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Old 09-15-2010, 06:37 PM   #11
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I havent had to retorque any myself, but theres always the chance it could need doing.

You may have stretched the bolts or the threads on the block..... there are several things that could cause it.
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Old 09-15-2010, 11:28 PM   #12
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In the interests of full disclosure, I'd point out I have no personal experience of how much the Cometic gasket will relax on the Zetec.

However hopefully its just relaxation you are seeing. I'd retorque to the ARP spec with the engine cold and see if that fixes your leak.

I assume you did you lubricate the threads on the studs/nuts when you fitted them ? The choice of lubricant is really important, as is the thread quality and surface finish.

Other reasons for leakage could be:

Defective gasket
Cracked block/head
Gasket fitted incorrectly or out of position
Remachined surfaces uneven or having excess runout (i.e not flat enough)
Remachined surfaces too rough or too smooth (gaskets are happiest with a specific roughness, typically in the range 125 to 250 micro inch)
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Old 09-16-2010, 07:39 AM   #13
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I did use the ARP lube when it was assembled, but I don't have any now. So, I was thinking of just using motor oil. Is using the moly lube that big of a deal?

I took the torque wrench to the stud nuts last night and all but three of the nuts moved at 60ft-lb. Although the ARP person said to back them out 1/4 - 1/2 a turn, and then re-torque them. So, once I figure out what lube I'm going to use I will do the re-torquing.
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Old 09-16-2010, 02:08 PM   #14
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I looked at the ARP website and they offer something called ARP Ultra-Torque Fastener Assembly Lubricant™

http://arp-bolts.com/UT_detail.pdf

Of course their brochure makes it look super good, but the graphs they provide do make a good point. Different lubricants will yield different preloads for the same torque.

Moly is normally a decent choice, although there are others based on graphite, copper or PTFE that can work well. I'm not sure what the ARP Ultra lubricant is based on but my guess is PTFE.

Personally I'd stick with the lube ARP provided to you.
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Old 09-14-2011, 04:22 PM   #15
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Well, its been around a year since I re-torqued my ARP studs using the ARP Lube, and my coolant leak is back. So, the plus side is that the re-torque fixed the leak for one year. I've been running 13-18 psi boost for about 1,000 miles in that time.

Its very interesting that I don't have any oil in my coolant reservoir and I don't have any coolant in my oil. The leak occurs even after the engine is off. After having the starting issues again I decided to pull the plugs after the car sat for a day and there was a "pool" of coolant in cylinders 2 and 4. Apparently my coolant system is getting pressurized and leaking into the cylinders after the engine is turned off. Since water is non-compressible I would imagine there could be some catastrophic issues if I have been starting my car when there is coolant in the cylinders.

Here is a list of things that I wonder if they could be part of the issue:
1. I have a cometic head gasket that is 0.014" thicker than stock. Could that require a higher head stud torque.
2. I can hear coolant boiling in the turbo after the engine is off.
3. My large log manifold seems to put out a lot of heat.

If anyone has any advise please let me know. At this point I imagine I'm going to have to pull the head off.
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Old 09-14-2011, 04:55 PM   #16
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I have no personal experience with cometic but it seems like several people have had probs with that gasket.
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Old 09-14-2011, 05:27 PM   #17
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I would pull it apart check the deck and head for flatness. If all good throw a new gasket on and torque to the right specs the first time.
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Old 09-14-2011, 05:54 PM   #18
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Check for a clogged radiator or stuck thermostat as well. While the engine running are there any hoses inflating or getting sucked (before and after the rad)?
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Old 09-14-2011, 09:12 PM   #19
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If you have a turbo on this car I would loook at the tune , fuel and timing

Head gaskets dont last a year then blow , if you had a head or block issue or cometic issue it wouldnt of lasted a year

Whats you air fuel under boost , what is your knock sensor doing , how much total timing is the engine seeing ,

Thats where I would start

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Old 09-14-2011, 10:05 PM   #20
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I just went through the same exact thing you did on my engine just a month ago. Use the ARP assembly lube. Get a stock Ford head gasket. My cometic did the same thing on #4 . Pressurized the coolant tank. Once you get to the torque specified. Let the engine set for a little while and retorque again .I went over mine 3 times at 65ftlbs. (IIRC) and each time it went just a fraction more until it clicked. Seems it continues to crush as soon as pressure is applied. And there were 3 steps to get to final torque . Mine has been on for awhile now, and regularly gets flogged to 22 -23 psi. OH and the studs are installed hand tight into the block. Also if you have used your torque wrench for a while, get it calibrated. You wouldnt believe how far off they can be. I had mine checked and it was good.
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