Sway bar links!

[yeahdudeguy]

So i was under the SVTF saturday and noticed something bad!

The previous owner had the sway bar links replaced (dont know why wont know why) But she had some installed that had grease nipples on them And omfg was that a mess.Not only was it leaking everywhere they had been destroyed.So i went to good ol' DrumHill Ford(local to me) and bought some Stock links.( no nipples on these babies) Not only do they not require greasing they are LIGHT.Its about a 20min install time given the right tools.

I have a How to on The install of these.I will post later on in the week Just wanted to give a heads up to anyone looking to replace the links to buy factory

[Sponsor]

[norcalfocus01]

Your talking about the front right?

The stock end links are junk, thats why the previous owner put the other ones on. There heavier to hold up better, plus they have zerks so they can be greased. The OEM are known to wear out and start making noise and theres nothing you can di about it.

If you still have the olds you can mail them to me instead of tossing them, I'll pay for shipping.

[Joshuasvt]

Lol! Moog ftw!!

[djo90]

I got factory replacements. Replacing them today

[WD40]

Moved to "Wheels, Tires, Brakes & Suspension"

Originally Posted by djo90

I got factory replacements. Replacing them today

^^^You might check the new ones compared to the originals if you still have them.
Ford revised the part at least a year ago, and the replacements you get now are a good bit stouter than the originals.
I've got a set that's been waiting to go on for a while now. (Haven't been driving the car much this winter)

I had the Moogs, and I'm not using them again.
1) Harder to install. (Had to get a special thin wrench to keep the joint from turning during installation)
The Ford parts have a torx or allen head recess in the joint which is much easier to use.
2) Seals ripped where the clip holds them on...grease every where.
3) Zerk fitting never did fit very tight on one side, and it finally fell out.
A new one would not stay in either as the end cap was so thin it wouldn't hold any threads.
4) A greasable joint is never as strong as a non-greasable joint.
They might look bigger (stronger), but that's because they are a mostly hollow housing to hold the grease.
The joint itself in many cases is smaller than a comparable non-greasable unit.
Ask any off-roader what type of u-joint they use, and 99% of the time it will be a solid non-greasable type.

I know the Moogs get props around the forums, but IMHO the new part from Ford is a much better option.

[norcalfocus01]

Doug, how much were they and how much beefier?

Geezer had found the Duralast by Auto Zone to be a good priced set and heavier than the OEM's.

[yeahdudeguy]

i have pics ill post them up tomorrow morning when i get some time and yes they did revise the links when i got them i know they seemed a little different to me so i called to make sure i had the right part number.

[Geezer]

Originally Posted by norcalfocus01

Doug, how much were they and how much beefier?

Geezer had found the Duralast by Auto Zone to be a good priced set and heavier than the OEM's.

Yes, we've got the Duralast ones and so far so good. They cost half as much as the Moogs. I like them for almost that reason alone. I haven't seen the new Ford units so I'll take WD's word that they're better than the old design (looked like pieces of wire to me).The duralast ones are much beefier than those spindlely wire ones we replaced. They have zerks as well. In my opinion people probably over fill the endlinks and lube them far too frequently which causes some of the problems mentioned.

[WD40]

Originally Posted by norcalfocus01

Doug, how much were they and how much beefier?

I hate to say this, but I have no idea what they cost, since it's been a while. (I ordered them from Tousley Ford)
I'll try to get a pic of the 2 next to each other to show the difference.

Originally Posted by Geezer

In my opinion people probably over fill the endlinks and lube them far too frequently which causes some of the problems mentioned.

Not the case here, but I have seen more than one seal/boot blow out from over-filling.
I'm thinking I got a cheap Chinese knock-off, and not real Moogs.
They weren't Moog branded on the package, but were supposed to be the exact same part.

[In Focus]

oem? sigh should have got mogg

i just did few days ago beats oem for the money ft and rear