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Old 12-04-2009, 08:36 PM   #21
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This was the first time for me so I guess I have about 1.8 yrs left ebfore the next one if I am correct.
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Old 12-04-2009, 08:38 PM   #22
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I need it to be good enough for Tom so if that loaction is good enough for him for tunng it should be okay for now. This location will not be its permanent home either way.
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Old 12-04-2009, 09:03 PM   #23
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did you say "bung"???

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Old 12-07-2009, 09:14 PM   #24
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maybe....
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Old 12-08-2009, 07:06 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by toeycrack View Post
i would recommend putting the sensor BEFORE the CAt. I was told this buy a fellow SCT tech. and a AEM tech. reason is, installing after the cat will cause the reading to flux. you won't get a accurate reading. the flow of flume builds up in the cat and release a reading only a wack job can read.


when i had mine in my second o2, i had reading from 11 to 14..... and it should of really been around 11 to 12, 13 is getting close and 14 is past....


just my cent... but what do i know?

Sounds like a reasonable argument, but then how come a lot of dyno's have a probe that gets stuck in the tailpipe? That's post-cat as well.
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Old 12-08-2009, 08:51 PM   #26
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hmmmm
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Old 12-09-2009, 09:37 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ..:: sleestak ::.. View Post
but then how come a lot of dyno's have a probe that gets stuck in the tailpipe?
EGT just throwing it out there; i really have no idea.
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Old 12-09-2009, 11:21 PM   #28
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How is it that other manufacturers/cars can hang there cats below the car but our Focus have the thing in the friggin manifold. I.E. how can they get away with that? Is it tuning where they run a really lean mix at startup or something?
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Old 03-06-2011, 11:45 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ..:: sleestak ::.. View Post
Sounds like a reasonable argument, but then how come a lot of dyno's have a probe that gets stuck in the tailpipe? That's post-cat as well.
I read those are more for older muscle cars that didnt have cats.

My wideband is made by innovate and their forum group said i would be fine running the front sensor that is on the header as long as i use a home made heatsink. With the shielding over the mani-cat along with the home made sink it should stay cool enough. They said the wideband will throw a code if its running to hot and doing it once wont burn it up.

WHat im worried about is what soconfused said about it messing up the engine. Somthing about dumping in to much fuel or somthing because that sensor is not in there?

Ide prefer the #1 bung if the engine will run ok. If i have to use the second or third i just want to see what its doing for now.

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Old 03-07-2011, 12:53 AM   #30
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Lol! Ok, your not 'getting it'. let me try again. Your gauge measures the air/fuel ratio, it does not control it. Your air/fuel ratio is controlled by the sensor in (refer to your pic please) the number 1 bung hole. IF you remove that sensor, then your ECU (which controls your fuel injectors via input from the sensor in #1 hole) would have no reference to know how much fuel to add or subtract. I suspect that with no input, it would just keep adding fuel in an attempt to get some kind of reading (would it simply assume no fuel? That is what I am unsure about). Regardless, you car won't be able to run without sensor #1. Sensors #2,3 are for measuring the health of your catalytic converter. Note that sensor #2 resides right in the middle of it in the 'canister' portion (well, actually, that is an assumption as noone has ever taken one apart to know if it is in the cat or right before it. but based on it's location and the size of the canister make up your own mind). Regardless, it is a very poor location for a wideband as you want the exhaust gases flowing in close proxity to the wideband sensor. the canister is to big thus 'diluting' the mix. Hence, your only location left would be after the cat near #3. But as you already have a sensor stuck in the pipe at that location (assuming you keep it thus avoiding having to rig up a cheater), that leaves you with only the flex pipe or somewhere more 'downstream'. Typically, you would locate a wideband sensor in the collector of the manifold anyway (where the gases come together from the exhaust ports). So that is really your only option as regards the stock mani-cat.
Better?
add > I read what your wrote about heatsinking the wideband. Discounting that you cannot drill and tap a bung into the cast material, I think there wrong. See, aftermarket headers are made from tubular steel. Hence, they dissipate heat much faster than a cast unit. That being known, If you were to add a heatsink (such as a piece of copper on the wideband sensor), it would heatsink the entire cast portion of the upper manifold (as it is coolest, heat would flow to it). Tween you and me, that's a lot of heat. And if your sitting at a stop light, you don't even get the advantage of airflow. So without that, the wideband is going to cook.
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