for all three, with shipping. But I waited 'cuz the hydro mount is still filled with fluid & I didn't want to buy one & have it sit around indefinitely.
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Old 10-18-2010, 11:31 AM   #7
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I'm on my third front/passenger/hydraulic mount in 130k+ miles.

Dogbone/rear/torque/anti-roll mount was still good and intact but I replaced it at the same time (winter's coming) and it was full of sand and gravel - (supposedly kills the hydraulic mount).

If you have an automatic transaxle and are replacing the two engine mounts, hydraulic and dogbone, do the dogbone first. You don't have to remove the bracket the dogbone attaches to - just remove the two bolts that hold the dogbone in place. Then 'rotate' the whole power train assembly forward to remove the dogbone mount. I'm no body builder - it rotates easily and you'll see what the anti roll mounts function is. Slightly more effort required to install the dogbone mount but not much - push, pull.... Doing the dogbone first will keep the stress off the 'new about-to-be replaced hydraulic mount.

Also keep track of which bolt goes where when you take the two bolts out of the dogbone. One is longer than the other and looks like it comes close to hitting the rack when installed. (Let me know if the shorter one was correct for the frame/rack location ! For some reason I thought the longer one went in there but put the shorter one in because of clearance ??).

And - Check Rock Auto's warranty info for the Anchor mounts to be sure it's what you want. They offer an alternative (solid rubber) and hydraulic mount for the front passenger mount. Rock auto has a 1 year warranty. Other part stores offer life-time to 90 days.
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Old 10-18-2010, 12:03 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by a_2000_se View Post
I'm on my third front/passenger/hydraulic mount in 130k+ miles.

Dogbone/rear/torque/anti-roll mount was still good and intact but I replaced it at the same time (winter's coming) and it was full of sand and gravel - (supposedly kills the hydraulic mount). ...
Are you replacing the hydro mount 'cuz it's losing fluid, or can these "go bad" while still fluid-filled?
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Old 10-18-2010, 02:12 PM   #9
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Posted via FF MobileFWIW - many have replaced the fluid filled mount & only seen wear/damage AFTER removal, looked fine to them B4 taking it off.... Vibration or excessive engine movement was the only clue it was a problem `till it was taken off & fell apart in their hands....
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Old 10-18-2010, 02:18 PM   #10
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Well a few weeks ago i had to replace my pass. side hydraulic mount because the car was vibrating like crazy, and the old mount still had fluid in it when you would shake it, but it was still bad, popped the new one in, vibrations gone ;)
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