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Old 05-23-2010, 09:58 PM   #1
nardvark
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Replacing duratec passenger motor mount

OK, I've seen some write-ups for the Zetecs, and for aftermarket mounts, but nothing for replacing my busted duratec (2.0 with ATX) passenger side motor mount with a new OEM one.

What I'm looking for is confirmation on some details of the installation. I found these bolt torque specs (in ft-lbs) from here http://www.focusfanatics.com/forum/s...t+torque+specs

Motor mount nuts 66
Motor mount bracket bolts 35

I'm assuming these are dry, and should be modified if I use blue loctite? Or are these the wet specs?

I plan on using a low-profile floor jack to support the engine, and probably a stack of wood or a jack stand as an "oh crap" support in case the jack fails. Assuming the jack is low enough, I shouldn't need to put the entire front of the car up on jack stands to do this work, correct?

Other than this, the only other thing I've been warned to look out for is getting the old mount out of the bracket. Some people have said having a vice makes this much easier.

Anything else to look out for?

Thanks in advance.

----------
For anyone looking for help with a search, I'm replacing this mount because there has been a significant amount of vibration being transmitted to the cabin at low-rpms. I inspected the mount a few months back and saw fine cracks on top in a circle all the way around. I shrugged it off because I couldn't see any obvious leaks. The vibration has been getting worse (stuff in the center console arm rest rattles like CRAZY, steering wheel shakes, rear-view mirror is blurry, and the driver's door panel buzzes, etc...), so I took a look again. When I was poking at it to see how firm it was, some of the mount's oil/gel/whatever came out of a hole in the top and onto my finger. So...it's pretty clear that this mount has gone bad. Car has 55,000 miles on it, and has been exhibiting symptoms since a bit before 45k or so.


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Old 05-24-2010, 01:34 AM   #2
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Only comment would be that loctite wouldn't change torque specs appreciably, never-seize would, but locktite better for this purpose - does it's official job, and prevents corrosion to ease any future repair. Good Choice.
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Old 05-24-2010, 03:12 PM   #3
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I replaced mine the same way you are describing and had no issues and my idle is smooth as butter now...pretty easy procedure. Posted via FF Mobile
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Old 05-26-2010, 09:44 PM   #4
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Just an update and a bit of a write-up for anyone else who needs to replace the passenger mount on a duratec. The reduction in the vibration is like night and day, especially at idle. Car feels like it's new again.

The part number for an automatic should be: 5S4Z-6038-CB
For a manual it would be: 5S4Z-6038-BB

The part I was sent (for an automatic) is 5S4Z-6038-CA, which is being discontinued (Ford says they're equivalent, but the CA part is intended for cold weather climates, so maybe the viscosity of the oil inside is a bit different?). Part was about $75 from Steve @ Tousley, local dealerships wanted $110-140 for it, plus $150 or so for installation. Labor rates around here are about $100 an hour and up.

It took me a little over an hour to replace the mount, taking my time.

Remove the coolant tank by removing the single bolt on the left-hand side with a 10mm rachet + extension. At the back of the tank is a slot that fits on a tab. You need to pry the slot back from the tab to remove the coolant tank. Then you can place it off to the side to keep it out of the way. I left it resting on the dipstick.

I used the scissor jack (the one in the trunk) with a block of wood on the bottom of the oil pan to distribute the load. There IS enough room to rotate the jack handle up in front of the engine, but I'd suggest a proper floor jack if you've got it. I placed a stack of wood about a half inch under the engine as a back-up.

Once the engine is supported, you can remove the bolts that connect the bracket to the body. They're 15mm. Then you can remove the two nuts that connect the mount to the engine. These are 19mm, and I used a deep well socket. They are threaded on to studs that thread into the engine. One of my nuts was fixed to the stud with corrosion, and so the stud backed out of the engine. This is OK, you can just re-thread the stud into the engine when you install the new mount. I actually pulled the second stud out (using an 8mm 12 point head I think) to make things easier.

Once the bolts and nuts are out, you may need to raise the engine up to free the mount. My engine had sagged significantly, so that the mount was wedged in against the side of the engine. Raising it up further helped free it up.

Getting the old mount out was a bit tricky, because you have to thread it around a couple of lines (brake line I think, plus one other). They do move enough to turn the mount 90 degrees and get it out, but the bracket bumped up against the accessory belt wheel and required more pressure on the brake line than I would have liked. If anyone knows a good way to get around this, feel free to chime in.

You do not need a vice to separate the bracket and mount, because the new mount came installed on a bracket. I think all of the duratec mounts must come this way, because there isn't a real obvious way to separate the mount from the bracket, it's not bolted on.

Now you just reverse the process. Thread the new mount in around the lines, and thread the three bolts (with a bit of blue loctite) that hold the bracket to the chassis. I raised the engine up until it was flushed with the bottom of the new mount, then put some loctite on the studs and threaded them in. After threading the nuts on to the studs and confirming that everything was aligned, I tightened the bolts that secure the bracket to the chassis to 35 ft-lbs, and the nuts that connect the mount to the engine to 60 ft-lbs.

Lower the jack slowly, making sure that the mount is holding the engine. I re-torqued the bolts after the engine was hanging free, but this is probably overkill.

Then reinstall the coolant tank, making sure that any of the brakes lines or other hoses are reattached to their clips if they were dislodged.

Start the car and make sure the engine looks stable. Mine was vibrating like nuts with the old mount, and barely jiggles at idle with the new mount.

Here are some pictures. The first is what the old mount looked like in the car. You can clearly see the ring of cracks:

And when I poked at it to see if it was soft or firm, some of the oil came out:

Here are two of the new mount before it is installed:



And finally, two of the old mount after it was replaced. It's clearly collapsed (note that the rubber feet don't touch the top of the metal bracket like they do on the new mount):


Last edited by whynotthinkwhynot; 08-29-2010 at 12:42 PM. Reason: being an editing show-off
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Old 05-27-2010, 11:44 AM   #5
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Posted via FF MobileNice write up!
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Old 08-29-2010, 01:15 AM   #6
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Dan,

Very usefull post, just one doubt: the price at Tousley (USD 75) include the bracket or not? And this price is for a new or refurbished part?

I will bellow the comment I left in your Picassa account:
"Very usefull, i'll try to import from Tousley to Brasil. Can you believe that here this part replacement, labour included, would cost about USD 400? Is it possible?"
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Old 08-29-2010, 12:30 PM   #7
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I'll see if we can add this to the Complete How-To archive, and we'll imbed the pictures as well as ask you for copies to put on our on site image hosting so those will always be available.

I'll go right now and see if I can edit to embed the pics.

No pics of the new mount?
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Old 08-29-2010, 12:46 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ajmacedo View Post
Dan,

Very usefull post, just one doubt: the price at Tousley (USD 75) include the bracket or not? And this price is for a new or refurbished part?

I will bellow the comment I left in your Picassa account:
"Very usefull, i'll try to import from Tousley to Brasil. Can you believe that here this part replacement, labour included, would cost about USD 400? Is it possible?"
Personally, I have no idea what your country's tariffs nor labor charges are, so yes, that is possible. Upon checking, there are no free trade agreements between Brazil and the USA. Now if you could locate a parts supplier or manufacturer from Mexico, that might reduce your cost because Mexico and Brazil have a FTA. I'm not sure where that mount is made.
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Old 08-29-2010, 02:10 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whynotthinkwhynot View Post
I'll see if we can add this to the Complete How-To archive, and we'll imbed the pictures as well as ask you for copies to put on our on site image hosting so those will always be available.

I'll go right now and see if I can edit to embed the pics.

No pics of the new mount?

There are two pics of the new mount included there. Or did you mean post-installation? I could take those if you wanted.

The part that you get is that entire assembly, with the rubber already inserted on the aluminum bracket.

I was quoted something like $275-300 to replace the mount at my local dealership. They would have sold the part for about $110, so they were quoting about 1.5-2 hours of labor.
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Old 08-29-2010, 03:27 PM   #10
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Sure you can put up pics of it installed if you want, that would be good. I had difficulty getting the Picasa web pics URL to work with IMG tags, I ended up having to go to the page and use the control + mouse key to copy the image address. You might want to see if there is a page, or a link you can go to in order to find the right selection for use on message boards or IMG tags if that helps.
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