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Old 08-01-2010, 02:23 AM   #1
cztexas
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Solve my focus vibration problem - experience and tips

It's my turn to write some thing. Hope this can help others and save $$$ from either dealer or whereevery you take your focus

My car is 2001 Focus SOHC. Bought with 52K miles. Now is 82K miles. About two years before, the vibration or noise begin. I have those problems: rough idle on cold start; get better after warmer; noticable vibrations when stop at the signals (put in Drive shift). Recently I just repaired my power windows, which give me much confidence. So I want to solve my vibration problem.

I googled and read, which I put almost a whole week to search it. I hope I can put the same enthusiasm in my college study too, which I could not I belived the motor mounts will be the culprit.

Then I bought the parts, changed them, and problem is gone. There are still some vibrations when I stop at the signals with D, but it is much better.
Here comes my tips:

1. Passenger side motor mount is the chief culprit. I changed this one, all the problem is gone. But from what I googled, someone suggested, if you want to change motor mount, change all of them. Since I plan to DIY, which will save much money for the labers, I just want to change all of them.
2. I first buy an aftermarket pass side mount (which I just paid less than $30 after coupon, really a gooooood deal), But again, from what I googled, someone complained that the aftermarket one is not as reliable as OEM's. Some died after a few months. So I switched to stock one. I got one from dealer for about $100. There are some noticeable difference between these two mounts. If you open the cap of the mount, the aftermarket one (Anchor Mount) is very firm. But the OEM one is squishly or jelly whatever you called. It feels very soft. However my old one is soft also. Basically, you cannot tell whether your old one is bad or not. I can find the difference when compare them by puting them together. The older one is some shorter than the new one. Also, after taking the older one out from the car, the soft top become hard. I guess the weight of engine sqeeze the oil to the top.
3. After removing all the bolts, the passenger side mount still cannot be taken out of the engine. I lifted the jack a bit higher, which may help to take your mount out.
4. I also changed the driver side mount. All the mounts come from dealer. I noticed the engine in fact is a bit lower when used the older mounts, which means the olders are going. I lifter much higher so that I can re-place the bolts.
5. My next step is change the last mount -- dogbone. I will update the post if I got new feelings.
6. Someone recommened the performance mounts, like VF. They are good. But before you take any action, you must know what VF will bring to you. Their mount should be some kind of harder than stock one. Some feedbacks have show it may add vibration, which is certainly acceptable (definitely not as same as bad mount if you have). So if you want to eliminat the vib, do not use those. My understanding is that VF will give you better performance, but OEM ones could be better for the vibration problem.

Contact me if you have any question. My email: cztexas AT gmail DOT com


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Old 08-01-2010, 10:24 AM   #2
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We've found that if you're going to use performance mounts- you should replace all of the mounts. That being said, a lot of people have performance dog-bone (lower) mounts without changing anything else.

The aftermarket, solid feeling, I'm assuming rubber, front engine mount is interesting. I wondered if something like that would come about eventually as aftermarket manufacturers kept getting parts back under warranty. I figured they would ditch the fluid filled design and simply go to a solid rubber. The fluid filled mount is simply more comfortable on the driver, but by the time you're replacing a mount- I seriously doubt that any owner would care.
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Old 08-01-2010, 11:27 AM   #3
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Yes, most of people only change the dogbone. In fact the added vibration is only can be found under 1000 rpm, which is in idle.

Even the aftermarket one changed too the solid rubber, there are indeed some users keep changing their mounts year by year and then finally they switched to stock one. Good thing is that all the aftermarket ones provide life-time warranty~~~
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Old 08-01-2010, 11:40 AM   #4
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IMO, those people are just picky. My front engine mount has been bad for a long time, and now- thanks to you- I'm considering checking around to see what the price is for a solid rubber replacement. I could care less about a little vibration in an economy DD, but there are Ford customers who will rant and rave if the car doesn't behave exactly like a BMW or Mercedes. That's likely where the fluid mount came from originally. We have these same people to thank for OP gauges that are operated by a switch with a resistor in the dash wiring to make it appear that OP never changes. It's amazing that there were so many people who didn't know that OP drops slightly at idle. Duh. I'll bet that had a lot to do with GM getting rid of OP gauges completely as well.

BTW, if you have one of those old Rangers, Explorers, Aerostars, or F series trucks- it's an easy fix to make your OP actually work like it should.
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Old 08-02-2010, 03:42 AM   #5
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Hmmm... Similar problem to what I have, but some things are different. My car shakes only when accelerating. On idle or when I slow down and I down shift everything is fine. Press the gas pedal and car starting to shake above 2000rpm.

I've replaced all 3 mounts and it was fine for a day. The dogbone was either faulty or something causes it to break. Now I ordered new one from CFM. If that doesn't help my car...I'm out of ideas...
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Old 12-31-2011, 12:42 AM   #6
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My focus had similar vibrating problems as everyone else has said. Once I put the car in drive/reverse with the foot brake on there is a heavy vibrating that occurs on the passenger side. Once I accelerate however it disappears. Then it returns when I begin braking and approach an intersection. My mechanic said that my motor mounts needed replacing so I did that this past week. I replace the passenger side one but the vibrating did not go away. I'm stumped as to what could still be causing the vibrating especially since I thought I had the problem pinpointed. Any thoughts what could still be doing this? Another mount? A neighbor of mine thought I should replace the spark plugs to make sure they weren't causing the problem but I don't see how they could be.

I appreciate any advice, thanks!
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Old 12-31-2011, 05:30 AM   #7
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Depending on the mileage that are on your plugs, that could make a difference.
I've found that only the OEM mounts will do for me. I've tried the aftermarket and just was not happy.
Did you replace all the mounts or just the pass side?
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Old 12-31-2011, 08:40 AM   #8
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Al-

The only mount I replaced was the passenger side one that is accessable by moving the coolant reservior. It was relatively easy once I got the rusted bolts off. I was told by the mechanic that it was the one that needed to be replaced. Where are the other mounts located? I keep thinking that based on where the vibration is coming from that its stemming from the passenger side one, but I'm not expert. I bought the mount from Carquest and I'm not sure if it is the OEM version or an aftermarket version, although it was about $55 and looked exactly like the one I removed. It came in just a Carquest box.
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Old 12-31-2011, 12:36 PM   #9
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That is aftermarket.
The trans mount is just under the air box. If you loosen the clamp at the throttle body, unplug the MAF sensor connector, and unhook the breather tube. You should be able to wiggle and pull the airbox up and out.
I strongly recomend using OEM. My aftermarket mounts were bad after 3k miles. I have the lifetime replacements sitting in a box in my garage.
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