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Old 03-13-2011, 10:51 AM   #81
bmylez
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Oh it's noticeably loud while driving? Sounds louder than my valve train was...and that's saying something. You might have something wrong, but it's hard to tell without more diagnosis.
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Old 03-13-2011, 02:39 PM   #82
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I am going to get valve clearance corrected and then see how it looks. My current clearances are as follows:

Intake:

1: 0.011 & 0.011
2: 0.010 & 0.010
3: 0.010 & 0.011
4: 0.010 & 0.009

Exhaust:

1: 0.014 & 0.015
2: 0.015 & 0.015
3: 0.015 & 0.016
4: 0.016 & 0.016

The values should be:
Intake -> 0.05 -> 0.07
Exhaust -> 0.011 ->0.013

Hoping that will fix the issue. Does anyone know where I can buy the buckets that are used to change the clearance and approximate pricing?

Thanks
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Old 03-13-2011, 05:43 PM   #83
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Quote:
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Oh it's noticeably loud while driving? Sounds louder than my valve train was...and that's saying something. You might have something wrong, but it's hard to tell without more diagnosis.
It is loudest on cold startup and becomes gradually softer when it heats up, but I can still hear it if I have the window open while driving.
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Old 03-16-2011, 09:53 PM   #84
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I am almost done. The one thing that bugs me and I am not sure it should be this way, but my DP is almost up against the aluminum block on the back of the AC. I mean it is so close I cannot fit the flat end of a small screw driver between them. I do not have my wrap on yet, but I am sure if I do put it on they would make contact. Is it supposed to be like this or can I "trim the corner of the AC connector or what else can I do?
Hey Leon, could you do me a favor and post or send me a pic of the backside of the AC compressor. I was told that the SVT lines hook up differently than the stock Zetec lines do. As my down pipe is so close ,I did have to dent it to clear. Thanks, Rocco. You can also send it to my email if that is easier
iroc34a@yahoo.com I appreciate it....
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Old 03-21-2011, 12:20 AM   #85
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Well I found the reason for the noise. See pics below:

http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w...lll/photo1.jpg

http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w...lll/photo2.jpg

http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w.../piston4_1.jpg

http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w...lll/photo3.jpg

http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w...lll/photo6.jpg

This is the number 4 piston. There are score marks on cylinders 2, 3 and 4. I did not bother taking out the other pistons yet. Note the oil on the top is from oil that dropped down from the spark plugs when I removed them. I had a small oil leak that lets oil get to the plugs. Piston 4 is the only one with a piece missing.

This is my "built" engine with all forged internals after 2k miles.
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Last edited by Springbuck; 03-21-2011 at 02:53 PM.
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Old 03-21-2011, 07:04 PM   #86
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WTF. Who built your motor? You been driving it hard?
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Old 03-21-2011, 08:02 PM   #87
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WTF. Who built your motor? You been driving it hard?
Nope. Car has not been over 75mph. Has between 2 and 3k miles on it. Block is ruined I think. Big score marks on the cylinders at the bottom of the cylinder. It is a complete shortblock I bought. I put it together. I am not convinced it was cylinder heat related. I also see no heat markings on the cylinder walls. They are the regular gray/silver color.
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Old 03-21-2011, 08:10 PM   #88
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Yea that sucks man!!! Just read your entire thread!! Terrible news!!
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Old 03-21-2011, 08:52 PM   #89
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Well...scoring marks would indicate a lack of lubrication, I would think. Maybe your cylinders weren't bored enough for the pistons...oil pump failing? Just thinking out loud. Probably completely wrong. It's just weird...you didn't spin a rod or main bearing...so it doesn't seem load related. Block might be salvageable, but it looks like you probably can't reuse the pistons. Sorry.
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Old 03-21-2011, 09:25 PM   #90
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What the hell would cause the piston to loose a hunk like that. And This engine was still running.I thought you were going to reset the cam clearences
What happened? Sorry man . Hate that it happened...
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