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Old 08-22-2009, 03:03 PM   #1
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SVT cylinder head on a standard zetec block

First things first.
This is not a project for the newb, under-experienced or hack. This is a very technical modification and should be done by a professional. This thread is only a guide and by no means is it a how-to. If you feel it is beyond your capabilities please stick with your instincts and let a professional do the swap.




Parts you will need:

1 SVT water outlet housing, part # XS7Z-8592-AD
1 plug, part # 2M5Z-12A648-AA
1 SVT temperature sensor, part # 3L8Z-12A648-BA

You will also need the clips that hold the plug and temp sensor in place. I do not have the part # for these, call your local Ford garage for them.
(I improvised and used 2 E clips)

1 SVT valve grind set, part # 2M5Z-6079-CA or Fel-Pro # HS9005PT7 (Motorcraft set will have a MLS head gasket)

If you want a thinner head gasket you will have to buy a standard zetec one separately, do not use the standard zetec head set, it will not contain the proper gaskets.

You will need a VCT Eliminator kit from Tom (1turbofocus).
You can use stock zetec cam gears but adjustable ones are highly recommended (it'd be stupid not to IMO). You can not use the stock SVT intake cam gear.

You will also need the zetec timing tools. Usually available at most Ford Parts locations for under $30, or OTC part # 6486.

You will need new head bolts or ARP studs, ARP recommended (ARP part # 251-4702).

You will need the SVT cam position sensor merely to fill a hole.

If the head did not come complete you will need to source those parts as well, valve cover, valves, VCT Solenoid, etc.

This is the perfect opportunity to replace the water pump and timing set also. Do not reuse the old belt. The SVT head will make your engine an interference engine, meaning that if the belt breaks you will bend valves. It is best to have your head checked to make sure it has not been damaged prior to purchasing a used one, simple buyer beware.
The question 'what timing set do I buy?' will come up so. See post #5.







If you wish to go the brand new route,
SVT bare cylinder head part # 2M5Z-6049-AA
SVT exhaust camshaft part # 2M5Z-6250-AC
SVT intake camshaft part # 2M5Z-6250-AB
Valves, springs, retainers, keepers and tappets you will have to call Ford to get part numbers; you will need them as the parts from the standard zetec head can not be used on the SVT head.
This route must be professionally assembled to ensure proper cam journal clearances and tappet clearances.

You may or may not want to also use the SVT intake manifold. If you wish to:
SVT lower intake manifold part # 2M5Z-9424-AC
SVT upper intake manifold part # 2M5Z-9424-AB
SVT throttle body part # 2S4Z-9E926-AA
You will also need a SVT alternator bracket or will have to grind your stock one to fit the manifold. Explained here --> Click Me



The only problems you may run into are the water temp sensor and the intake cam seal.
The water temp sensor you will have to extend the harness and get the correct pigtail or DIY one. If you can't figure out how to DIY one it's best you buy the correct pigtail from Ford, they can be found here --> Click me

Here is my DIY method:






The intake cam seal must ride on top of the VCT kit, as so:






If it doesn't you have the wrong seal, as I did. You will have to use the correct seal or risk oil leaking and spraying all over, as I did.



If you choose to port the head here are a collection of thread relating to that:
Modified Magazine project Focus SVT
Roushturboedzx3's build thread
CasyE's build thread
iminhell's SVT porting thread

There are also very good articles that can be found through an internet search that should be read and understood before attempting any porting. If you don't know what you are doing do not attempt to port the head unless you are willing to take the chance.



You can use the stock zetec cam gears but it's recommended that you use adjustable cam gears (stupid not to IMO); and will help make getting the cams in proper time much easier, click here to find our why, VCT Delete instructions.



Specs

Tappet clearances and part numbers courtesy of CasyE
zetec bolt torque specifications



Other threads you should have already read are relating to how to set your cam timing and/or how to change the timing belt. How to change the water pump and anything else related to the zetec valvetrain components.



If anything is wrong or you have issue with anything contained in this post please do not hesitate to ask or bring the proper information to the attention of all of us. I will amend this post accordingly.



I'd also like to thank 1turbofocus and CasyE for their help with the problems I ran into.



My complete photobucket can be found here --> Click Me


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Last edited by iminhell; 08-23-2009 at 07:47 PM.
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Old 08-22-2009, 05:14 PM   #2
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so she's all done??? where's the dyno? lol!!
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Old 08-22-2009, 05:28 PM   #3
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curious to see what it would make with al bolt on and a tune!
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Old 08-23-2009, 05:10 AM   #4
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that is absolutely awesome. ive been told for quite awhile that this swap cannot be done without extensive heavy modification but you have clearly given me hope. excellent write up.
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Old 08-23-2009, 04:06 PM   #5
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Far as this picture shows the SVT does not have 2 timing idler pulleys:


(pic courtesy of carlingskie FJ)


I'm confused now. But going to try and add another idler anyways.


The ZX2 does have the second though:


(pic courtesy ZX2Fast teamzx2)



So proper timing belt components and tension are the only thing left for debate IMO.



*edit
Ran down to the parts store and did some digging.


The Contour/Mystique/ZX2 zetecs use a 2 timing belt idler pulley setup. In 2000 with the debut of the Focus zetec they switched to a 1 idler setup.
The 2 pulley setup uses a 131 tooth (1" wide 3/8" pitch) timing belt while the 1 pulley uses a 129 tooth (.975" wide 3/8" pitch). The 2 pulley can be switched to a 1 but a 1 can not (easily) be switched to a 2.
As far as the individual pulleys go,
The stock Focus pulley is 60mm x 10.4mm x 29mm (diameter, center hole, width).
The stock ZX2 pulley is 70mm x 10.4mm x 29mm

Bad news is the motor mount on the Focus will only allow for a 67mm pulley and that is with less than a mm of clearance on the backside.

So, if you have an issue with a loose timing belt like me we are up shit creek, lol.
My idea of adding a second idler is out, won't work due to the difference in belt length.
Can't run a larger pulley because it won't fit.
Seems I am left with either swapping mounts or grinding the stock mount to fit the larger pulley, and don't know if that will actually fit or cure my problem or if grinding from the mount will compromise it's integrity.

The reason I'm going through all this is my belt is a bit loose. Where I seem to get the best power I can not idle, I have no tune so this can be expected. I had .045" shaved off the head and am running the SVT (thicker) head gasket. Not that that minimal difference makes any consequence. The problem lies in that my tensioner can't handle the stiffer valve springs or the aggressive cam timing, it makes all sorts of racket as it tries to auto adjust. A new tensioner may cure it but I'm covering all my bases first. It works as is but the tensioner is maxed out and I have just a tad more play in the belt than I'd like to see.


I'm gonna sleep on this and see what I can come up with.
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Old 08-23-2009, 07:02 PM   #6
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oi since we are going down that road do you have any standard zetec heads in need of valves you might wanna get rid of for cheap john?
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Old 09-10-2009, 02:20 PM   #7
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Are you using svt intake? Will I have to get svt injectors and fuel pump if I go about this project? Also how is the focus zetec timing setup different than svt. I seen you describing the zx2, but just wondering what the svt setup is like on this project.

Curious: Is it possible to find a 128 tooth belt and run that?

EDIT: I went to AZ and found out the svt and zetec is the same size belt. Now I see your dilemma. Well good luck. And keep us updated.
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Last edited by disciplerocks; 09-12-2009 at 02:35 PM.
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Old 09-13-2009, 11:20 AM   #8
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I think if you got a new tensioner instead of going through all the hassle of doing a two pulley idler setup that may or may not work properly, you would be better off. I think even backing off the extra agressive timing a little would help you get her back together without as much pain.
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Old 09-13-2009, 06:01 PM   #9
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Guys I only mention my personal concerns so you are aware of them. I'm not going to go through and explain everything, remember this isn't a how-to.

It runs well on all the stock tensioner equipment, but I think it could be a bit better designed, the tensioner specifically (heavier spring and more adjustment).
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Old 09-13-2009, 06:11 PM   #10
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So you got it together? I wanna see this bad boy running.
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