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Old 06-17-2009, 06:56 AM   #1
talltim
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How to bleed (burp) the cooling system

I have a 200 zetec has been running warm (not over heating)Im having a hard time building pressure for some reason. I changed the thermostat mount and also replaced the thermostat with a 180. No leaks or water in oil so I doubt I have a bad head gasket. The link in the how to guide doesnt say much
http://web.archive.org/web/200708141...lingsystem.htm. Im thinking that it may just have an air bubble stuck in the system somehow. I've run the car with the heat on til it reads 207. I am thinking there may be a tool I can use to pull the air out of the system. When Im on the highway I see the temp go up unless I am coasting. Any ideas? I dont want to start thruing money at it as it is my daily.


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Old 06-17-2009, 08:03 AM   #2
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If you're running the car, you're circulating coolant unless the water pump is bad. Now generally bad water pumps will do one of two things: bang around like the engine is coming apart, or leak from the snout when the internal seals go bad.

I know it might seem crazy, but check or change your spark plugs. A cracked insulator in one spark plug will cause you to overheat.

More likely, your fans are not working. You should double check the fan operation. First, turn on the AC to max with the engine idling. The fan should come on. You should also check the fan relays and the fan fuses. Check your owner's manual for the location of these relays and fuses. If you have a digital multimeter you can check the fans themselves by unplugging the the fan connector and testing between the two pins on the cooling fan. If you get no resistance, then your fan is bad. Most likely it's the fan resistor or the fan pigtail that has been damaged. I'd look very closely at the fans before considering some voodoo problem like a bubble.
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Old 06-17-2009, 09:05 AM   #3
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If you're not building pressure, check/replace rad cap. if not, the impeller blades on the w. pump may (MAY, very rare) have disintegrated. this happened on a family car of mine some years ago.
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Old 06-17-2009, 09:25 AM   #4
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If you're running the car, you're circulating coolant unless the water pump is bad. Now generally bad water pumps will do one of two things: bang around like the engine is coming apart, or leak from the snout when the internal seals go bad.

I know it might seem crazy, but check or change your spark plugs. A cracked insulator in one spark plug will cause you to overheat.

More likely, your fans are not working. You should double check the fan operation. First, turn on the AC to max with the engine idling. The fan should come on. You should also check the fan relays and the fan fuses. Check your owner's manual for the location of these relays and fuses. If you have a digital multimeter you can check the fans themselves by unplugging the the fan connector and testing between the two pins on the cooling fan. If you get no resistance, then your fan is bad. Most likely it's the fan resistor or the fan pigtail that has been damaged. I'd look very closely at the fans before considering some voodoo problem like a bubble.
car isnt over heating. It gets hot but that is all. low speed fans click on about 210 and high speed comes on when ac is on. Hose out of the thermostat housing gets hot but it doesnt really seem to be under pressure.I would think the hose would have pressure in it when the car is hot (225) even if it had a bad water pump. Thermostat is a new 180 one and could be defective (I didnt try to boil it first) I also drilled the air bleed hole valve out just a hair 1/8 inch so that if there is an issue with the thermostat it would still cool. I think I will change the coolant tank cap; then test the thermostat and see what happpens. After that I will remove my underdrive pulley ( gonna be a bear to take off I dont know if there is room for a puller). If it is still running hot I may have to have it looked at by a professional. I havent heard of people having problems with underdrives on well maintained cars but that has been on my mind for a while
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Old 06-17-2009, 09:52 AM   #5
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Sometimes an air pocket can be very difficult to remove.....or even diagnose. Air pockets usually form in the heater core and lines. One way you can try......jack the front end upward as high as you can (I use a floor jack and block the rear wheels). Run the engine at a fast idle with the coolant cap off. Eventually you'll see bubbles in the tank, indicating some trapped air is being purged.

Worth a try anyway......afterward, touch both heater lines with the heater on and the engine idling for a while. Both lines should be about the same temperature.
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Old 06-17-2009, 09:58 AM   #6
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I didn't think about the cap, but that is definitely something that would do it. You could also have a damaged gasket that is allowing some water to pass between the chambers of the water pump so that it's not circulating as it should. This is not as rare as impeller damage, but still not fairly common. I'd go with a new cap first.

Fans at 210 is normal, then the high speed fans should kick on at 215 or so.

Have you tried washing the bugs out of your radiator? That won't help increase coolant pressure, but will help increase cooling. FL is horrible for bugs. If you think that there's a large number of bugs built up in the radiator or condenser, then you should plan to remove the radiator so that you can blast the condenser from the rear with a hose, and also blast the radiator from the rear with it on the ground. Small plastic pokers like zip ties can help push out stubborn bugs.

I have to do bug maintenance every once in a while myself, and I don't have near the number of bugs that FL has.

UDP's IMO are something that are better off on race cars instead of the reliable DD, but lots of people have good success with UDP's. I'd be a little less afraid of UDP's in a cooler climate. If I were you, I'd do everything else before changing out the UDP because you'll have to purchase a new belt to get a regular crank pulley to work- right? Why not go through the lower priced options first. After all, the UDP was working well for a while right?
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Old 06-17-2009, 11:12 AM   #7
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Im trying cap first. as far as bugs I dont visually have any and the car will actually get cooler when I get off the highway and Im driving a bit slower. I will try the radiator cap and also chec k and see it there is a fitting for me to use on the coolant take with my vacuam pump and see if there is a crack in the tank letting pressure out. Doesnt leak coolant. Also I think the focus has a single radiator core; maybe a idea in the future would be to see if I can get a 2 core one. Also does anyone make a electric water pump for a focus?
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Old 06-17-2009, 07:53 PM   #8
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It your getting hot air out your vents that generally means u dont have a air pocket.
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Old 06-18-2009, 11:18 AM   #9
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Well I get hot air from the vents when I turn the heat on. Update I changed the coolant tank cap and it is still at 220 + or so during my drive. It is over 90 in S florida right now so I am not sure I can do better now. However the hose from the thermostat housing still doesnt build pressure up so it may be a faulty thermostat. Its new but it could be bad. Maybe Ill just take out the inside of it and make it into a restrictor
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Old 06-18-2009, 07:26 PM   #10
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if you put ur t stat in a pot of boiling water it should open up, thats how i check mine
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