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Old 04-14-2013, 04:51 AM   #181
TJForster
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Help

Hello all, I'm new to this site, trying to find where I can ask this.. Okay here is my problem, I have a 2009 ford focus SES, standard, all the accessories and what not, anyway I just bought this car less then a month ago. What happened was I was racing.. And accidentally shifted from 3rd to second, at a high speed.. My car lost power and stalled, found out one cylinder wasn't working( the second one in from the drivers side). Had unplugged it looked at it plugged it back in and the car still ran the same, then I unplugged it again and the cylinder was working its a different one now that isn't, it's the first one on the drivers side that isn't working now, would it be the distributor? New wires? Spark plugs?? Please help, thank you all, really appreciated!
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Old 04-14-2013, 05:38 AM   #182
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I'll be the first to welcome you to FF. FYI your car doesn't have a distributor, your engine is a direct coil on plug type. Your issue may be a little more complex than just a bad coil though, but more info is needed. I would suggest looking through the Stickied Threads I'm not sure of technical knowledge, but you can measure resistance of each coil with a multimeter to confirm they are all within spec. If you don't have access to a multimeter you can swap coils out from a known firing cylinder and test it that way. However, like I said your issue could be more involved, so I would suggest starting a new thread under the "General Technical Chat Forum." Be sure to include as much info as possible like if CEL is on, and if it is what code(s) is it throwing, what method(s) or how did you come to the conclusion that a particular cylinder isn't firing, etc. There are several intelligent, fellow focus owners on here more than willing to help once you start a thread. Good luck, TJ.
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Old 04-14-2013, 01:13 PM   #183
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Z3T3C View Post
I'll be the first to welcome you to FF. FYI your car doesn't have a distributor, your engine is a direct coil on plug type. Your issue may be a little more complex than just a bad coil though, but more info is needed. I would suggest looking through the Stickied Threads I'm not sure of technical knowledge, but you can measure resistance of each coil with a multimeter to confirm they are all within spec. If you don't have access to a multimeter you can swap coils out from a known firing cylinder and test it that way. However, like I said your issue could be more involved, so I would suggest starting a new thread under the "General Technical Chat Forum." Be sure to include as much info as possible like if CEL is on, and if it is what code(s) is it throwing, what method(s) or how did you come to the conclusion that a particular cylinder isn't firing, etc. There are several intelligent, fellow focus owners on here more than willing to help once you start a thread. Good luck, TJ.
Thank you for your help, I had just posted a long thread of everything that happened on the general forum you supplied the link to.. I hope my problem gets resolved.. I'm not use to driving new cars with this technology, I use to drive old Camaro muscular cars...
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Old 04-14-2013, 06:23 PM   #184
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You're welcome. I hear ya, it's a bit of a learning curve but basic concepts are still there.
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Old 07-10-2013, 05:29 AM   #185
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I like these instructions, much better than the Haynes/Chilton or factory manual. My Focus is about ready for its second timing belt at 152000 miles. Had a local mechanic do the first TB replacement. I thought the Zeetech engine on my 2001 ZX3 was an interference engine. From the author's coments it sounds like it isn't.
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Old 07-11-2013, 08:32 PM   #186
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My bad.........

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Old 09-11-2013, 09:51 AM   #187
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I used this as a basic guide when I recently replaced the timing belt in my Zetec. I used a slightly different method, but overall the writeup was very useful.

However, I did find it odd that the write-up seems to skip the step for removing the crank pulley. I just wanted to mention that having an assistant shift into 5th gear (manual) and apply the brakes provided enough resistance to prevent the engine from rotating when removing the crank pulley bolt.
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Old 09-16-2013, 08:13 PM   #188
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Hello, I replaced my TB with the help of this writeup, but I am having problems keeping the tension correct it seems.

I did use the pin and bar, so nothing moved during the process.

Before starting, I rotated the engine by hand a few turns to make sure nothing was hung up, and my marks I made kept lining up turn after turn, then, when I started it, the belt tried to 'walk off' the gears, so I shut it down, then checked the tensioner position, and it was 45 deg clockwise of where I set it. I figured that I didn't have all of the slack out of the belt somewhere, and it came out there. After checking the timing by my marks, I reset the tensioner, then moved the belt by hand (ratchet on the crank pulley) and after 1.5-2 rotations of the belt, the tensioner would change position (not as bad as the first time, more like 3-5 deg.

I repeated this a couple times until the belt stopped walking off, it now rides about 1 mm 'inboard' of where it did originally, but I think that's OK, there's still about 3 mm of gear left. The troubling part is that the tensioner is no longer lined up, it's still pointing in the box, but not centered.

I guess my question is: do I need to care?

I can post pics if needed.

Thanks

Last edited by daffoml; 09-16-2013 at 08:14 PM. Reason: spelling
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Old 09-17-2013, 06:32 AM   #189
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The tensioner is going to move a little bit. This is kind of iffy. Have you checked with bar Nd pin to see if you're still in time?
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Old 09-17-2013, 07:03 AM   #190
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Helluva write-up!
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