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Old 10-11-2011, 05:49 AM   #51
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Well it's important not to bend on the pan when you're draining it, and not to use anything to pry down on the pan. It's hard for us to say what's causing it without being there. You're just going to have to keep working on it.

How are you tightening the bolts to the pan? Bolts should be tightened from the center to the outside in an X shaped pattern. When replacing the filter, I recommend the Purolator gasket that comes with a gasket that has adhesive on the back of it.

Clean the mating surfaces of the pan and the transmission to be sure there is no damage to either. Use a rag.

When using grey RTV, keep in mind that it takes 24 hrs for that RTV to dry. It's written on the box. Mostly manufacturers use grey for assembly. It's superior to black because it retains flexibility better, can be used in place of blue, but has a much longer cure time. For a transmission, you should be using black. Blue is more for coolant, although it can be used in oil seal locations.
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Old 10-11-2011, 05:50 AM   #52
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Well it's important not to bend on the pan when you're draining it, and not to use anything to pry down on the pan. It's hard for us to say what's causing it without being there. You're just going to have to keep working on it.

How are you tightening the bolts to the pan? Bolts should be tightened from the center to the outside in an X shaped pattern. When replacing the filter, I recommend the Purolator gasket that comes with a gasket that has adhesive on the back of it.

Clean the mating surfaces of the pan and the transmission to be sure there is no damage to either. Use a rag.

When using grey RTV, keep in mind that it takes 24 hrs for that RTV to dry. It's written on the box. Mostly manufacturers use grey for assembly. It's superior to black because it retains flexibility better, can be used in place of blue, but has a much longer cure time. For a transmission, you should be using black. Blue is more for coolant, although it can be used in oil seal locations.
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Old 10-11-2011, 08:19 PM   #53
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I drained the trans fluid like the book said, break loose one corner, blaa blaa, anyways I drained the old oil in a big drain pan, cleaned the bottom of he tranny and the pan and and added about 6 quarts. the book said it would take 6.9 quarts........... Well, i have leakage, bad leakage. first time with the gasket, 2nd time no gasket just blue rtv, 3rd time grey rtv. still leaking badly!! Oh, when i finally poured the old fluid into a couple of one gallon jugs, I didnt even fill up one of them. less that 4 quarts! But i added 6 qts. Did i screw up my tranny, or what can i do to fix it! I really need help, my driveway is a mess and my wife is PISSED OFF!! Please help, thankx
You can only put 3 qts or so in it if you remove the pan....so you OVERFILLED it? The 2 qts you lost was part of the overfill.

I used a screwdriver and tapped in a front corner and mine popped loose...you don't want to overtighten the bolts or warp the sealing edge of the pan in any way.

I'd say...put a good filter in it...add 3 qts or so...use a rubber gasket....and then try it. They tend to be sensitive to fluid level so it might take a while to get straight?
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Old 10-11-2011, 09:00 PM   #54
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oooooo I misssed that. Yeah, dropping the pan doesn't drain the whole transmission. Only like 3-4 qts. Do like what Fred said, then while the engine is idling, check the fluid. You might've simply been pumping fluid out of the vent at the top of the transmission.
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Old 10-22-2011, 03:40 PM   #55
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I am struggling here...

I have a 2007; it has those release clips on the hose. The shop manual says:

Push the connector fitting into the cooler line. Press the yellow release button. Pull the connector fitting off the cooler line.

The clip is blue, and there is no yellow release button. It looks like I push the connector in and then press the blue tabs, then pull the connector off the cooler.

I push the connector in as far as I can (dont know if its far enough, but I cant budge it any farther), then press those tabs and pull but nothing.

Anyone have any tips? Its driving me nuts! What happened to good ol hose clamps?
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Old 11-05-2011, 04:33 PM   #56
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I am struggling here...

I have a 2007; it has those release clips on the hose. The shop manual says:

Push the connector fitting into the cooler line. Press the yellow release button. Pull the connector fitting off the cooler line.

The clip is blue, and there is no yellow release button. It looks like I push the connector in and then press the blue tabs, then pull the connector off the cooler.

I push the connector in as far as I can (dont know if its far enough, but I cant budge it any farther), then press those tabs and pull but nothing.

Anyone have any tips? Its driving me nuts! What happened to good ol hose clamps?
You're not the only one, I came close to just cutting the line but decided it just wasn't worth it. Filled the 3 quarts I drained from the pan and gave up on the rest.
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Old 11-05-2011, 10:03 PM   #57
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I recall struggling with that connector for the better part of 20 minutes. I think I finally had to use pliers to get enough oomph on it to get it to release. On the up side, you know it's not going to come off on its own while you're driving down the road...
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Old 11-08-2011, 10:41 PM   #58
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I gave up on that connector also. Tried all kinds of tricks, but it got to the point where something bad was gonna happen... So I put a drain plug in the pan and will drain it now and then... should have a complete flush in like hmmm 10 months Doh!

I suppose those things save time and ease QA on the assembly line, but for long term maintenance they are the pits!
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Old 11-20-2011, 11:58 PM   #59
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Nice job! Glad to know there's hope for me to do just about anything to my Hocus Focus :)

Side note/warning to other Focus owners: just a heads up for anyone out there who wants a tranny flush done by the pros-- Aamco and other transmission specialist companies will try to charge you upwards of $300 for a flush and claim we can only use Mercon V, since it's supposedly Ford-specific fluid. Just got mine done by Sears for $100, all parts and labor included.
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Old 11-28-2011, 12:34 PM   #60
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Nice job! Glad to know there's hope for me to do just about anything to my Hocus Focus :)

Side note/warning to other Focus owners: just a heads up for anyone out there who wants a tranny flush done by the pros-- Aamco and other transmission specialist companies will try to charge you upwards of $300 for a flush and claim we can only use Mercon V, since it's supposedly Ford-specific fluid. Just got mine done by Sears for $100, all parts and labor included.

Just a heads up - Sears will only do a transmission pan fluid exchange and only on cars with less than 100k miles. It's Sears policy not to do pan fluid changes on cars with over 100k miles as "they need a full service and a full fluid exchange/ flush with a transmission filter".

So you are probably seeing the difference in price because they change 2, maybe three quarts of fluid instead of a couple of gallons and the filter.
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