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Old 05-17-2010, 04:46 PM   #211
the_doc735
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For pete's sake don't spend any more money on "flushing fluids".......the idea was to use something that could help flush/remove the swarf only. It seems to me that a spray WD40 (or the British equiv.) would work fine......but nothing that requires a water rinse. You're flushing, not cleaning.
Ok - I'll go out and get some of that in morning, then give it all a really good squirt. Remember that the swarf is buried into the oil that lines the inside wall of the block! So the WD40 will have to un-stick the swarf as well as rinse it away! WD40 is the same here in UK too [expensive!].

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It's the torque range of the torque wrenches that you have that I'm interested in.
I'll get that info in the daylight tomorrow.

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The angular gauge could be useful, but marks on the bolt and pulley will work fine.
OK

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The problem is going to be dealing with the fact that the pulley is going to want to rotate with the bolt causing the pulley to rotate the sprocket.
Yer I know! ...bit silly, why didn't they [ford] just key the damn thing???

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The final checking of the crank to camshafts timing is easy......getting the actual timing bang on, is the trick.
yer ...it will be

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Unless you can find the exact Sigma engine procedure on a website or such,
..not sure?

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I'm pretty sure that the camshaft sprockets are doweled/keyed/splined to the camshafts, so I was not planning to disturb them.
OK - good!

cheers.
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Old 05-17-2010, 10:22 PM   #212
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Sorry, but WD40 here is cheap as borscht, relatively speaking. Does the upper surface of the girdle have the same ribbing and "pockets" like the bottom appears to have......I was concerned that swarf and any flushing fluid could get trapped in the pockets and would require manually soaking it up. How about a varsol/varsol like paint thinner product (a quart should be more than plenty) and sprayed out of a pistol trigger type spray bottle (one like ArmorAll and lots of household products come in), some even have an adjustable nozzle. I always save a couple of empty ones.
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Old 05-18-2010, 09:02 AM   #213
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Sorry, but WD40 here is cheap as borscht, relatively speaking. Does the upper surface of the girdle have the same ribbing and "pockets" like the bottom appears to have......I was concerned that swarf and any flushing fluid could get trapped in the pockets and would require manually soaking it up. How about a varsol/varsol like paint thinner product (a quart should be more than plenty) and sprayed out of a pistol trigger type spray bottle (one like ArmorAll and lots of household products come in), some even have an adjustable nozzle. I always save a couple of empty ones.
I will check to see if it has any 'pockets'!

I now have WD40 equivalent [cheaper!] and varsol equivalent [white spirit]. I took the jebsol 88 back for a refund (again).

The WD40 is a spray can.
I have a pump action 'gun/bottle' for the white spirit.
I also have a long handle '1 inch'/ 45, bristle brush.

I guess I am ready to start the clean up [flushing/rinsing] now then?

cheers!
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Old 05-18-2010, 09:12 AM   #214
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It's the torque range of the torque wrenches that you have that I'm interested in...
...the small one is 10 - 80 Newton Meters.
...the large one is 40 - 200 Newton Meters.

Cheers!
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Old 05-18-2010, 11:54 AM   #215
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I would go with the smaller one for the initial 30 ft/lbs torque. Once you're satisfied that you've got all the swarf and any swarf contaminated fluids cleaned up, then how about just temporarily bolting up the oil pan to the block with the final installation to be done after the pulley bolt torquing and camshaft timing.
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Old 05-18-2010, 06:12 PM   #216
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dear grumpy and everyone,

I need to suspend proceedings for 24-48 hours, due to the fact that my partners focus was broken into during the night ~ the HI-FI was stolen and the interior was wrecked by a criminal/junkie 'whatever' - in the ghetto were I live. I need to get that 'sorted' a little bit before I can continue with my own project.

Hope you all understand?

Sorry!!
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Old 05-19-2010, 10:51 AM   #217
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Posted via FF MobileBest of luck with the damage aftermath, sorry to hear of it
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Old 05-19-2010, 08:47 PM   #218
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Posted via FF MobileBest of luck with the damage aftermath, sorry to hear of it
...thank you so much for your sympathy, empathy and support; it means a lot to me personally!
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Old 05-20-2010, 05:25 PM   #219
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I would go with the smaller one for the initial 30 ft/lbs torque. .
OK

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Once you're satisfied that you've got all the swarf and any swarf contaminated fluids cleaned up, then how about just temporarily bolting up the oil pan to the block with the final installation to be done after the pulley bolt torquing and camshaft timing?
What is the intended objective in this respect? i.e. why not just complete the final installation once the swarf is gone?

cheers!
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Old 05-20-2010, 06:31 PM   #220
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With 30 ft/lbs and a further 90 deg. bolt rotation, the torque (and countertorque loads) are going to be quite high (you won't know until you get up there). I know 35 fl/lbs & 60 deg. (my Nissan) took a good effort to hold the flywheel (jammed with a large bar). 90 deg. is well beyond that......so with yours I thought just in case you need any additional method to hold the crank it might be a good idea to not do the final installation of the oil pan. Do you have help if you need it? EDIT: I may not get to a computer as easily over the next few days......it's a holiday weekend here and I'm heading out. You could locate TDC and using the ring gear lock solidly lock the crankshaft. Use a marker pen and mark each of the two ring gear teeth (or line adjacent to) on either side of the tool "tooth". You could also mark a line on the flywheel (or clutch cover) in line with another mark on the tranny case or fixed landmark. This just gives you a visible TDC reference. REMOVE the crankshaft TDC pin. Locate the camshafts with the timing plate tool (verify that all four cam lobe noses for #1 cylinder are pointing basically, UP), but ensure that the drive belt is not able to engage the crankshaft or camshaft sprockets well enough to "drive" or rotate the camshafts. I believe that you've already got the sprocket, the drive belt and that guard already slid on/over the crankshaft and maybe the pulley and bolt (a small amount of engine oil on the bolt threads) and a little grease on the bolt contact area with the pulley. Mark a line on the large diameter pulley in line with another line on the crankcase or oil pan (whatever is more convenient and visible) so that you can see if, and how much, the pulley rotates during the bolt torquing. As you start applying the 30 ft/lbs (I'll let you do the conversion to NMs) see how it feels and how much the pulley wants to rotate (which may take the sprocket with it). I think it will, but I don't know for sure if the tendency to rotate will even happen, or if it increases as you apply more torque, or if it will decrease with more torque. If it happens it may only be a minor complication. You'll find out. After the initial 30 ft/lbs torquing.......mark a line on the face of the bolt head (the washer part) and a mark in line with that one on the pulley face. Mark a line on the pulley face 90 deg. clockwise from the first line. This is just to confirm that you actually obtain the 90 degs. in case the pulley rotates with the bolt. You can use your angle guage, but still make the marks. As you rotate the bolt if it feels like the torque and the required countertorque is getting really high and making you nervous about the flywheel locking tool (I suspect after about 60 deg. it's going to get pretty high, quickly) then you'll have to use the chocked front wheels (allowing for the driveline "windup") to assist in the countertorque. Once the pulley bolt is torqued to spec., remove the flywheel lock, rotate/locate the crankshaft again so that #1 piston is at TDC and install the camshaft locking tool (ensuring that the cam lobes nose are pointing UP). The drive belt is then engaged with the crank sprocket and the belt is "fed/slid" onto the camshaft sprockets, keeping the "driven" side in tension if you can (make sure that the crank shaft doesn't rotate CCW) and fed (in a counterclockwise direction) over the camshafts sprockets, engaging the cogs. Now......if the belt is already engaging all the sprocket cogs reasonably well then you can remove the camshaft timing tool, and the crank TDC pin, but don't rotate the crankshaft yet. The tensioner and any belt tension adjustment, if it isn't "self adjusting", is something you'll have to find out, if you haven't already. After obtaining the correct belt tension (yes, it can affect the timing, requiring a belt installation redo). After the tensioning of the belt and if the camshaft timing is at least very close, rotate the engine very slowly (all spark plugs removed) CW using the pulley bolt, two or three revolutions. Install the TDC crank pin bring the crank up on the compression stroke until the crank contacts the pin. Check the camshafts timing using the timing tool plate. Bang on or what? EDIT: I may have missed something and/or caused confusion, and you'll have questions. I should be able to get on to my friends computer on Sat. our time.

Last edited by Grumpy; 05-21-2010 at 02:52 AM.
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