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Old 08-19-2008, 02:30 PM   #1
lhc_focus
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Timing belt finally went

Well it's a 2002 ztec with 155K. The plan was to trade this car in this summer but $$$$ and family things have postponed this. So I have started reading this and other focus sites to get myself up to speed on the maintenance to do list. The oil has been changed every 5-7K miles. Replaced the brakes and rotors, sway bar links by myself. I have also changed head gaskets on a 94 mustang, removed and replaced both auto and manual transmission. Just want to give everyone a little taste of my mechanical skills.

Anyway, I'm in Vegas and the wife calls saying the car is acting up and won't go over 30MPH. She was about 2 miles from the house, drove it home and parked it in the garage. After getting home yesterday I changed my clothes to see what was going on. Started it up and had a very bad idle, the engine was shaking. I did not take it for a drive.

That nagging feeling came over me. The timing belt. I had printed a replacement procedure along with ordering the tool several months ago in anticipation of doing this change in the fall. Once I got the timing belt covers off I could see about 10 of the ribs broke off. OK found the problem. Followed the procedure and had the belt off in about 3 hours. The bar I got to keep the cams from turning does not fit the ztec application. But also noticed the cams did not appear to be lined up properly. So I paint marked the cams and pullies and anyting else that looked like it needed to come off before removing the belt.

I found the timing belt kit at NAPA which contains the belt, tensioner and idle pulley. Also replacing the serp belt, tensioner, and idle pulley bearing and water pump.

Anyway as I said earlier I was unsure if the timing was correct before taking the thing apart. Sure enough, after putting all back together the engine shakes and still can't get about 30mph. My scanner has the idle jumping from 25 to 35 degrees. I called the dealership and to reset the timing it will run me $350.

I would still like to take a shot at doing this myself. I have searched for an exact procedure in how to re-align cams that might be several degrees off from each other and can't find it. Anybody here able to help out? What shold the timing be at idle?

BTW, I took pics during the entire process and will post along with part #'s after finishing this.


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Old 08-20-2008, 12:23 AM   #2
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The cam tool will fit but you have to tap it in place. The bar should have come with a timing pin also that screws into the front of the engine. There's a plug there now. It's on the driver's side behind the cat. It's supposed to be a non interference engine so you should be ok with the valves. The dealer's price might sound high but they basically have to go through the whole procedure of changing the belt to retime everything.

Just reread your post and I'm confused about whether or not you have the procedure. I would suggest getting your hands on a Haynes manual. It gives the timing and tensioning procedure.
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Old 08-20-2008, 01:10 AM   #3
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I have a haynes and a procedure from the net. What I can't find is how to check the timing position of the crank to cam's. In my case the timing has jumped, ie, either the intake or exhaust cam moved. How do I figure this out? Are there timing marks on the cams and crank somewhere.

Thanks for the help
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Old 08-20-2008, 01:57 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lhc_focus View Post
I have a haynes and a procedure from the net. What I can't find is how to check the timing position of the crank to cam's. In my case the timing has jumped, ie, either the intake or exhaust cam moved. How do I figure this out? Are there timing marks on the cams and crank somewhere.

Thanks for the help
Before you do this make sure the cams have the cam alignment tool in the slots at the other end. It will only go in both cams one way. The cams are now timed.

Now to check to see if piston #1 is on compression stroke remove the spark plug and put your finger in the whole. This could be a problem with the Zetec head since it is so far down in there. So in that case use a compression tester. Unless you have someone with super long fingers. Then have someone turn the crank shaft over until you feel pressure or air hissing out around your finger or pressure on the compression tester gauge. Once you know you are on compression stroke back the crank up a tad and insert the crankshaft timing pin. Then slowly and carefully advance the crankshaft clockwise until it hits the pin. Now you are timed at the crank and the cams. Good luck.

Remember before trying to turn the motor over remove the crank shaft timing pin and the camshaft alignment tool.
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Old 08-20-2008, 11:02 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nate2006 View Post
Before you do this make sure the cams have the cam alignment tool in the slots at the other end. It will only go in both cams one way. The cams are now timed. Thats the delima I face. by eye balling the cams the grooves don't line up and the bar does not fit.

Now to check to see if piston #1 is on compression stroke remove the spark plug and put your finger in the whole. This could be a problem with the Zetec head since it is so far down in there. So in that case use a compression tester. Unless you have someone with super long fingers. Then have someone turn the crank shaft over until you feel pressure or air hissing out around your finger or pressure on the compression tester gauge. Once you know you are on compression stroke back the crank up a tad and insert the crankshaft timing pin. Then slowly and carefully advance the crankshaft clockwise until it hits the pin. Now you are timed at the crank and the cams. Good luck. Can you turn the crank with the bar in the cams without causing damage? Thanks for your help.

Remember before trying to turn the motor over remove the crank shaft timing pin and the camshaft alignment tool.
I'm not giving up on this. With 5 cars to work on I can't afford to take these to shops everytime something comes up.
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Old 08-20-2008, 12:02 PM   #6
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If the groove on the cams is sitting to low turn the cams another 180 degrees until the groove is sitting up higher. Then line one cam up with the alignment tool and slide it in to where half of it is sitting in the groove and the other half is not. Now move the other cam until you can slide the whole alignment tool into both cams.

Now the Zetec is a Non-Interference motor as long as the cams are stock. So yes you can turn the crank as long as this is the case. It will not damage the valves. But you will need to have the timing belt removed in order to do this.
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Old 08-21-2008, 01:02 AM   #7
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Update: I did get the cam bar in place. Very tight tolerence to say the least. Of course I found TDC on the 1st cylinder using the compression gage and watching a piece of hard plastic move up and down in the cylinder.

If I found TDC and the cam bar is in place doesn't that mean the timing is correct?

Last edited by lhc_focus; 08-26-2008 at 10:41 AM.
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Old 08-21-2008, 01:17 AM   #8
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Cam bar installed. I did not realize how tight the tolerence was going to be. Thats why I was confused. Any way it's in.
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Old 08-21-2008, 01:30 AM   #9
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Old timing belt. You can see the ribs missing on the lower right idler pulley.

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Old 08-21-2008, 02:39 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lhc_focus View Post
Update: I did get the cam bar in place. Very tight tolerence to say the least. Of course I found TDC on the 1st cylinder using the compression gage and watching a piece of hard plastic move up and down in the cylinder.

Well I'm surprised to see the #1 cylinder cam lobes in the horizontal position for both intake and exhaust.

If I found TDC and the cam bar is in place doesn't that mean the timing is correct?
Sorry haven't been on the computer much today. As long as piston #1 is at TDC, the crank is resting on the crank timing pin and the cams have the alignment tool in then you are timed correctly. All you need to do now is follow the tensioning directions for the belt and you are set. I used some vise grips to hold the cams with the cam alignment tool in place when torquing the cam sprockets down. But be very careful with the vise grips you don't want to mark up or break you cam shafts. There are a couple spots on them with extra metal for hold them in place. A monkey wrench will also work. Just don't He-man them, just nice and easy on the sprocket bolts and the wrench/vise grips on the cams. Good luck.
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