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Old 06-14-2009, 10:21 PM   #1
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Building bottom end - tips please

If you've seen my turbo build thread you know I'm not new to turning a wrench.
It just happens that I've never needed to crack open the bottom end of a engine for an overhaul.
In the upcoming weeks I'll be installing forged internals in my 2.0, after an overboost issue that left my rings a bit lacking. (it still runs)

I'll have some help from a friend who has rebuilt old VW Beetles engines so I'm not going in completely blind.

What I really need help with is a parts list - what I'll need for the build that I
might not think of.
I'm leaning towards a kit from F2 that includes pistons, rods, bearings etc for $945 here (link).
I'm open to suggestions, but Cosworth is out of the question.

My engine only has 32k miles on it. Should I need a head gasket?
The only thing I know it needs is rings.

I'm mainly going forged for the longitevity/reliability factor. I don't plan on going over 15psi.
What compression ratio would everyone suggest?
It's a daily driver. I don't want to go too low so it's not a dog when not in boost.
It sees far more time out of boost than in.

All comments, links, and tips appreciated.


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Old 06-14-2009, 10:39 PM   #2
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personally I think it really depends goals of the car. If your just looking to up the boost and be safe about it on a DD ..then you can do this for a pretty decent price.

F2 kit imo is kinda high priced, getting the stuff seperately will probally come out cheaper.

Eagle rods w/rod bolts = 300 shipped
Pistons can range from 350-700

Heres a decent deal, I'd prefer JE pistons over supertechs
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/JE-Pi...Q5fAccessories

Rod and crank bearings will set you back around 125 for a basic set, 150 for a premium set, and around 240 for something like cali-coated bearings.

Arp studs for the bottom end should be 75ish

Yes get a new head gasket, go with a OEM gasket. Seems everyone is having the best luck with them. Wanting to take the c/r down a notch (rough est .5 c/r) get a svt hg. CFM is a good place to get that.

Also get head studs, might as well while your there. I think they're a 100ish.

Front and rear seals in a fel-pro I think are both under 50.00

Depends your wallet, I'd do every gasket but the cam cover (because it can be changed later) I think all in all you can do it all for under 100 using fel-pro brand.

Thats all I can think of right now. Look to spend around 1200-1500 all said and done.
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Old 06-14-2009, 10:41 PM   #3
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Thanks, but I have a Duratec so a few of those recommendations may not be the same between engines.
I'll definitely check prices closer and look into JE.
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Old 06-14-2009, 10:43 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sporadic View Post
Thanks, but I have a Duratec so a few of those recommendations may not be the same between engines.
I'll definitely check prices closer and look into JE.
ha , I didn't think to look at that.

If I come across anything I'll post it up for ya.
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Old 06-14-2009, 10:47 PM   #5
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Also if anyone has experience with the 2.0 Duratec internals and knows which parts let loose first please chime in.
Such as if I can stick with stock rods and just go with forged pistons.
Not that I'm trying to go cheap, but I'm also not one to waste money when not necessary.

I mainly ask because even with an overboost episode the stock pistons/rods didn't let loose, the rings did.
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Old 06-14-2009, 11:43 PM   #6
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No you cant keep the stock rods

Forged Pistons / Go over size
Eagle Rods
ARP head and main studs
Stock gasket set / use the felpro seals much better then Fords
Squair the block there off
Stock oil pump

Thats all you should need

There is a lot of talk about bearings and so far its all BS , Just get some regular Clevite/ Mich77 bearings and your fine

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Old 06-15-2009, 12:41 AM   #7
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Thanks Tom. Why oversize?
Don't I need to bore the block for that?
I don't think I need to go to that expense for a block with 32k miles on it.
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Old 06-15-2009, 12:59 AM   #8
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I'd like some input on compression ratio.
I'm fine with the power I have/had, which was 204whp/224tq @ 10psi on 91 octane, unfortunately it nose-dived after 5200rpm.
I'm not sure whether it is the small turbo or a timing issue in the tune. Randy @ FS said tune.
I want to stick with 91 octane because that's common here instead of 93.
Of course I'd like to tune for a 93-95 octane tune for when I run it at the drag strip once a year or so.
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Old 06-15-2009, 10:21 AM   #9
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Yes i would deff bore and hone the block is not expensive at all do it right the first time. and 9:1 compression would be good for you
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Old 06-15-2009, 10:22 AM   #10
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If this is mostly a street driven car then I would do 9 to 9.2 compression , at some point you will be upping the boost

Yes do a new bore job and over size pistons with 32,000 wont matter what size you go to I just wouldnt do STD , it wont cost that much more

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