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Old 04-11-2010, 12:08 AM   #41
norcalfocus01
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The 500* Engine paint that Rust Oleum sells at Auto Zone will be fine for the engine block. Do you think that we (rust oleum I work for them) would make a paint labeled for engines if it wouldnt hold up? The 1200* paint would be more for the manifolds and stuff like that.
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Old 04-11-2010, 10:58 AM   #42
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You should add a section about how to do proper drop cloths and cleanup. I finished my eyelids last night (thanks again norcalfocus01) and when removing the masking tape and paper drop cloths, found significant paint 'dust' in places where I thought it could not get to. Anyway, I will add here that if you do find 'dust' (in my case, it was primer which showed up badly as light on dark) do NOT touch it. Wait 24 hours or until your sure it is completely dry, then remove with detailer spray (lube) or cleaner/degreaser. Nice writeup
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Old 04-11-2010, 11:11 AM   #43
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^^^Good point, many people do relize how much over spray there is from spray paint.
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Old 04-11-2010, 11:40 AM   #44
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I determined the problem was not the lack of cloths (I had them across the engine bay, down the sides etc). Rather, I had not taped up the seams effectively. Hence, do to the angle at which I was spraying the dust was able to penetrate. Also, please add a paragraph on how long you should wait before washing/waxing and any sort of after paint polishes to enhance the finish. As an example. I applied 6 'clear coats' last night before removing the mask. I know it is not 'durable' as yet from experience (it has been maybe 14 hours but it was a tad below 60* last night). I think it will need to dry all day before I can touch it (upper 70's today).
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Old 04-11-2010, 11:57 AM   #45
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yup that's a very good point........ back when I did my eyelids, I taped off quite a bit of the hood and bumper, and I STILL got over spray higher up on my windshield. waited till it dried and I got it off.
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Old 04-11-2010, 12:05 PM   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by S0C0nFused View Post
I determined the problem was not the lack of cloths (I had them across the engine bay, down the sides etc). Rather, I had not taped up the seams effectively. Hence, do to the angle at which I was spraying the dust was able to penetrate. Also, please add a paragraph on how long you should wait before washing/waxing and any sort of after paint polishes to enhance the finish. As an example. I applied 6 'clear coats' last night before removing the mask. I know it is not 'durable' as yet from experience (it has been maybe 14 hours but it was a tad below 60* last night). I think it will need to dry all day before I can touch it (upper 70's today).
The wait time I'll add that to the general painting info area. But it differs with weather number of coats and paint type. In your case I'd wait a full week before waxing or polishing.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mikebontoft View Post
yup that's a very good point........ back when I did my eyelids, I taped off quite a bit of the hood and bumper, and I STILL got over spray higher up on my windshield. waited till it dried and I got it off.
Canvas drops are a wise choice if you paint often. I use mine all the time.


First Post Updated with Saftey Items and Masking info.
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Old 04-14-2010, 02:00 PM   #47
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thanks again.....

got more questions now that I'm wanting to paint a whole car.....

what would be better for repainting a vehicle, enamel or lacquer? I was thinking of some single stage I could spray out of the air gun because mostly anything would look better on the car.

And generally, how much paint does it take to cover one? should 4 quarts be about enough?
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Old 04-17-2010, 01:06 AM   #48
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thanks for the how to's my buddy is thinking of picking up a spare spi valve cover so we can paint it and i might grab a zetec valve cover and paint it
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Old 04-20-2010, 01:57 AM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by norcalfocus01 View Post
On the bumper normal auto primer will be fine. Its not really solid plastic, its more urethane.
I just put a west wings urethane front bumper and rear bumper on my car. I've painted the entire car before (had a fiberglass kit previously), and was wondering if I needed anything special for the bumpers: like a flex agent or adhesion promoter? I was told I would want to go with a enamel primer for the urethane? Are you sure you don't need anything special? Because I've seen cars that had replacement front bumpers (urethane) and they chip like CRAZY!
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Old 04-20-2010, 07:12 AM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikebontoft View Post
thanks again.....

got more questions now that I'm wanting to paint a whole car.....

what would be better for repainting a vehicle, enamel or lacquer? I was thinking of some single stage I could spray out of the air gun because mostly anything would look better on the car.

And generally, how much paint does it take to cover one? should 4 quarts be about enough?

An Acrylic Enamel or a Single Stage Urethane would be your best bet . A Lacquer does not have the durability that either of the previously mentioned types. 4 Quarts would be enough for 2-3 generous coats.

I am still learning so Norcal Correct me if im wrong.
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