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Old 08-04-2010, 02:25 PM   #1
zredmon
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2000 Focus (Zetec) Will not start after replaceing the head gasket.

About 6 months ago I blew the head gasket in my 2000 ford focus, It has the Zetec engine. It took me about two months to take off the head, due to time issues. Once I had the head off, I had it sent to my local machine shop. They ported and polished it as well as milled and a valve job. Putting everything back together, I removed the EGR and AC. I also added the focus sport 4-1 race headers and race exhaust with the flex pipe.

The car was apart for about 6 months. When I put it back together, it will not start. Timing is dead on. I have checked this many many times. It turns over great but will not fire at all. It was apart for about 6 months. I live in Indiana and it has been a little hot lately.

Any ideas would be great.

Thank you,
Zach


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Old 08-04-2010, 03:04 PM   #2
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Ok its been apart for six months are you 100% sure its all put back right. It could be one wire wrong. Have you checked to see if you are yetting fuel, are you getting spark. These are a must. Next does it crank over real fast what I mean does the motor crank faster than it did before if so do a compression check.
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Old 08-04-2010, 04:37 PM   #3
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if you are sure sure you got the cam timing correct, i would say its something silly that did not get reconnected.
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Old 08-04-2010, 04:40 PM   #4
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I have checked all the wires and they are all atached corectly, Yes I am getting spark and yes I have fuel preasure. When it cranks it is trunning at your normal cranking speed. When I was setting the timeing belt and trunning the engine by hand I could feel the pistions compressing air. As far as putting it back together I have the Ford Shop Manual (2 2.5 inch books and a 1.5 inch book) The only spare parts I have are for the AC that I took out and EGR.

I'm at a lost LOL, I do appreciate the help. :)
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Old 08-04-2010, 05:14 PM   #5
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what about pulling the injectors from the bores, and see if they are delivering anything?
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Old 08-04-2010, 05:28 PM   #6
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Before you go doing all that- go through this checklist.

1) Do you hear the fuel pump prime when the key goes from OFF to ON. As far as the injectors working, you'll smell that from the exhaust.

2) Have you checked the spark plug wires to be sure spark is getting through those? You can use either the spark testing light, or old timing light.

3) You can bust all the naysayers of your abilities by double checking compression if you haven't found anything else wrong at this point.

Not to be a jerk, but to be blunt: if everything was done right and connected right, then it would be running. It's time to start double checking yourself as if you'd never worked on this car before. That's why I'm suggesting the typical "crank but no start" tests. That should lead you in the right direction. I've been there before on other vehicles, and that's what led me to the problem, and got the car running. Just pretend like you haven't been working on it and test what you've done like someone dropped it off with a sob story.

Oh, and if the fuel pump isn't running, then first check the inertia switch.
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Old 08-04-2010, 05:48 PM   #7
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Fuel pump comes on and I have checked for spark, I used a spark testing light. I do smell fuel from the exhaust, and I know I am getting pressure because if I disconnect the fuel rail fuel spits out.

I will triple check all my sensors and all my wiring. It is possible that I missed something.
On that note, I did have to extend my O2 sensor wires, if something is messed up there would that cause it not to fire?

Timing is dead on, I checked this about 5 times last night.

As far as a compression test, that may be on the next to do list.

And whynotthinkwhynot, what was the issue with your car?
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Old 08-04-2010, 06:42 PM   #8
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It wasn't a Focus, it was a GM 2.8 harmonic balancer puller eating POS, and we had swapped up the timing gear with a V8 timing gear- that does not work. The compression test proved something was screwed, and a screwdriver showed that the timing marks weren't lined up properly. Then it was as simple as 1+1=2 after we put the other cam gear up on the engine. There was a lot of wrenching and head scratching between the compression test and the final confirmation. Until then, I'd never noticed the difference- it all made sense in retrospect.

I can tell you that a TBI V8 will run on an OBD1 TBI V6 computer- the torque converter kicks in very low, and the tranny shifts are super econo mode.

Did you mark you cams and double check the lobe position at TDC? I know you've written that you checked timing again and again, but it is possible to swap up the exhaust and intake cams. Plus, if you have spark and fuel, then the only other problem causer would be compression unless your MAF is disconnected. I think even if the ECU fuse was blown you'd get ------- across the odometer, and wouldn't get fuel period.

Oh, not that it would do this, but how's the ground connection to the head/intake manifold? Actually I think someone said that one goes to the passenger motor mount.

Have you tried starting fluid? After the compression test of course.
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Old 08-04-2010, 07:07 PM   #9
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As far as the timeing, I have checked it by using fords specialty tool and a timeing pin that goes into the block. It is possible that the intake and exsaust are reversed. If thats the case I'm going to feel like and idiot.

Is there an easy way to tell the diffrence between the two?
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Old 08-04-2010, 09:08 PM   #10
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Not that I know of. I'm sure the cam lobes are different sizes, but you'd need a caliper and specs I don't have to give at the moment. Any service manual should give specs if you have a caliper.

The firing order is 1342 so you should be able to figure it out from there. The exhaust cam should be at a close to 45 degree angle towards the center as well as the intake on the other side on #1. #3 intake valve should be open, or closing as that cylinder should be at the bottom of it's intake stroke.

Here's another quick question- did you mark the position and location of the cam caps before removal? Those have to be facing the same direction, and be in the same position as before- otherwise you're SOL. If that's screwed up, you should figure that out before you try to fire it again or risk cylinder head death in short order. The resulting drag on the cam might be enough to keep it from running, jump teeth on the belt, shred the belt or other nasty stuff.

That's a much bigger boo boo than swapping the cams around, or having a cam 180 out. I've always sort of thought that there can be issues with the cam installation in those engines because you're only using a little bar to line the 2 up, and I've wondered if you could be 180 out on both. It's been a while since I had my valve cover off, maybe that slot is offset so that mistake isn't possible. I always figured I'd just note (yay camera phones) the position of the cams before removing as a double check if the timing belt/chain wasn't KOed.
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