2000 2.0 SOHC SPI Auto swap to 2.0 DOHC Z Auto ? Bolt in? - Ford Focus Forum, Ford Focus ST Forum
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Old 12-10-2009, 03:08 PM   #1
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Question 2000 2.0 SOHC SPI Auto swap to 2.0 DOHC Z Auto ? Bolt in?

Bought a 2000 wagon with a totaled 2.0 SOHC SPI Auto. Will any DOHC bolt in? Can buy a used DOHC for about the same $$$ as a SOHC. Can I get lucky here?
Thanks. jay


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Old 12-10-2009, 03:21 PM   #2
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Its a little more involved that just bolting it in. you need the wiring harness as well as a few other pieces IIRC. I'd just go with the SPI it would be an easy swap then.
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Old 12-10-2009, 07:27 PM   #3
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yes you would need the ecu and the wiring harnesses. everything else is the same including the trannies
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Old 12-12-2009, 02:02 AM   #4
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Trannies? No no no, they are not the same. However, if you beleive they are then i got an IB5 tranny sitting in the garage i can sell you! haha

Your going to want the Motor, motor mount for the pass. side, tranny, ecu then your set sir
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Old 12-12-2009, 09:05 PM   #5
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no all auto focuses use the 4f273 trannies. well the '00-'04's at least. i know i have a spi tranny on my girlfriends zetec motor right now. the autos are the same, the manuals however are not. the zetec uses a mtx-75 and the spi uses the aforementioned ib5. auto to auto you are safe using the same tranny.
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Old 12-13-2009, 12:45 AM   #6
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excuse me 4f27e tranny
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Old 12-13-2009, 04:35 AM   #7
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Did i mention i got a spare IB5 in the garage for sale!?!?! I think i did, just slaper on there
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Old 12-13-2009, 04:31 PM   #8
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Auto's are the same. I forgot about the ECU. I'd just get another SPI though and keep driving it.
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Old 12-20-2009, 01:40 AM   #9
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Just completed swap project

O.K., I just finished swapping my SPI (dropped valve seat) to a Zetec. I have a '00 wagon and I decided I didn't want to put another engine in that was prone to dropping valve seats. So with all certainty I can say that yes, the ATX transmission will swap between the two engines. However, there is much more involved than just swapping the engine, ECU, and wiring harnesses. The following is a list of things I had to swap during the conversion and is not necessarily all inclusive:

Motor (obviously).
Pass. side motor mount & black support bracket (I swapped the mount and not the bracket and couldn't figure out why everything wouldn't line up).
ECU.
ECU wiring harness (splice in to the rear of the wires running under front pass seat, otherwise you'll have 3 GRN/BLK wires to figure out where they go before you can solder them up).
ATX wiring harness (connectors are different for alternator & rear O2 sensor).
A/C compressor.
A/C line segment that attaches to compressor.
Throttle cable (different connector to TB).
Cruise control cable (different length).
Fuel line from firewall to fuel rail.
Flex pipe.
MAF to TB intake piping.
All cooling hoses & plastic piece on front cross member.
Fuel inertia shut off switch (different connector... or you could cut & splice).
Power steering line from pump to steering rack.

I think that pretty much covers it, as long as you get an engine that has an alternator, starter (with wiring), and CAT included. After doing this swap, I would recommend that if you are going to go through that much work to your vehicle, you might as well just fork out the extra $$$ to get the transmission (and the wiring harness for it) already attached to the engine and go to a Duratec setup. Just my opinion, but you might be happier with the results. Or you could always get a rebuilt SPI. Your call, but I can say it was a fun learning experience for me. If you have any questions, please feel free to PM me.

I hope this helps someone else trying to decide if this is something that they would like to do or not. I looked all over the internet to see if anyone had actually done this and what was involved, but couldn't find anything concrete, so here you go.

Last edited by Focus_Happy; 01-28-2010 at 01:15 AM. Reason: Found that original cruise control module works with new cable.
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Old 12-20-2009, 10:28 AM   #10
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ECU wiring harness (splice in to the rear of the wires running under front pass seat, otherwise you'll have 3 GRN/BLK wires to figure out where they go before you can solder them up).
Why bother splicing wires, when you can drop the gas tank down a few inches by removing just one bolt, and plugging the wires in on top of the tank, and fishing the rest to the back of the tank where they plug in. It is way easier, and less chance of electrical problems later. I have changed out at least half a dozen of these, and it is really easy once you look closer at it.
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