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Old 05-09-2010, 05:09 PM   #121
the_doc735
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Originally Posted by iminhell View Post
The broken ears on the cam are no big deal. Just use a adjustable wrench to hold the cam in place, looking to the alignment end to make sure it's right, and tighten them this way (should always be done this way BTW, less strain on the ears).
OK

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The compression stroke and what not ... doesn't matter. You're setting the compression stroke where you see fit. With our 2.0's you can run the cams 180* out of time and the car runs the same (obviously they both have to be out of time). This means the dead teeth on the flywheel will adjust (or the ECU will adjust). I assume the 1.4/1.6 and 1.8 are similar if not the same.
I see.

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Basically just get #1 to the top and set the timing. Don't have to worry about anything else or 'oh crap, i moved the piston, now where was it again'.
I see.

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I wouldn't use the timing pin. They are machined very exact. The screwdriver will work fine, may not be exact but you can adjust a bit if need be (cross that bridge when/if we get there).
Great!!


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I'm kinda curious why you can't rotate the engine 360* though. If the cam bar isn't in place the valve will 'center' and you should be able to rotate at will. If you can't it would sound like something is bent and hanging open or there is an obstruction somewhere. Best find it.
Bent 'locking pin' in side of block!

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Just remember, tighten the timing tensioner before the cam gears.
why?

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Old 05-09-2010, 05:14 PM   #122
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Originally Posted by Grumpy View Post
The crank is probably hung up on the pin. iminhell.......I don't think this has VCT, but there are other variants including interference versions of the 1.6. I hope it's only the bent pin......the camshaft "ears" broke because of loads imposed from attempting to loosen the pulley bolt free.......at some point the belt shredded. This job could be worse than a Duratec.
yes ~ hung on pin.

It doesn't have variable cam timing!

"interference versions of the 1.6" ??? what...

cheers!
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Old 05-09-2010, 05:20 PM   #123
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iminhell has some good points at least if your cam sprockets are loose (adjustable) by free rotation after mounting bolt loosened as ours are..
pardon??

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I fear he missed the Timing Pin portion though, I was wondering myself if a discreet bit of tapping the opposite way by rotating the crank might free up the bent pin enough for removal. If it doesn't rotate freely right now of course the pan removal is the next step - IF ONLY to see what you're dealing with to resolve it with minimum further ado...
I am going to remove the sump anyway to have a look at it from inside.

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How did you like that POP when the tension finally released! The large head seating surface produced an amazing amount of "sticktion".
Sorry - 'no pop' :(

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I was hoping for the easy removal of the stub, as I've had the same experience on a smaller scale before, with the same final result. (Cycle engines - Flywheel/charging rotor attachment)
pardon??

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Cheers to your patience & a good final outcome!
Thank you very much!!
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Old 05-09-2010, 05:23 PM   #124
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Wow, I'm really glad to see you got that off. Hope all goes well from here on out
Thank you very much!
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Old 05-09-2010, 05:36 PM   #125
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the_doc735........I sure wish that someone in Britain and familiar with the Euro Focuses had been able to help you from the start......but that's water under the bridge.



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Before going any further.......can you take a couple of photos of the engine including the camshaft sprockets/camshafts. Ford UK has caused nothing but confusion with their engine and car names. After looking at the UK websites again, I think this is the Zetec (Sigma) version with the connection to Yamaha.........aluminum block (looks like it in your photos) etc, correct?.
Yes ~ correct. I'll do some cam photos tomorrow!


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I think you mentioned the engine code. Forget trying to extract the bent pin.......the oil pan will have be removed, I figure.
I agree.

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A good inspection of the camshafts etc, and a "function" check of the valve operation probably should be next.
Done! ~ seems fine to me?


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But first, can you rotate (without any binding) the crankshaft enough so that there is no piston located within a couple of inches from the bottom of the spark plug threads?
Unsure?

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Old 05-09-2010, 05:40 PM   #126
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Originally Posted by whynotthinkwhynot View Post
That crank sprocket looks toast to me, like it was loose or something. I've never seen one egged like that before. At the very least, I'd want to look at a new one before I put that one in to make sure it's supposed to look like that.
On close and thorough inspection it seems fine to me?

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You're almost to the point where I'd want to have a salvage engine to swap in for that one mate. It might be your cheapest route if you start running into other problems.
Another engine! ~ Are you serious?

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Old 05-09-2010, 06:26 PM   #127
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More photos would be nice, but no VCT is good news. Forget the request re the piston position.......when you rotated the camshafts, if there was no real resistance other than the normal resistance as would be expected as the valves were being opened.......AND......as the valves were closing, that their associated cam followers (buckets) "followed" (up) the cam lobes as the valves were closing. Get my drift? An "interference" engine is one that when the crank and the camshaft(s) get out of time (ie. when the timing belt breaks) a piston can come up and smack an open valve. Still not sure about your engine. The reason for the pulley removal was because the timing belt cannot be weaseled out from "behind" the crankshaft pulley after the belt is slid off the camshaft sprockets? Is the exhaust manifold on the front side of the engine or on the firewall side?
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Old 05-09-2010, 07:06 PM   #128
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So can the timing pin be removed?
(really hoping it's a simple yes and it's already removed)

Rotate the crank after removal just to make sure it's free and doesn't bind. Then go about install process.



In regard to your question about the cam gears,

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There will be no 'best scenario'.
The problem lies in how the cam gears fit to the cam. There is no alignment pin (except for some aftermarket cams). So installation variance will happen, and that being the case my settings may be different than yours.

To show you what I mean I'll go through a bit of math.
One cam degree equals 2 crank degrees. Remember that cam rotates once for every 2 rotations of the crank.
One crank degree is equal to 0.01925". That makes one cam degree equal to 0.009625".
I'm not sure how long the piston 'dwells' at top dead center but I'd imagine 1* is close. That adds a variance of 0.5* in cam timing at TDC.

If you're using the old screwdriver in the hole to find TDC you can add in more error as there is no way you can see or feel such a small variance in movement. Add a dial caliper to the screwdriver method and you have to account for 'wiggle' of all screwdriver, again small variances and you've no clue how much.

Even using a TDC pin there will be variance. How tight did the piston seat to the pin, how tight was the pin turned in, was the pin an exact length to being with ...

Assuming everything was installed properly and to exacting specs there is still belt loading and stretch.
The first start up will put the proper loading on the timing belt and that small stretch may change the timing ever so slightly.



So when you go to set the timing you do the tensioner first to take up any slack in the belt then tighten the cam bolts. If you do the cam bolts first then the tensioner there is a better chance of changing cam timing (just slightly, but slightly can have a negative effect). There is also the case of tightening the cam bolts with the cam bad in place that the tensioner will not take up all the slack in the belt, in which case the belt may be loose and timing could jump (very off chance but still a chance).
Just go through the steps to best eliminate any possibility of error.
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Old 05-09-2010, 08:26 PM   #129
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iminhell.......I think you are forgetting that the timing belt cover/shield can be removed (at least on all three of the belt driven camshaft cars that I've owned......to allow for the belt replacement) so that the camshaft sprockets do not have to be removed (unlike the chain drive Duratec, for example). The belt can be slipped off and slipped on when the tension is relaxed. You can see that the cover is missing in the photo(s). The belt tensioner with respect to it's affect on the timing will be addressed on the install, and subsequent timing checks. The tricky part will be dealing with the tendency for the crankshaft sprocket to rotate during the final torquing of the crankshaft pulley bolt (and holding the crank). One thing at a time.
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Old 05-09-2010, 08:40 PM   #130
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Yes there is the possibility that it could be done W/O loosening the cam bolts and I'd trust a mechanic of someone who's done the process a few times to do so. But for someone doing things their first time out and to lessen the chance of error it's best to eliminate any possibility of error.

That's simply all I'm trying to do here.
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