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Old 05-23-2010, 12:08 PM   #231
the_doc735
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sailor View Post
No washing needed! In prev. discussions, use of "soapy" products that are made to work with water was avoided, as drying off an assembly that has a lot of small gaps to "wick" and hold water is virtually impossible.

On a side note, I've often used soap & water, followed by clear water, after washing parts in solvents. The caveat is that this type of washing is ONLY possible on fully disassembled individual parts since immediate drying using compressed air blast and sometimes even a "shop" oven set warm when humid conditions prevail is essential.
If we were doing a complete rebuild on your engine, that would be the first step after complete disassembly, and would be repeated after any machine work on individual parts.

Water per se is not a complete no-no, if complete drying after use is possible to prevent corrosion of sensitive parts. After thorough cleaning & degreasing ALL internal metal parts are at risk for corrosion, so anything not immediately assembled and oiled for use needs corrosion protection while awaiting later use.


Dried residue from Varsol (white spirit) will be "washed" by the engine oil after assembly and first use (any puddles visible would have been wiped up) - remaining swarf is caught by the filter, remaining solvents suspended (dissolved) by the oil, so an earlier oil & filter change than normal would be advised. Barring a large amount of crud left behind this just means not stretching the first interval beyond normal limits. If concerned/unsure go ahead & change after a bit of use (you need to give the oil & filter time to do their job of cleaning).

Cheers!
very well said sir!

As you know I've cleaned the swarf with the WD40 as best I can. I just wanted to rinse the inside of the sump with white spirit and a brush as there are lots of little bits in there.

cheers.
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Old 05-23-2010, 12:19 PM   #232
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Thanks for the kudos, your sump would fall into the separate part category as opposed to the engine bottom, so go right ahead and wash to your heart's content!

(grin)
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Old 05-25-2010, 12:11 PM   #233
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Where are you at? Block and sump flange areas must be wiped with laquer thinner in preparation for the RTV sealant.
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Old 05-25-2010, 02:38 PM   #234
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Where are you at? Block and sump flange areas must be wiped with laquer thinner in preparation for the RTV sealant.
I have done that also.
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Old 05-25-2010, 02:42 PM   #235
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@ grumpy

please respond to reply 226 of this thread.

cheers.
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Old 05-25-2010, 03:34 PM   #236
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Have you actually loosened a camshaft sprocket bolt which allows the sprocket to rotate in relation to the camshaft?
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Old 05-26-2010, 09:20 AM   #237
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Have you actually loosened a camshaft sprocket bolt which allows the sprocket to rotate in relation to the camshaft?
the sprockets rotate freely

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Old 05-26-2010, 12:33 PM   #238
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Then you can go ahead and put just enough tension on the timing belt to keep it located on the crankshaft and on the loosened/free to rotate camshaft sprockets (more to keep the belt from getting damaged than anything). Locate the camshafts with the No. 1 cylinder cam lobe noses basically up......use the timing tool to locate them. Locate the crankshaft so that No.1 piston is at TDC (if you use the pin, remove it). Lock the flywheel, solidly with the flywheel lock. Torque the pulley bolt to the initial 30 ft/lbs, as you have determined it to be. The flywheel lock countertorque still feels "solid"? Everything should be peachy at this point. Getting to the 90 deg. bolt rotation is what concerns me re the countertorque.......probably about the last 30 degrees. Mark the bolt head (remember the angular 90 deg. rotation is in relation to the crankshaft, not the pulley, which may rotate with the bolt) so that you can determine when you've reached the 90 degrees. The torque is going to get "up there" quite quickly, so that if it feels as if you could be overloading the flywheel lock/ring gear tooth, then STOP (after about 60 degrees you could periodically check with a torque wrench set at about 140 ft/lbs and see if you've got up to that amount). Winding up the driveline to assist the flywheel lock for countertorque could be useful, if required, but you will need assistance. Final belt tensioning (I see it's got marks) and final checks to follow.
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Old 05-26-2010, 07:15 PM   #239
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Originally Posted by Grumpy View Post
Then you can go ahead and put just enough tension on the timing belt to keep it located on the crankshaft and on the loosened/free to rotate camshaft sprockets (more to keep the belt from getting damaged than anything). Locate the camshafts with the No. 1 cylinder cam lobe noses basically up......use the timing tool to locate them. Locate the crankshaft so that No.1 piston is at TDC (if you use the pin, remove it). Lock the flywheel, solidly with the flywheel lock. Torque the pulley bolt to the initial 30 ft/lbs, as you have determined it to be. The flywheel lock countertorque still feels "solid"? Everything should be peachy at this point. Getting to the 90 deg. bolt rotation is what concerns me re the countertorque.......probably about the last 30 degrees. Mark the bolt head (remember the angular 90 deg. rotation is in relation to the crankshaft, not the pulley, which may rotate with the bolt) so that you can determine when you've reached the 90 degrees. The torque is going to get "up there" quite quickly, so that if it feels as if you could be overloading the flywheel lock/ring gear tooth, then STOP (after about 60 degrees you could periodically check with a torque wrench set at about 140 ft/lbs and see if you've got up to that amount). Winding up the driveline to assist the flywheel lock for countertorque could be useful, if required, but you will need assistance. Final belt tensioning (I see it's got marks) and final checks to follow.
thanks very very much!

I probably won't be able to do this until friday or saturday. Putting sump back on thursday [27.05.10].

cheers!
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Old 06-01-2010, 12:38 PM   #240
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got sump put back on friday, used your [grumpy] torque recommendations and bolt tightening sequence. Cleaned flanges first!!

Bad weather sat/sun/mon ~ so no progress! Forecast said sunny on tuesday [today] but they were hopelessly inaccurate as usual i.e. rain, rain, rain.

See what tomorrow brings with the weather ay?

Just thought I'd update this thread.

cheers!
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