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Old 04-04-2014, 04:17 PM   #211
Spezio
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You didn't mention the timing bar and pin in your list of tools, can I use something different(ie straight edge) or do I need so something job specific? Thanks, plan on doing this tomorrow on my car
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Old 04-04-2014, 07:29 PM   #212
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You will need the timing bar and pin. Not sure how far Rockford il is, but I have two sets and I can let you use one. Plus I have a special wrench to hold the cam as well as all the other shit you need. As a matter of fact, bring it by and I can help you do it.
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Old 04-04-2014, 11:01 PM   #213
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it sounds like my buddy has everything. I'll see how it goes and let you know! Thanks for the response.
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Old 05-20-2014, 07:13 AM   #214
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Apparently there was no problem removing the crank pulley bolt like I'm having ...My set up wasn't worn out but having 300K+ on this engine (lost the 1st engine to hydrostatic lock up ) I thought I would go ahead and change this while I had the car in the air doing complete front suspension and brakes. Alas, I am down to 1 last thing to try (before putting the motor mount back on & having it towed to the shop), my air impact gun doesn't have the torque to break the crank bolt loose and I jumped time by using a breaker bar with a 4 foot long cheater pipe so my last resort is the electric impact. They have more torque than my air does so I hope this works!

If not, maybe some of you out there have ideas I haven't thought of.....
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Old 05-20-2014, 11:46 AM   #215
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Wedge a breakover bar into the suspension/frame to hold bolt while you barely bump the starter, pull coil connector so motor does not start. Bolt comes loose instantly but make sure socket on it good or it'll take corners off bolt head.
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Old 05-20-2014, 12:11 PM   #216
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Quote:
Originally Posted by amc49 View Post
Wedge a breaker bar into the suspension/frame to hold bolt while you barely bump the starter, pull coil connector so motor does not start. Bolt comes loose instantly but make sure socket on it good or it'll take corners off bolt head.
Already done that, it just made the starter drag.
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Old 05-24-2014, 11:18 PM   #217
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Zetec Timing Belt Change - No Special Tools

No special tools except homemade balancer holder to help get the bolt loose. I just did my second Zetec engine timing belt change ( third actually ) without any of the special cam alignment tools or top center pin. After the first time I did one ( last year on a Contour ) I had to make a custom do-hicky wrench to hold the balancer by the holes drilled into it so I could put about 200 lbs of torque to it to get it loose. This time I made another wrench as I couldn't find the other but it only took about 40 lbs to get it. That is the hardest part of the job, you do that first as it is no use to take any more apart till you get that loose. Then you take the mount and all the covers off the front but not the valve cover. This last one I just did had no marks on the balancer or cam gears whatsoever so I used a long wire in the no. 1 spark plug hole ( use something that is definitely not going to break off ) to find top center. Make some kind of mark on the balancer that you can line up good again and then make some good marks in a line across the center line of the cam gears and put an extra mark on the ones in the center. Take the old belt and idler wheels off, put the new idler wheels on. Did I mention I did this three times? The second time was because we used the old wheels which didn't track and we had to get better idlers and do it again. Get new wheels. It may take a little time and a few cigarettes but you then carefully put the new belt on and get it in place with all the marks lining up. When you get the belt on the bottom pulley put the balancer on temporarily so you can line up the marks. The exhaust cam may give you a time but you can do it. When you think you have them to where they are all in the right place adjust the tensioner and tighten it. Then carefully turn the motor over by hand with a wrench and observe the marks every time you come around to top center. Go back and move things around if necessary and when you are confident all the marks are lining up the same as when you made them then recheck the tensioner and lock everything down. What you did was trade an old belt and wheels for a new belt and wheels and put everthing back like it was. You didn't have to take the valve cover off and you didn't need the custom alignment tools. Unless your stuff is really out of whack you shouldn't need any more than this.
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Old 05-24-2014, 11:35 PM   #218
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Zetec Belt Change - Custom Tool and Ancient Belt

Wrench I whipped up to hold the crank balancer by the holes that are in the balancer. I am so glad I changed this belt , it looks to be the original which would be 179,000 that is three times normal belt lifeClick image for larger version

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Old 07-11-2014, 04:16 PM   #219
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Thanks so much for this tutorial! It made my event a couple weeks ago easier and less time consuming.

I knew the belt needed to be done, but I kept putting it off, and not buying the parts. Well, Friday the 13th on the way home from work at a stoplight the engine died and would not restart. I had 151k miles, and knew what had happened. Towed the car home on a dolly and set to work.

Here are some of my observations

1. The engine must be jacked WAY up for the upper bolts on the middle timing cover with serpentine idler pully to clear the frame. This part was the most difficult for me to remove. You have to loosten the pully first, then loosten the cover bolt, and have the engine jacked up enough for the whole thing to clear. Other parts and bolts require the engine to be lowered way down. I decided to replace all the easily replaceable pullys and parts while doing this, too much effort to much effort if something failed later.

2. The timing tools are helpful but not required (I did not have time to order them). A piece of 3/16 bar stock from Home depot and a few feeler gauges substitute for the cam bar, and TDC can be found with a long screwdriver in the spark plug hole of cyl 1. Just be sure you don't move the crank after locating it.

3, Loosening the cam sprockets is not required as long as they have not been moved from the factory setting. This is because there is a fixed distance between the crank and cam sprockets on the right side, and a fixed number of teeth fit in that distance. As long as there is no slack on the right side, the fixed number of teeth of the belt will cause the cams be be in perfect factory time with the crank. If you are a whole tooth off it will be obvious, and it is not possible to be "off by a whisker".

4. When you wrap the belt it just needs to be snug on the right side. If it seems like it is just a bit loose, check the position of the crank, it has moved a bit. You do not have to pull like crazy. You can't "stretch the belt" to get it to the next tooth if it is almost there. The crank needs to be adjusted slightly.

In total job took about 10-11hrs over a couple days. I could do it in half that now that I have done it.

Thanks FF
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Old 07-13-2014, 11:53 PM   #220
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There you go, I don't commonly loosen sprockets either, it's actually death to do so if cam has VCT, you lose the cam to sprocket phasing only to have fits getting it right back where it was to begin with.

I made a TDC pin as well as the Home Depot cam tool. Pin cost maybe $3 and five minutes on the bench grinder after hacksawing to rough length.
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