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Old 01-11-2010, 03:17 AM   #1
tb1999
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Post My D23 Engine Build for 2011 race season.

OK Fanatics, its time to start building my new engine for the 2010 racing season.

Last year I qualified for an SCCA competition license, and ran in two highly modified classes with basically a stock D23. This was because I had swapped a D23 into my 05 ZX3 and added rear discs, so I did not qualify for the "Improved Touring" or "IT" classes. I did not win any events, but had a great year.

For 2010, to be semi-competitive in my chosen class (STU - "Super Touring - Under" which is for vehicles with less than 3000 CC's) I'll need bigger brakes, less weight, more grip and more HP!

I have left the stock motor in the car for now, and I am in the process of building a new highly modified D23 using a donor motor I purchased in boxes last summer. Since I have now dropped off the block lower end at the machine shop, and have started working on the cyl head porting, I'm ready to begin this thread.

My objective is to have 200WHP, with a good broad torque curve. Now before everyone starts shouting out ideas, and the "been there, done that" discussion, I have a unique challenge due to class rules.
I MUST USE THE STOCK IM AND TB!!!!!
OK so here's the plan.

The donor motor I purchased is already studded with ARP bolts, and came with a ranger crank and celvite bearings. Aside from that the whole bottom end is going to be new.

Cosworth Rods and Supertech 11.6:1 Pistons. It looks like the block needs to be bored due to some surface rust in the cyl I don't like, so these will be 20 over pistons. The ranger crank looks good, and should be ok after the journals are polished. This will save money since I can use the standard bearings that came with the donor, and I won't have to pay for grinding the crank.

Donor Engine


Rods




Ranger Crank


The supertech pistons are being ordered on Monday, they will be shipped directly to the machine shop. (RPM Performance Engines in Westwood, NJ) After all the machine work is done and I have everything back home, I'll take more pics of the lower end as the assembly begins.

The crank will get polished, block bored and honed/sized for the pistons, and the whole thing will get balanced to ensure we can turn 8000 RPM with no problems.

I have been using engine SIM software and I am working to have peak HP near 7500 with 8000 redline. I'm also trying to optimize for avg TQ between 4500 and 6500, and if my cylinder head is efficient enough, using a custom cam with .550/.530 lift (in/ex) and moderate duration, the simulation predicts numbers close to this graph using the stock IM and TB, with 98 octane fuel.



As the build progresses, and I can fill in more accurate details about manifold dimensions, and flow rates for the modified head, I'll re-run these numbers to see if we can squeeze a little more HP from her. Obviously if I run 112 octane race fuel, I can run more spark in the calibration, and these numbers will improve a touch. While I do plan on running the race fuel, I'm setting the baseline for engine output assuming a lower octane fuel which is more readily available.

BTW, if you check out my post in the dyno thread, you will see how well I preped the stock engine with just a TB, Header, CAI, Cat back, and my custom tune. This is going to be a much bigger challenge.


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213 whp / 160 wtq D23 NA with stock intake and TB.

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I like the same qualities in women and pistons; Lightweight, fast, and with the smallest skirts possible...
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Old 01-11-2010, 04:08 AM   #2
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Cylinder head options.....

OK, so we need to have a good flowing cyl head. My "off the shelf" options are as follows.
  • Cosworth Race Head > $2500 - $3000 (NOT IN THE BUDGET)
  • Massive Approx $1500 (I might have done this, but I have brakes, wheels and tires to buy this year also)
  • FRPP CNC Head Approx $900 - Not a bad deal, but I need a better low cost option....
  • DIY (about $250 plus time and labor, see below)

OK, so first I need to build a flow bench. To do this right I'll need a calibrated flow meter, vacuum gauge, a blower fan that can flow at least 600CFM and some parts to fabricate connections.

On ebay I found a used MIL Spec airflow measurement device for about $100 Shipped.

Home Depot online shows a 3 speed stanley blower that moves over 1100 CFM for only $50

I have an accurate vaccum gauge/Mercury Manomometer from the carb balance kit I used on my motorcycle.

For about $100 I can buy the loose parts and hoses etc to contruct the fittings/connections to affix the blower, meter and vac gauge to the head for flow testing.

So since I'm crazy enough to take a daily driver and turn it into a full blown road racer, why are you shaking your head about my ideas about building a flow bench?

Anyway, if this project fails, I sell the meter on e-bay, but the blower in my garage to cool off hot engines when I need to, and toss the other parts. MY risk is about $150 and some time.

Then I go to "plan B" and cough up the cash (or plastic) to purchase the FRPP CNC ported 2.3L head for $900 anyway.....

So when the items above arrive, I'll begin consruction of the flow bench. (yes I'll make another thread for that) For now, I have done a basic port job on one of the cylinders in my donor cyl head.

Since the D23 head already flows well, and I have ro run a stock IM and TB, I'll only be looking for improvments to port shape and flow, not increasing the size of the ports.....

My Ideas for improvement, starting with intake ports:






The Finished Intake Ports:











The exhaust ports are pretty much the same situation.

Before:





WIP: Working with a dremel tool using several different style bits, and at times my fingers and good old fashioned emery cloth....





The Finished Ports:









View of Intake And Exhaust:



When the flow bench is done, I'll take some readings off the 3 stock, unmodified ports, and compare to my handy work here.

If I can get between 15% and 20% gains, I'm good to go. If not, I'll have another crack at the work on this cylinder, if it moves in the wrong direction on the second attempt, the project will get scrapped, and i'll place my order for the FRPP head.

BTW, regardless of which head gets used, I'll be running oversize (+1MM) valves, either from Crower, or Supertech.

After the final head is built/purchased, I'll have to finalize my engine simulations and select the custom cam profile to be built!
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213 whp / 160 wtq D23 NA with stock intake and TB.

Inventor of "The $0 Thunder Throttle" & "Focuzdax-7" brake swap.
I like the same qualities in women and pistons; Lightweight, fast, and with the smallest skirts possible...
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Old 01-11-2010, 08:13 AM   #3
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awesome, cant wait to see what it does.
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Old 01-11-2010, 08:28 AM   #4
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If you have to run the stock manifold and TB then making the head flow better isnt going to do a lot , the areas that could of helped low to mid lift you did nothing to and the head work you did makes you feel good but you wont see much gain from

You need to work on other places , leave the head as it is now , unshroud the combustion chamber 2 to 3 angle on the valves and back cut them then work on things like the manifold , good header , piping to the TB and I am not talking this "stuff" you buy from the west coast

The rods you bought were a big waste you could of got eagles then the money left almost paid for cams and the eagle rods would of been lighter and less rotating mass for the high RPM you shooting for and the eagles lasting just as long

With the compression your shooting for now your going to have to run higher octane race fuel you need to go to 12.2 to 12.5 and run the good race fuel , Nothing you can add NA will make more power then compression so make that your #1 factor and then choose the cams to work with the compression and the limited flow the stock intake and TB will have and leave the head as it is now

Building a flow bench is another waste that you could use the funds else where with a limited budget , you wont be able to read temp properly, velocity, and as most dont you need to flow your head with the intake and TB in place as this changes things BIG TIME and the header in place on the Exh side unless your just looking for bragging rights on flow numbers , I am saying this because I have a Super Flo flow bench and dyno to back all this up and know what it take to get "proper" readings off the flow bench that will add up when you get to the dyno

But all thats just my opinion

Tom
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Old 01-11-2010, 10:19 AM   #5
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Was wondering how long it would take Turbo Tom to chime in once I read the part about the flow bench

Liking what you're doing thus far tbTom and I'm very jealous of the sexiness that are those Cosworth rods.
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Old 01-11-2010, 12:33 PM   #6
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We interrupt this program to bring you the following announcement.....

Quote:
Originally Posted by 1turbofocus View Post
If you have to run the stock manifold and TB then making the head flow better isnt going to do a lot , the areas that could of helped low to mid lift you did nothing to and the head work you did makes you feel good but you wont see much gain from

You need to work on other places , leave the head as it is now , unshroud the combustion chamber 2 to 3 angle on the valves and back cut them then work on things like the manifold , good header , piping to the TB and I am not talking this "stuff" you buy from the west coast

The rods you bought were a big waste you could of got eagles then the money left almost paid for cams and the eagle rods would of been lighter and less rotating mass for the high RPM you shooting for and the eagles lasting just as long

With the compression your shooting for now your going to have to run higher octane race fuel you need to go to 12.2 to 12.5 and run the good race fuel , Nothing you can add NA will make more power then compression so make that your #1 factor and then choose the cams to work with the compression and the limited flow the stock intake and TB will have and leave the head as it is now

Building a flow bench is another waste that you could use the funds else where with a limited budget , you wont be able to read temp properly, velocity, and as most dont you need to flow your head with the intake and TB in place as this changes things BIG TIME and the header in place on the Exh side unless your just looking for bragging rights on flow numbers , I am saying this because I have a Super Flo flow bench and dyno to back all this up and know what it take to get "proper" readings off the flow bench that will add up when you get to the dyno

But all thats just my opinion

Tom


All generally good advice, but I can't run more than 12:1 compression in this class, and cannot modify the combustion chamber.

I know checking flow as a package will be more effective to determine/predict overall gains, but as I mentioned in the post, I am only looking for flow rates for the head to plug into the engine SIM software instead of guessing at the volumetric eff of the head.

Unless this Performance Trends SW is useless, which I doubt since it was written by a Ford (ex?) engineer, minor changes to flow in the head will generate moderate gains in mid range perf.

I'm not sure what kind of numbers you are looking at for con rod weights, these cosworth a-beam rods weigh only 495 grams, and last time I checked an eagle rod for D23 is about 565 grams.

So now that I've been given a somewhat irrelevant "been there, done that" lecture that I tried to proactively ward off, I respectfully request that your comments about "how to get this done" are kept to yourself.
This is not a thread ASKING how to do this, it's a thread about what I have decidced to do to make this happen. And when the job is done, the dyno will tell all, so untill the fat lady sings........

I have no idea how far I will get with this project, it's a bit of a whimsical idea and very unortohdox. I can see why you believe it's futile. It's mainly being done for my own enterntainment and education. If I just wanted to go fast, I'd hand over $8500 to cosworth to purchase the 250BHP D23 used in the Formula Atlantic series and do some OT/side work to pay the CC bill.

When I decided to put a tune in my car, I purchased the SCT PRP and did it myself with lots of trial and error, but in the end I'm making as much HP/TQ as any of the "experienced" tuners have done with similar engine mods. I also have traqmate GPS data that confirms the dyno data is accurate and not a fluke of the style dyno being used.

I bet you would have not advised me to go the DIY Tune route either.

How do you feel about doing wheel alignments with toe plates, tape measures and a homemade digital angle gauge for camber/caster? Waste of time? Guess what, it's just as accurate as a $40K alignment machine, just not as easy to work with, more time consuming, and you don't have a computer screen telling you which direction to turn the tie rod end. (but it does fit in a milk crate!)

Apologies to all, I now return you to your regularly scheduled programming.
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213 whp / 160 wtq D23 NA with stock intake and TB.

Inventor of "The $0 Thunder Throttle" & "Focuzdax-7" brake swap.
I like the same qualities in women and pistons; Lightweight, fast, and with the smallest skirts possible...

Last edited by ShamrockSVT; 01-12-2010 at 02:51 AM. Reason: spelling etc
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Old 01-11-2010, 12:46 PM   #7
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that's good! hahaha
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Old 01-11-2010, 01:57 PM   #8
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Cool build-up sounds like quite the project. I'm curious what your doing on the suspension side, but I guess that goes in a different area :D
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Old 01-11-2010, 06:06 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wrc_fan View Post
Cool build-up sounds like quite the project. I'm curious what your doing on the suspension side, but I guess that goes in a different area :D
The suspension has already had some custom work.

I had a friend of mine fabricate upper strut mounts that provides room for both camber and caster adjust with a total of about 4.5 deg or more negative camber. (Some race tires like 2 or 3 degrees, others work well with 5 degrees)

I had my koni yellows modified by True Choice in Ohio, they are one of the 2 Koni authorized service centers. They cut the tubes and rods down to my specs, and were revalved for my spring rates and unsprung wt give or take a few pounds since I expected to lighten things up this year.

I also did a coil over conversion, and the spring rates are pretty high, but not so high that it destroys wheel bearing like the guys who run 1000lb springs in the civics. It's still a somewhat compliant susspension.

The shock are just great, and I am running the 24MM adj H&R FSB ,and 28.5MM Steeda RSB, which gets you some good rotation, but makes the car a little edgy.

Since I'm making some improvments to areo with a splitter, skirts, and rear wing. (I picked up the North Viking wing from the white 2005 ZX3 FocusSport track car. >> HERE << ) it will probably help stabilize the car at high speed and settle her down a bit this year.


The only major suspension changes this year will be in the form of relocating the suspension pick-up points to reduce dive/squat. (allowed within 1" of factory in this class)

Of course the entire suspension currently has urethane bushings, but some of that may be swapped for spherical bearings, or torrington roller bearings etc. But custom work takes time and money, this may be delayed till 2011.

Do you think I should start a suspension thread too?
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213 whp / 160 wtq D23 NA with stock intake and TB.

Inventor of "The $0 Thunder Throttle" & "Focuzdax-7" brake swap.
I like the same qualities in women and pistons; Lightweight, fast, and with the smallest skirts possible...

Last edited by tb1999; 01-11-2010 at 11:40 PM. Reason: added lnik
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Old 01-11-2010, 06:13 PM   #10
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Keep us informed, and best of luck.
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