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Old 02-05-2010, 04:15 AM   #1
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Rear Drum brake awfulness

So, About 1500 miles back I replaced my wheel cylinder due to failure. A little while later, I started getting some noise from that wheel and figured i overtightened the hub and the wheel bearing was going. No big deal, I'll get to it.

The car recently started having a agrinding noise from (I think) that wheel, along with more heat production. When the grinding comes, it can be strong enoguh to physically sway the car to one side or another....in short it feels VERY unsafe. I swapped in an autozone new Drum+wheel bearing assembly, and the heat production is now through the roof. Grinding remains.


This has to be my shoes being adjusted wrong, right? I can't think of anything else - is there anything else back there that would cause an issue?

At my wit's end.


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Old 02-05-2010, 04:40 AM   #2
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I should add the grinding and pulling is CONTINUOUS while driving - even when I am not on the brakes at all it persists.
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Old 02-05-2010, 05:34 AM   #3
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sounds like you have a problem with the brake dragging on that one wheel. thats the only thing besides a completely buggered up wheel bearing that will cause any amount of heat production back there. pull the drum off and inspect the shoes for wear. compare one side to the other. it could be the e-brake cable needs adjustment or the whatchamacallit thingy that pushes the shoe onto the drum when brake pressure is applied is stuck or something is just up with it. its the small cylindrical thing on the top between the shoes when you have the drum off. for the life of me i cannot remember what its called. right on the tip of the tongue... crap. im sure somebody will tell me what im talking about.
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Old 02-05-2010, 06:29 AM   #4
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Brake adjuster
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Old 02-05-2010, 06:33 AM   #5
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thats not what that darn thing is called is it? im sure its called something different from that. or maybe im just starting to loose it due to sleep deprivation... yep time for me to put the computer to bed and me try to catch 40 winks on the couch...
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Old 02-05-2010, 07:22 AM   #6
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^^^^^There's an automatic brake adjuster back there. It should be loosened up slightly before reinstalling the drum. After you get everything back together and the drum/wheel tightened down, you work the emergency brake a few times, and pump the brake pedal. The adjuster should then be in the correct position.

At that time with the wheel off the ground, it should spin freely without dragging the brakes. When you pull up on the emergency brake handle, the handle should tighten up at about 1/3 the way up. When you loosen the handle...the rear brakes should not be dragging the wheel at all. If it does...everything will heat up.

This is generic information....most cars with rear drums work this way.
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Old 02-05-2010, 08:18 AM   #7
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Thanks guys, that is clearly my problem. To open the adjuster is a prying motion, right? And the e-brake connection - should this be disconnected/reconnected or freed up at the drum? most of the procedures I have seen regarding the e-brake adjustment focus on the adjustment at the handle.


I'm not sure I will be able to drive much this weekend anyway with the blizzard about to engulf us in the mid-atlantic.
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Old 02-05-2010, 10:40 AM   #8
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Relevant stuff for future people running searches:

http://img102.imageshack.us/img102/8...rdirectol4.jpg

http://www.focusfanatics.com/forum/s...ke+adjuster%22
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Old 02-05-2010, 11:04 AM   #9
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I'm curious as to how you slid the rear drum on if your e-brake was still on, don't tell me you used a hammer.
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Old 02-05-2010, 11:55 AM   #10
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My E-brake was not on. I did have to push decently hard but I thought it was bearing tightness. All that bench pressing comes in handy I guess.
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