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Old 11-12-2011, 10:21 PM   #131
5alarm
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I need to do this and want to get the engine to max reliability so I want to know what would be the "total" package to replace while in there doing the timing belt.

Are water pumps a weak link? What is the shopping list with priority of items?

My big concern is tightening the crank bolt. What is the torque spec and how do you achieve that? I haven't seen anything that addresses this specific question.
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Old 11-13-2011, 08:25 PM   #132
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If the water pump is still original I'd call it a weak link. Mine had a plastic impeller and when it dropped onto the cement floor it broke. (it was leaking anyway)
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Old 11-13-2011, 09:47 PM   #133
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Zorro, thanks, I will definitely do the pump at the same time.
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Old 11-14-2011, 06:07 AM   #134
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As for a shopping list............. T-belt kit(idler pulley, tensioner, t-belt), water pump,valve cover gasket with grommets and while you're in there, serpentine belt.
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Old 11-18-2011, 12:06 PM   #135
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Ok, I'm doing the timing belt on my svt focus...im in deep and got the belt off and have the timing tools. I put the crank pin in and rotated clockwise until the crank hit the pin. then I tried to slide the cam plate in the cams and it went into one cam slot and the other cam was like barely barely off, so i just turned the intake cam gear a tiny bit so it would line up and the bar slid in place, now the bar is in place holding the cams. My question is, is this ok or do I NEED to loosen the cam gears?

Why is everbody loosening the cam gears? Do I have to?
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Old 11-18-2011, 04:06 PM   #136
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Yes, that is normal. It is correct to loosen the cam gears. When you put the new belt on and tighten the tensioner, you will see both gears rotate. Then you tighten the gears down and voila, you are in time.
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Old 11-18-2011, 06:42 PM   #137
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Yeah but I don't get why you would loosen the cam gears? Like some other guy said, why would the gears ever move or change regardless of what the belt has done? So I still don't know, do you absolutely have to loosen and retighten the cam gears? It looks like the guy who made this how to on pages 1&2 did NOT loosen his cam gears.

Here's a vid I just made explaining my concern before I put everything back together because I NEVER want to do this again lol...so I want to be sure that I'm ok and that I wont get p1381 again because this is an interference motor. http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...&v=72U037-owiA

Sorry the video is a bit long and backwards, (filmed upside down and it flipped everything so everything thats on the right should be on the left and everything thats on the left should be on the right if that makes sense) but I want to be thorough and also forgot to mention in the video that everytime we knocked up against the pin to be at TDC #1, the timing mark on the crank pulley(harmonic balancer) lined up with the raised portion on the block skirt, so I THINK everything is ok.
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Old 11-18-2011, 10:36 PM   #138
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Send me your email addy and I'll send you the ford workshop manual instructions on this procedure. Goes into detail on how to do this.
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Old 12-19-2011, 04:27 PM   #139
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Hi,

New to the site and hope to add my .02 worth at times.

But for now I am following timing belt posts.

As for the crank TDC pin goes, can I use a positive piston stop screwed into #1 spark pulg hole to stop piston at TDC, would it do the same thing as the crank pin lock.

I use this method on my race bikes when degreeing cams in and it has always works.
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Old 12-19-2011, 06:56 PM   #140
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Only prob. I see with your process is locking the crank on TDC. When timming the cams, you do not want ANY movement from the crank either way. So how do we lock the crank from rocking either way? PIN IT! Or make damn sure it stays static.cb.
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