removal of crankshaft pulley bolt? - Page 23 - Focus Fanatics
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Old 05-21-2010, 09:18 AM   #221
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Once you're satisfied that you've got all the swarf cleaned off
I don't think that I can be absolutely certain of getting ALL the swarf off, but only the vast majority [99% at best].

cheers!
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Old 05-21-2010, 11:35 AM   #222
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I'm now flying out tomorrow morn. Good enough with the swarf.......the pump will survive it and it'll end up in the filter. To clarify the 90 deg. bolt rotation......that's in relation to the CRANKSHAFT (which is why I wanted to keep track of any pulley clocking with my earlier suggested markings). So as not to concern yourself with having to keep track/adjust for any pulley clocking.......as an alternate procedure.......after the 30 ft/lbs initial torquing, mark/scribe the bolt (through the centre) with a horizontal line, parallel with the block/pan splitline, for example, and then rotate the bolt until the line is "vertical" and parallel with the vertical (virtual?) centreline of the block. Plus/minus 5 deg., should be close enough. Lining up a straight edge might be useful. Get my drift? You can still mark the pulley so that you can see if it's clocking. Anytime that you are torquing/rotating the bolt, again, make sure that the belt is not being "picked up" by the crankshaft sprocket......you don't want to damage it etc. This still may not be easy.
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Old 05-21-2010, 03:44 PM   #223
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Good enough with the swarf.......the pump will survive it and it'll end up in the filter.
Right ~ I think I've got rid of as much as is humanly possible with the 'WD'; around 95-97%. I 've looked at it intently with a bright spotlight and I can't see any particles on the sides of the casing or on each piston bearing. I flushed copiously and used two 600ml 'trade size' cans!!

I don't need to wash it off - do I?

I also scraped the old RTV OFF 'the flats' of the underside of the block. Just need to do the same on the sump and then prepare it clean and dry for new RTV. I will refer back to what you said earlier about sump torque and bolt sequence etc.

The local garage did confirm what you said about the filter catching the remainder of the swarf!

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Old 05-21-2010, 05:50 PM   #224
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Posted via FF MobileNo washing needed ...that`s the advantage of cleaning with that pproduct...
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Old 05-22-2010, 09:08 AM   #225
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Posted via FF MobileNo washing needed ...that`s the advantage of cleaning with that pproduct...



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Old 05-22-2010, 09:58 AM   #226
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Based on everything you guys have told me, here is my action plan:

1. Oil bearings [with 5/30W], fully refit windage and sump.
2. Support engine from underside.
3. Remove engine mount (again)
4. Insert timing pin rotate crank CW to gently touch pin in the TDC position.
5. Lock crank at flywheel with [starter hole] tool. Then remove pin!
6. Check Cam shaft timing with timing bar across cam timing lobes.
7. Slip on free floating crank timing sprocket.
8. Slip new belt loosely over sprocket, [noting direction].
9. Fit lower belt cover.
10. Slip free floating pulley on to crank and 'drive home' with an old bolt - so that it is fully seated BUT NOT yet TORQUED!
11. Torque crankshaft bolt through stage one and two respectively; allowing the free floating pulley and timing sprocket to rotate at will [the crank is still held in position through the starter hole flywheel locking tool @ TDC].
12. Re-check cam timing with bar and lobe positions.
13. Hold each cam steady with 21mm spanner [across machined flats just behind 'P1']. Whilst holding, loosen each [free floating cam sprocket] bolt a little to allow cam sprocket rotation.
14. Slip new belt over cam sprockets and rotate till teeth engage.
15. Pull belt up to engage crank sprocket teeth ensuring that the slack is on the tensioner side.
16. Re-check both cam timing positions with bar.

Note: my tensioner is the FIXED ROLLER type [i.e. NOT eccentric].

17. Use 8mm allen key to turn the tensioner CW to tension the timing belt until "it's pointer" is between the two marks behind the tensioner roller, then tighten the two retaining bolts to the specified [ford] torque setting.
18. Re-check both cam timing positions with bar.
19. Lock cam sprockets [with 'SOMETHING'?] and re-tighten cam sprocket bolts to the specified [ford] torque setting.
20. Re-check both cam timing positions with bar.
21. Remove ALL locking tools, spanners etc.
22. Rotate crankshaft through three complete revolutions [cycles], ensuring that the valves are not fouling the pistons!!
23. Replace crank timing hole 'PLUG' [bolt].
24. Rebuild remainder of engine and auxiliaries that were removed for the belt replacement procedure.

Any good??

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Old 05-22-2010, 11:10 AM   #227
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Putting the timing belt on should not be difficult if you have the tensioner locked in with a pin as per the directions. At least it wasn't difficult on everything else I've ever worked on.
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Old 05-22-2010, 11:45 AM   #228
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if you have the tensioner locked in with a pin
...don't understand.

Last edited by the_doc735; 05-22-2010 at 06:38 PM.
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Old 05-23-2010, 08:31 AM   #229
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Posted via FF MobileNo washing needed ...that`s the advantage of cleaning with that pproduct...
what about varsol [= white spirit] ...does that need washing off?

cheers!
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Old 05-23-2010, 11:14 AM   #230
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No washing needed! In prev. discussions, use of "soapy" products that are made to work with water was avoided, as drying off an assembly that has a lot of small gaps to "wick" and hold water is virtually impossible.

On a side note, I've often used soap & water, followed by clear water, after washing parts in solvents. The caveat is that this type of washing is ONLY possible on fully disassembled individual parts since immediate drying using compressed air blast and sometimes even a "shop" oven set warm when humid conditions prevail is essential.
If we were doing a complete rebuild on your engine, that would be the first step after complete disassembly, and would be repeated after any machine work on individual parts.

Water per se is not a complete no-no, if complete drying after use is possible to prevent corrosion of sensitive parts. After thorough cleaning & degreasing ALL internal metal parts are at risk for corrosion, so anything not immediately assembled and oiled for use needs corrosion protection while awaiting later use.


Dried residue from Varsol (white spirit) will be "washed" by the engine oil after assembly and first use (any puddles visible would have been wiped up) - remaining swarf is caught by the filter, remaining solvents suspended (dissolved) by the oil, so an earlier oil & filter change than normal would be advised. Barring a large amount of crud left behind this just means not stretching the first interval beyond normal limits. If concerned/unsure go ahead & change after a bit of use (you need to give the oil & filter time to do their job of cleaning).

Cheers!
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