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Old 02-01-2009, 02:50 PM   #1
tb1999
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NOTE: This modification only works on 2007 and prior models with their cable actuated throttle body. 2008 and newer feature an electronically controlled throttle and will not accept this modification in this design or at this time.

Background:

Well the funny thing about this mod, is that I did not invent it for my personal use & I don't use it!

I purchased a CFM 67MM TB over a year ago, and since my long term goals for my vehicle include racing and going with a Cossie Intake Manifold etc, at the time of this writing I have a CFM67MM TB with a slightly oversized MAF, and CAI with a "Tumble Flap Delete" on my Stock Intake.

So why did I develop the "$0 Thunder Throttle? Well, a fellow member, NemesisEnforcer was having a real headache getting an aftermarket TB to work on his vehicle. So many of us tried to solve his problems over the forums, he rec'd 2 different units from the vendor and tried every trick we could think of to get his idle issues sorted out but he was forced to put his stock unit back on.

All aftermarket TB's seem to use a common design, regardless of TB size etc, the throttle bore is smooth, and the throttle plate is flat. With no restrictions, more air enters the engine as the throttle is initially opened, and the throttle response is improved.

On the OEM design, there are 2 features of the TB to restrict flow when the throttle is first cracked open to improve drivability for the average driver. A "ducktail" on the throttle plate, and a "ramp" inside the throttle bore.

Several persons have discussed the idea of removing the "ducktail" from the OEM throttle plate with a Dremel tool or file etc. This can be done but has limitations because the "ducktail" is not molded as a solid piece, and only a portion can be removed. The bigger concern is that if you slip or go too far removing material, then the throttle plate would have to be repaired with epoxy or glue, which can be risky if the epoxy comes off, you can ingest debris into the engine, and could have a racing idle all of the sudden creating a hazard on the road.

Later on I was looking at my OEM stock throttle that was laying around my garage. I was looking at how Ford designed the throttle plate and bore to limit the off-idle airflow as the throttle is first cracked open. In the factory orientation, the "ducktail" & "ramp" are located on opposite sides of the bore.

After a few minutes, I had an "Ah-ha" moment, and realized that IF the stock TB plate could be inverted in the throttle bore, placing both restrictions on one side, the other side would become completely unrestricted as it is on all aftermarket TB units.

This approach involves no complex modifications to the parts for potential damage, retains all the OEM characteristics for idle control and overall airflow rates etc.

Also there is an added benefit for those of us that use their Foci for a daily commute with manual transaxle in heavy traffic. Since this is only a "1/2" unrestricted throttle, this option is less "touchy" for take off when trying to balance throttle and clutch, especially on uphill grades.

Analysis:

Larger aftermarket throttle bodies will provide improved throttle response, but some owners, including myself notice that these units are a bit touchy in traffic. The unrestricted design provides the improved throttle response, but the larger diameter is mainly only beneficial when other mods have been done to the entire intake system like a Cossie IM, a larger MAF and most FI applications.

When considering TB options, keep in mind that the stock MAF housing is only 2.5" in diameter, or 63.5 MM. This is further restricted by the space taken up by the MAF itself, so would not expect to flow more air into a D'TEC engine at WOT using a 65 or 67MM TB if the vehicle is still using a stock MAF housing.

My custom MAF housing is 2.75" which is 69-70MM diameter, and my 67MM TB and Stock IM are the limiting points in my air intake.

(NOTE: I'm only able to run a larger MAF tube since I have a custom tune with correct MAF tables. Without a custom cal or some other mod to offset the increased airflow, a larger MAF will just make your engine run lean and probably not too much fun to drive. )

Conclusion:

Unless you are contemplating an entire intake system upgrade, for NA vehicles running the stock MAF housing, the main benefit for any aftermarket TB unit is the removal of the stock TB restrictions discussed above, not the increased size! The $0 Thunder Throttle will get you an enjoyable and more "traffic friendly" throttle response than an aftermarket unit, and should not impact WOT performance etc since it is "size matched" to the stock MAF!

Take the money saved with this $0 mod and go buy a sway bar or stainless steel brake lines, or put it towards your audio upgrades etc.


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213 whp / 160 wtq D23 NA with stock intake and TB.

Inventor of "The $0 Thunder Throttle" & "Focuzdax-7" brake swap.
I like the same qualities in women and pistons; Lightweight, fast, and with the smallest skirts possible...

Last edited by warneej; 08-04-2009 at 11:05 AM.
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Old 02-01-2009, 03:10 PM   #2
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Stock TB Design Pics:

Here's a few pics that reveal the stock TB design features and how this upgrade improves throttle response.

Tools and Supplies needed:


Torx Bit screwdrivers, or sockets. Sizes T-10, T-15, And T-20

Some throttle plate cleaning solvent, AKA carb cleaner type stuff, and a scotch brite pad.

Some Blue Loc-Tite thread locker or equivalent.

Some 2 part epoxy, like JB Weld or equivalent.

A 1/2" wood boring drill bit (or equivalent, see pics in this post)

A 1/16" or 3/32" standard drill bit.

A clean workbench with room for tools and parts with someplace to keep loose parts and screws from getting lost.
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Last edited by Lil_RedZX3; 02-14-2009 at 11:56 PM.
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Old 02-01-2009, 03:24 PM   #3
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Instructions Begin Here:

The pictorial instructions for this process are numbered, look for the green circle with pic # to ensure you are working in the correct order.

Steps that require extra finesse, care, or have a great impact on the final results will have a yellow warning triange in the lower right corner.

This procedure does not include pics or instructions for removal / installation of the TB.

These 5 pics show how to disassemble the stock TB once its on the workbench.
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Last edited by tb1999; 02-01-2009 at 03:28 PM. Reason: procedure correction.
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Old 02-01-2009, 03:27 PM   #4
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Cleaning the TB plate and housing:

After disassembly, clean all the carbon and sludge from the throttle plate and bore.......
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Old 02-01-2009, 03:33 PM   #5
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Remove Factory Epoxy To Free-up Throttle Stop Screw - Pt 1

These pics show how I carefully removed this epoxy without butchering the screw, or threads etc. Alternate tools and/or methods will work here, you just need to be able to adjust the throttle stop screw easily when you are done.
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Old 02-01-2009, 03:41 PM   #6
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Remove Factory Epoxy To Free-up Throttle Stop Screw - Pt 2

These pics show how I completed the removal of the epoxy.

NOTE:

It is very important to get enough epoxy out of this throttle stop screw, and threadded sleeve as seen in these pics.

If the torx bit cannot be inserted far enough into the screw, it won't have enought "bite" and the throttle stop screw can be stripped if you are not careful.

This can be avoided if the screw is properly cleaned, a few extra minutes here getting a good fit will save alot of trouble later.
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Old 02-01-2009, 03:51 PM   #7
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Assembling the "$0 Thunder Throttle" Pt1

Now you are ready to begin the reassembly steps. Since you are technically remanufacturing your TB assembly, you have to think like a manufacturer and pay careful attention to detail and quality. This is not a mere "bolt on" operation so you have to take responsibility for the fit and action of your throttle plate.

The pictures and instructions for assembly will help you get these settings right.

NOTE:

However, if you are not comfortable making semi-precise adjustments to mechanical assemblies, you might want to ask a buddy with a little more skills and patience for some help with this step.
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Old 02-01-2009, 03:55 PM   #8
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Assembling the "$0 Thunder Throttle" Pt2

The final steps are where you need to be patient and apply some finesse and care centering the throttle plate etc.

Don't forget to use the blue loc-tite and crimp the Stanless Steel throttle plate screws as shown to ensure the throttle plate remains secure and you have no risk of engine damage.

After you are happy with how the throttle is centered, in step #25 continue with the following steps to complete the bench work. The throttle may feel like its sticking in the bore right now, but we will adjust that throttle stop in a few minutes.......
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Last edited by tb1999; 02-01-2009 at 04:13 PM. Reason: added more details to throttle adj steps
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Old 02-01-2009, 04:03 PM   #9
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Final Steps and On-Car Set-up tips:

Almost ready to install on the car, after making the base settings, you'll be ready to insall the TB on the engine again.

Before bolting your TB back onto the manifold, just go over the throttle to ensure you are comfortable with the feel of the throttle motion. If you have correctly installed and centered the throttle, and made the base throttle stop adjustment, the throttle should operate as smoothly as any TB sold. If not something went wrong, tear it down, review the instructions and start over.

When adjusting the min RPM with the IAC disconnected, it's expected that the vehicle will stall at first, and you will need to open the throttle slightly with the stop screw.

IF the RPMs are too high before starting these on car adjustments, then either the engine, intake, throttle gasket has a vacuum leak, or something went wrong with your bench work. Also make sure the throttle and CC cables are not holding the throttle open. If unsure, try making these adjustments with these cables disconected.

After making your final "stop screw" adjustments, recheck the throttle action to be sure you did not back off the screw too far causing the throttle to stick in the bore. If this happens you probably have a vaccum leak or bad reassembly. If you can't get this adjustment right, something is wrong.

After the throttle stop had been adjusted with the IAC disconnected, re-apply some epoxy into the throttle stop screw head/sleeve as it was from the factory.

Reconect the IAC and clear fault codes. (or discoonnect the battery one last time)

The following steps explain how to make the final fine adjustments to the throttle stop on then bench, and on the vehicle.

Once your settings are all done, seal the throttle stop screw with a 2 part epoxy again. The stop screw needs to be sealed/locked down so it does not vibrate loose causing idle problems down the road.
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Last edited by tb1999; 02-01-2009 at 04:15 PM. Reason: added details
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Old 02-01-2009, 04:18 PM   #10
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you do realize youre running lean with that bigger maf housing right? not really a good idea.


but your throttle plate idea is a good one. great writeup with great pics
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