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Old 08-11-2004, 06:25 PM   #21
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much apreciated. and angel, near the seat belts. i have a sedan but the rear is not dif i do not think. just tryin to find where you are locating.
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Old 08-11-2004, 06:32 PM   #22
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Ok, this might be a long post but here goes.....

With any LED application the main goal, or at least IMO, is to 'hide' the light rods. You want to make it so you don't see the actual LED, you want to see the 'glow' from them. Under the dash is easy (zip straps/ties will be your best friend) and the same goes for the rear passenger floor ones (you can zip them to the back bottom frame of the seat. Just make sure the rear passengers don't like playing 'footsies' with the bottom of the seats. So we got to where you should probably install the tubes. Best thing to do with hiding wires is to run them under the carpet if possible or in this case it will be easier to just run them along the center console. You can remove the entire center console very easily, a few screws here and there (two in the cup holders) and one in the back cup holder (hidden by a little cover you can pry up). If you have an armrest you have to remove that first, then there are some screws inside there I think, can't remember but it's very very basic dismantling of the center console. If anyone installed their own short throw shifter they know what I am talking about.

Anyway, once you get that all out of the way, run the wires from the back tubes up under the seat rail (very important cause you don't want to 'slide' the seat back over the wires) and up towards the center console. You can then run the wires up between the seats. Make sure you keep the wires away from the shift linkage and anything else in there. Use zip straps to tie them to other 'things' along the way to keep the wires in place. If the wires are not long enough, all you need to do is get a similar type wire (same gauge, if you don't know what I mean, take the led and wire down to an automotive shop, tell them what you are doing and they will help you find the right wire). You will also need some 'butt connectors', yes that is what they are called for the same gauge wire you have. A wiring tool (used to crimp the butt connectors and to strip back the rubber around the wire) works awesome right about now but you can always do it the Canadian way (not recommended) and use your teeth to strip the wire and use some old pliers to crimp the butt connector. Anyway...lol... you get the idea. If the wire is to short, strip back about a 1/4", little less of the rubber on the LED wire and do the same on the new wire. Slide the stripped LED wire into one end of the butt connector and then slide the stripped new wire into the other end. While holding them in the butt connector (make sure the rubber is flush with the ends of the butt connector so you don't have the possibility of shorting it all out) and crimp the butt connector at each end then at the middle. When you crimp it, the steel shaft inside the butt connector compresses and 'traps' both ends of the wire inside and also cause it's steel, can conduct electricity between the two. Anyway that is how to extend the wires. Now to the fronts.

Same as the backs, get all the wires run to where you want, eventually you want all the wires run up together to the same spot near the front near the cup holders but below them. Find out where you want the switch to go and use the amount of wire you need, plus a little extra to get the switch to that spot. Also, wherever you are planning on putting the switch or switches is up to you (I still recommend putting them in the fuse panel door on the dash just below the headlight switch on the drivers side and I also recommend using one switch for all the interior lights) but anyway, you are going to want to run the postive LED wires together (if your using one switch) and if your using two, run the two front LED postive wires together and the two back LED postive wires together (twist them together). Next, you are going to want to wire ALL the negative LED wires together and ground them in the same place. Easiest would be to find another ground wire and splice into that ground (usually you can just unscrew the screw or bolt holding it down and wrap the wire around it). What you want to have is all the ground wires twisted together. You can buy an 'end' to put on the wires that are twisted together (electrical pieces, you can buy them where you buy the wire) there is one that has a ring of steel and a plastic end piece that is what you would crimp after you slip it on the ends of the twisted wire (called a ring terminal). You want to basically get a good ground, if you make your own, scrape the paint off the metal surface so that there is a metal to metal contact with the ring terminal on the twisted wire and the steel of the car. Use a self tapping screw and your done. You can also ground it to the battery (negative terminal '-') or like I said and the preferred way, find a ground to ground it to that is already there. Anyway.... lets sum things up so far....

You got your ground in place, you got your positive wires twisted together. You need to connect the positive LED wires to the switch. Most switches it doesn't matter what end you put the positive LED wires on. If you use a 'lighted' switch you will have three terminals (PM me if you need to know about that) but anyway, attach the LED wires to the switch (using those typical electrical wire ends (also depends on the switch. You can also solder them on to the switch as well, there are many ways. Once that is in place (if one switch, all LED postive wires to one terminal on the switch) and (if two switches, two LED front positive wires twisted together to one terminal on one switch and the two LED back positive wires twisted together to one terminal on the other switch).

Anyway so what you have now is all the LED wires are hooked up to something. You got all the LED negative wires grounded together to the chasis and you got the LED positive wires run to the switch or switches.

Now you need to get power to the LED tubes.... ok finger break... back in the next post.....
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Old 08-11-2004, 06:43 PM   #23
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Now you need to get power to the LED tubes. You can do this two ways. The first way, you can run a wire directly from the battery. All you need is a ring terminal, like the same kind you used when you ran the ground, some wire of course and an inline fuse (not sure how big to get, maybe ask the shop guy when you go to buy the wire and all that other stuff). You will want to feed the wire though the firewall, there is a rubber grommet that will have wires going from the engine bay into the inside of the car, you will have to find it and basically what you want is to run the wire though from the engine bay. Obviously like I stated, your batter would be unhooked before you do this. Anyway, attach the ring terminal to the wire (1/4" or less stripped wire pushed into the ring terminal and then crimped) and then the ring terminal to the bolt holding the 'vehicle wires' to the positive terminal on the battery but don't connect the battery back up to the terminal til the end, got it. Next run the other end of the wire about maybe 12"-15" away from the battery and install the inline fuse using butt connectors. It should be common sense by now how to use those. You might also want to put some wire loom (plastic cover over the wire to protect it) and zip strap it in place away from any other components under the hood. Once that is done, run the wire coming out of the other side of the inline fuse through the firewall and up to the other terminal of the switch. Mount the switch, get all the wires all zip strapped securely out of the way. Then go and connect the battery and 'test' your new LEDs. If they work, put the console back together and you should be done.

Next post will be how to wire the power up through the fuse panel.....
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Old 08-11-2004, 06:48 PM   #24
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If your going to pull in power from the fuse panel under the dash (which works also) you are going to probably have to do some research as to which fuse to 'tie' into. You might want to ask SA_PYRO_NE who is the moderator for the car stereo (ICE) section of this board. Anyway, whatever fuse you do tie into, you can use a male (yes male and female come into play here) terminal onto the end of the LED postive wires. That wire will be 'jammed' for the lack of a better word in where the fuse under the dash goes into the groove it sits in if that makes sense. I have seen some people put an inline fuse in between the LED postive twisted wires and the male terminal before also.

Honestly, I always just run power from the battery cause I don't like 'tapping' into the fuse panel. It does work but I prefer not to do it. To be honest, maybe ask someone else how to do that one. I have done it before like I posted above but like I said, I prefer to just not mess with the fuse panel and just run straight from the battery.

Hope this helps or give you a good idea anyway. My fingers are killing me from all the typing and I am sure I could have just found a link on the net somewhere but this one is geared to what you are actually planning on doing. Anyway, post back if you have questions and if anyone wants to add anything else to this, please feel free.....
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Old 08-11-2004, 06:54 PM   #25
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looks good, love the mini-series format. reading it it is kinda still out there for me cuz i am not electricly inclined but i printed it and am going to get help from a friend who is into electrical stuff, so it should be fine. thanks alot and a lil ice, tape, and elevate on those sore fingers! ;)
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Old 08-11-2004, 06:55 PM   #26
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Just reading over what I posted and there are some 'gaps' in the information.... hard to type all that at once..... see if it makes sense and I will try to edit it, everything is listed as far as I know, rereading it right now but the 'process' is off.....

Like I said, it's going to be a LONG email!!
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Old 08-11-2004, 06:55 PM   #27
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Thank you soo much for all your help S2! Now maybe I could actually get this done sometime.

I do have a few questions though:
1. Were could I get all the stuff I need to do this project besides the LEDs?? Like the extra wires, the switches, the butts, the rings, all the stuff you said we needed.
2. What would be a good length for the LEDs for under the dash on both sides and either under the seats in the back or next to the seats in the back???
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Old 08-11-2004, 06:58 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally posted by XfocusX
looks good, love the mini-series format. reading it it is kinda still out there for me cuz i am not electricly inclined but i printed it and am going to get help from a friend who is into electrical stuff, so it should be fine. thanks alot and a lil ice, tape, and elevate on those sore fingers! ;)
The basic idea is there, it's just hard to type it all without being there and depending on the readers knowledge, that also comes into play. To simplify....

All LED negative wires together and grounded to the car.

All LED positive wires to one terminal on the switch

Run power (from the battery) to the other terminal on the switch with an inline fuse in that wire.

OR

Run power (from the fuse panel) to the other terminal on the switch and done (or wire in an inline fuse but ask someone else about this cause I did it the other way).

DISCONNECT THE BATTERY BEFORE ANY WIRING. It's a must, no butts about it plus it's the safest way to do it also.
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Old 08-11-2004, 07:04 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally posted by PreciousAngelJS25
Thank you soo much for all your help S2! Now maybe I could actually get this done sometime.

I do have a few questions though:
1. Were could I get all the stuff I need to do this project besides the LEDs?? Like the extra wires, the switches, the butts, the rings, all the stuff you said we needed.
2. What would be a good length for the LEDs for under the dash on both sides and either under the seats in the back or next to the seats in the back???
Question 1

You can get the wires and all the 'terminals' at any automotive store like NAPA or whatever they are called in the states, they all have them. The terminals and butt connectors come in packages of 6 to 10 or more and are really cheap, like a couple bucks if that for a package. The wire depending on what gauge you need is also very cheap, few bucks and as far as length of wire, you sorta have to guess. Better to get more than less cause you want to have enough 'play' in the wires to hide them and secure them with the zip straps (you know what those are right?)


Question 2

I got 8" neon tubes under my dash right now and they fill the entire floor area really nice. My friend has 12" LED tubes (think that is the length) and they are almost to big. I would go for something about 8" and you could always measure the area under the dash also. Make sure you put the tube up high above your feet so you don't snag them with your shoes, boots, toes, etc....

You can probably also use an 8" for the back also, just take a tape measure and measure the seat width where you are planning on mounting the LED tube. Also, put it under the seat right near the back where it goes up. You don't want the tubes in the middle under the seat, you know what I mean. I also seen someone mount them to the bottom of the back seat but that way you will see the 'tube' and to me that sucks. I like the 'hidden' installation way better.
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Old 08-11-2004, 07:08 PM   #30
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LoL! sorry for all the questions especially if your fingers hurt. I should just d/l Yahoo really quick and talk to you on there. but neways

Where did you get your 8 inch? They only have 6 in and 12 in from where I was gonna order them online?? And where would you install them in the back? I was thinking under the back of the front seats at first, but as I said then I discovered the lil space next to the seats, only prob is that they tubes probably would show there too.....?
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