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Old 04-05-2010, 12:06 PM   #11
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question:
has anyone had tried a 225/50/16? how about on a 1.5 drop?
also, what lightweight wheels are our there in a 16x7.5?? i've only seen a couple..
thanks.
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Old 04-05-2010, 04:17 PM   #12
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Unless you're afraid of putting some reasonable wear on the expensive tires on the car, you shouldn't worry about that yet. Odds are that size wouldn't be any faster that what you have now, unless you paid enough to get sticky tires.
A better investment would be seat time. Get the schedules for the year of the 3 or 4 closest other clubs, put it all on a calendar, and see which ones you might be able to make. If you must buy tires, get something affordable in a stock size and try to destroy them with as many events as possible. You'll probably run a year or two before tires are relevant.

An experienced driver will gain a second or so from sticky tires. A good launch is worth a few tenths of a second. Experience is worth several whole seconds. A rookie can learn bad habits with great tires, while things you learn on bad tires will still apply later to sticky tires.
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Old 04-05-2010, 05:02 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GodLovesUgly View Post
hopefully WD40 catches this, it's a question about camera mounts. the one he made in particular. i'm going to be making on this weekend, and just wanted to know more about the strap that is needed per scca rules. does it just need to attach to the camera and something else solid? like the mount or headrest bars?
thanks
Sorry about that...didn't see this till now.
I put an eye bolt through the headrest mount adjacent to the camera, and attached the camera's hand-hold strap directly to it.

As far as the SCCA rules, this is all that's in the rule book (2010 rules):
Quote:
3.3.3 Safety Inspections
B. Inspection Requirements
3) Any cameras, if installed, must be securely mounted to withstand loads from driving maneuvers. The camera may be installed either inside or on the outside of the car. In either case, its mounting meth-od and position must not interfere with driving or pose an additional hazard to driver, passenger, or course workers.
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Old 04-05-2010, 10:06 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1-ST View Post
Unless you're afraid of putting some reasonable wear on the expensive tires on the car, you shouldn't worry about that yet. Odds are that size wouldn't be any faster that what you have now, unless you paid enough to get sticky tires.
A better investment would be seat time. Get the schedules for the year of the 3 or 4 closest other clubs, put it all on a calendar, and see which ones you might be able to make. If you must buy tires, get something affordable in a stock size and try to destroy them with as many events as possible. You'll probably run a year or two before tires are relevant.

An experienced driver will gain a second or so from sticky tires. A good launch is worth a few tenths of a second. Experience is worth several whole seconds. A rookie can learn bad habits with great tires, while things you learn on bad tires will still apply later to sticky tires.
i'm going to attend every event the utah region has this season, as for the others "around" here they're way too far for me to make. (different state) i absolutely know seat time is the best thing money can buy for a novice but the lightweight wheels and good/decent tires were on my list even before i started to race. so i'm getting them sooner then later and i just want opinions on them.

currently i have svt wheels 17x7, w/ budget no name tires.. they have no traction what so ever, it feels like my car can handle a ton better then the tires are allowing me to.. i understand slower is faster but i don't want to turtle it out there.

star specs are on my list right now for a good "street" tire. i won't be putting them on my svt wheels since my car is a daily driver, and i want good all seasons on those. (i have winter wheels and tires too!)

thanks for the advice guys. keep it comming, i'm all ears.

WD40, thanks for the info, at both events i've gone to they don't hassle me about the camera mount which BTW works AMAZING! thanks for the idea!!
one suggestion for you or those that use it, mount it all the way across both seats if you can, or just mount it on the drivers side, it reduces the vibration big time. (assuming you guys have aftermarket motor mounts)

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Old 04-05-2010, 11:03 PM   #15
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As long as you have the crap tires on all 4 corners, use the reduced grip to balance the car through the rear swaybar. That way, when you have nicer tires, you will know how to control the car when it loses grip, and it will be balanced, mostly. Then you can change the handling as nessasary through tire pressures.

A balanced car with no grip is a blast, by the way. Its like racing in one of the pre-aero GP cars.
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Old 04-06-2010, 12:10 AM   #16
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i dunno, i'm gonna play around with different tire pressures next race.
probably won't have to as much. i hear this next course is GRIPPY.
so stoaked.

when having to make a 90 degree turn, is it, hit the brakes leading in hard turn the wheel while braking? then straighten up and gas it?
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Old 04-06-2010, 12:26 AM   #17
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Id gas it coming out of the turn, because it will pull you straighter.
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Old 04-06-2010, 04:18 AM   #18
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Absolutely get all your braking done in a straight line. Any understeer is lost time. Roll into the the gas smoothly after the apex.
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Old 04-06-2010, 04:37 AM   #19
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The best thing you can do is practice. The way I get good is the one local track has a low key autox which depending on how many people show you can get 10 to 20+ runs. Also there are plenty of experienced people and they also have a driving instructor there.
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Old 04-06-2010, 08:11 AM   #20
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Things to remember on a 90 degree turn:
Know what’s after the turn (straight, slalom, another 90)
Slow in fast out
Late Apex

Standard approach: 100% braking in a straight line, turn in for a late apex, roll onto the throttle just after the apex to power out of the turn

Intermediate approach: Start braking in a straight line, turn in while releasing brake pressure (trail braking) to help the car rotate, roll onto throttle same as above.

Advanced approach: I haven’t mastered left foot braking, but it will help you brake later into the corner, rotate the car, and keep weight on the front wheels to reduce understeer and apply power out of the corner. At least that’s my understanding. What you get is induced throttle off oversteer, with accelerated forward weight transfer. This forces the front tires to bite hard giving you lots of grip up front and allowing the rear to rotate. To stop the rotation you mash the throttle and it will straighten right out.

So work on the standard approach (I’m still at this stage most of the time) until you can nail the proper apex every time. Also work on hitting the right entry speed so you don’t understeer and loose time at corner exit. Once you get your line and entry speed right, then work in some trailbraking on really tight corners were you need some extra help rotating the car.
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