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Old 04-16-2010, 06:41 PM   #11
Shredz
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I've got the same thing going on. I still have the stock rubber bushes in there though and have a new set of Energy poly to put in. I was thinking this was a rare thing but, apparently, at least one other person is having the same issue.

But, geeze, these cars can dive into a corner really well, huh? I'm pretty sure my problem is because I do drive the car into corners harder than I should...and if I find an unexpected bump or hole in the road surface, which on occation I have, the damage would be instant to something down there....as well as to my wallet.

How easy is it to remove the bar for inspection?
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Old 04-16-2010, 08:26 PM   #12
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Its not that big of a deal to remove the bar if you have a lift... I wouldnt want to do it if I had to do it at home though, that's for sure. It is really nice to know that I'm not the only one. ^^^does your sway hit only on the right side as well??? surely there is some kind of resolution to this b/s problem.

oh yeah, shredz I just installed the energy urethane's and it made it worse... like our bud said earlier, the urethanes surface is a lot more slick, and if you grease them as you should with dielectric grease or something non petroleum based to prevent squeaking.... it makes it even more worse.

I'm really beginning to lean towards the bar... it make more and more sense

Last edited by SVTturd2003; 04-16-2010 at 08:30 PM. Reason: updaterooo
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Old 04-19-2010, 03:21 PM   #13
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Isn't there some sort of limiting method used on the sway bar, to keep it from shifting side to side?
IOW, a small welded boss (or similar) right next to the bushings?
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Old 04-19-2010, 05:22 PM   #14
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I know on my H&R swaybar I used 4 small hose clamps on the insides of each of the bushings to keep the swaybar from walking as you are describing. The Eibach unit comes with two big washers of sorts welded to the bar to prevent this but the stockers do not.

If the bar is walking side to side like that and is stock (basically, not supposed to from the factory) either the bushings holding it are seriously worn out (too big inner diameter) or something else is going on causing the bar to be under extreme sideways load instead of creating torsion like its supposed to. Very strange either way.

When I had my Eibach swaybar I did run into a bad problem with their drivers bushing they sent with the car. Going over bumps a loud clunk would be heard and it turned out that the bushing was too large and would let the bar move up and down causing a clunk. Apparently Eibach has a problem with this as several other members reported similar findings so I just went with an H&R FSB and never had any other problems.

Try the hose clamps. Center the bar as well as you can tell and put the hose clamps around the bar on the insides of the bushings and close as you can get em. Really reef em down and it should keep the bar from walking.
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Old 04-20-2010, 06:48 AM   #15
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I think I figured out what is causing the sway bar to move... when I installed my new shocks/struts, I ordered new bump stops and strut bearings all, so that it would all be fresh. I trimmed the bump stops down just a hair to allow a little more travel. I think(havent taken it apart yet) that one of the stops is cut a little shorter than the other causing the pull. I had this problem before I installed the new bump stops, but I did notice one of the stops worn down more than the other. I'm gonna try new bumps stops this afternoon and I might as well go ahead with the hose clamps too. I know most cars/trucks have some kind of sleeve welded on to the bar on the inside of the bushings to restrict movement and it has been suggested to me over the weekend from one of our old techs here at the dealer I work at to weld something, even just a bead, to restrict the movement. I know the new bushings fit snug so I'll update in a day or two to let everyone know if the stops are the resolution. Thanks for all the input...
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Old 04-20-2010, 09:51 AM   #16
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Posted via FF Mobile FWIW, most I`ve seen use no stops, depend on ends flexing to self-center... (oposite flex on each end under load, none when neutral..)
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Old 04-21-2010, 12:21 AM   #17
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I dont think bump stops is going to slove your issue. The shock would have to be really really compressed in order for the bump stop to be needed.
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Old 04-21-2010, 06:57 AM   #18
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well taking everyones opinion into consideration, i checked my bumps stops yesterday, the passengers side stop was about an 1/8" taller than the drivers side... while I had it on the lift I installed some hose clamps on the insides of the sway bar bushings after centering the bar. *side note( I also went ahead and installed my Progress 22mm rear sway). I drove the wheels off of it last night trying to produce the same negative effect as before, to no avail. Not sure if the stops made any difference but I would say the clamps were the main resolution. I must say that I do like the change that the urethane front bushings make, along with the progress rear bar... much improved. thanks for all the input.
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Old 04-21-2010, 12:43 PM   #19
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Glad it got resolved.
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Old 04-21-2010, 12:49 PM   #20
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Sweet! Thats a nice trick to hear about the hose clamps.
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