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Old 09-18-2010, 12:33 PM   #1
arlenn
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fuse between alt. and battery?

After having my alternator rebuild about 2 months ago... i believe it has failed again; however, no alternator light this time, just no power, battery is dead. (pretty neat driving and finding in sequence your radio stop, abs light come on, dash go dead, headlights fail, then ignition/fuel pump fail).

is there a fuse or something between the alternator and the battery?


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Old 09-18-2010, 03:01 PM   #2
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Charging circuit wiring diagram I have shows no in line fuse. Only fuse in circuit is fuse 10 under the hood (10A) listed as "battery voltage sensor, diagnostic plug".
PM me if you want to see wiring diagram.
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Old 09-18-2010, 04:15 PM   #3
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I think there is a fusible link embedded in the wire. But I think if it goes one has to buy a complete harness.

Maybe it is this:
See the large wire(s) that is crimped to the positive battery clamp (negative battery clamp too)
What if that crimp was bad?
Get a voltmeter and check for any voltage between the battery clamp and that large wire(s) (just past the crimp).
If you do not know how to use a voltmeter...
Go on YouTube type in... voltmeter, battery , alternator
You will find various videos of varying quality instructing how to use a voltmeter, also known as a multimeter.
Hint get a 9 volt battery and measure that with your voltmeter so you know how the display should look.
What kind?

Rock bottom cheap! Harbor Freight will occasionally have their voltmeter on sale for less than $2.00
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Old 09-18-2010, 05:00 PM   #4
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there IS a fuse between the alternator and the battery!!!!!!
its not replacable though. an entire new cable is required. its 75a

the fuse is between the starter and the alternator. the cable that comes off the battery goes to the starter and continues to the alternator and is one solid cable (with the exception of the inline fuse)
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Old 09-18-2010, 05:27 PM   #5
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There is conductivity between alt and battery post. so that is not the problem, dead alternator.

fun trip home. "jump" about 30min... drive... "jump" for about 40min... drive... did get home though.
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Old 09-18-2010, 06:26 PM   #6
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Wow. 75A is a big fuse. Maybe the fact it's not replaceable without the cable is why they leave it off the wiring diagram.

Disappointing that the alt only lasted 2 months...
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Old 09-18-2010, 09:18 PM   #7
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176000 miles 2004 Zetec wagon
I am on my 3rd alternator
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Old 09-19-2010, 08:40 AM   #8
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what brand alternators you guys getting??

sounds to me that the aftermarket provides nothing but crap.

im on my second FORD alternator and its the shit! i believe if i would have never put the AEM Tru-Power pulley on the alternator, it would still be running good. but overdriving the alternator is a bad bad thing.
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Old 09-19-2010, 09:38 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scrammer View Post
i believe if i would have never put the AEM Tru-Power pulley on the alternator, it would still be running good. but overdriving the alternator is a bad bad thing.
I've always wondered what people are thinking when they put those under or over pulleys on their daily driver vehicles. We were trying to get a jump off a hot rod Prelude, and it nearly caused his engine to die when we tried starting. I whipped out my tester and he only had 12.5v at idle. Yay under drive pulleys.

You put an overdrive pulley designed to work with the crank under drive pulley on with a stock crank pulley in order to get more juice didn't you?
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Old 09-19-2010, 01:11 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scrammer View Post
what brand alternators you guys getting??
I had my OEM remaned. it was about 1/2 the cost of new. I suspect the regulator was an inferior component. As it now makes 0 volts. It never issued an alt light; didn't get much warning on this one.
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