How-To: FSwerks Front Lower Stress Bar Installation - Focus Fanatics
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Old 06-24-2009, 10:52 PM   #1
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How-To: FSwerks Front Lower Stress Bar Installation

I did a search for this when I bought the bar, and it didn't turn up a How-To so I figured I'd be the one to do it.



Part Installed: FSwerks Front Lower Stress Bar
On what: 2007 Ford Focus Stage 2 Turbo
Tools required:
  • 18mm and 22mm wrenches
  • 18mm socket
  • Breaker bar
  • BFH
  • Tools necessary to remove wheels (optional)
  • 1/2" Impact (optional)
  • 12pk Yeungling Bottles
Time: 30 minutes / 20 minutes with Impact
Effect: Much improved rigidity in the front. Less wheel hop and torque steer.

Since I am in the Army, I have the luxury of having a automotive skill center (do-it-yourself workshop) here on base. I understand that not everyone has that luxury and has to make do with what tools they have available, therefore I am listing the use of a 1/2" Impact as optional.

I would also like to apologize in advance for some of the pictures as they are not the best. I had a pretty bad glare on the camera.

1) I rented a lift and got the car off the ground.




These are the bolts that the bar bolts up to. For those of you running the FSwerks turbo kit, it may be beneficial to unbolt the charge pipe on the passenger side as it can get in the way of the passenger side bolt.



2) I took the front wheels off in order to get easier access to the control arm bolts. My lugs required a 12mm allen socket, but it's different for most. It is still possible to do this without removing the wheels, however, it is more difficult not having the freedom of movement and visibility.

3) I used the 18mm socket w/ the breaker bar on the bolt while using the closed end of a 22mm wrench to hold the nut in place on the back side of the control arm. I used the breaker bar to get the bolt loose and then used a 3/8" rachet to work it on out, because the charge pipe for the FSwerks turbo kit made it impossible to fit the impact in there. It may be easier for non-boosted setups. The control arm can fight back a little but it wasn't too bad.







4) Repeat the same process on the other side. I was able to use an impact on the driver side to remove the bolt.



5) Place the FSwerks front lower stress bar in place and run the bolts through on each end. You may have to wiggle the control arm a bit to make the bolt go through or use a hammer on the bolt (hence the BFH).

6) I used the 22mm wrench to hold the bolt in place again while using the impact or rachet to tighten the bolts back up. The bolts have to be torqued to 120ft-lbs.




7) Take a step back and marvel at your accomplishment. Then go take your fofo for a test drive and enjoy how stable the front end feels.





I noticed a difference after installing the stress bar. I found that the car is slightly more rigid and stable when taking sharp corners, however the biggest difference I found was in launching. The car sticks the ground much better, and the bar has almost eliminated the torque steer. The wheel hop, although still there, is considerably less, and I can shift first to second at 7k+ without torque steer or wheel hop. For the price, it's definitely a must have. I can't wait to take her out to the dragway and see how good the 60ft time will be. Thanks for reading.


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Old 06-24-2009, 11:12 PM   #2
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Here's also a couple other suspension mods I've done in the past week.

FSwerks Rear Stress Bar


Steeda Rear Sway Bar Kit

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Old 06-24-2009, 11:26 PM   #3
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Very nice write up. I plan on doing this in the future, and this will really help.
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Old 06-25-2009, 12:03 AM   #4
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I will add it to the Official How-To Archive on here, nice write up Byrce
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Old 06-25-2009, 12:54 AM   #5
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VERY nice write up.
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Old 06-25-2009, 12:30 PM   #6
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good job man
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Old 06-25-2009, 01:50 PM   #7
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Good job,I just did mine recently too...you should know if using NEW bolts,the Ford shop manual (I work for Ford) says torque to 159 ft lbs and this should only be done with the wheels LOADED and ON THE GROUND so you don't run the risk of tearing the rubber bushings.

I intially torqued mine with the wheels unsuspended to 89lbs (which I read on FSWerks site) then I loosened them while it was on the alignment rack here at work and re-torqued to 159 ft lbs,again...on new bolts.
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Old 06-25-2009, 02:03 PM   #8
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120ft-lbs is what is recommended with the stress bar. You don't need to torque the bolts to 159ft-lbs since the stress bar is reducing the movement of the control arms, which was the main purpose of the high torque setting without it.

Thanks for the comments guys.
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Last edited by SMITHBOY76908; 06-25-2009 at 09:44 PM.
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Old 06-25-2009, 02:21 PM   #9
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Excellent write-up. I could have used this a couple weeks ago... haha. =)

It does make a nice difference, doesn't it? See if you can get someone to weld those Steeda brackets for you, or you'll be getting some clunks.
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Old 06-25-2009, 07:54 PM   #10
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awesome write up, man!
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