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Old 07-02-2008, 03:05 AM   #1
BradWhite
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Post Trubendz Exhaust System Install on 08' Sedan

Out with old: (the black flex pipe is there as I'd already done a "lunchbox" delete)




And in with the new:









Sorry, no pics of the system as it came out of the box, too damned excited to install it!

This is a Trubendz 2 1/2” Stainless Steel Exhaust with Hi-Flow Cat that I installed on my 2008 Focus Sedan.

Locating this system:

You will find this system listed at www.trubendz.com under Exhaust Systems, Focus 05-07. The part number I ordered is 14128258; they have several options and sizes available.

Trubendz description of this system: “This kit is the same as our standard exhaust kit for the Duratec Focus, except; this kit will come with a high-flow cat pre-welded to the front pipe. This kit is designed to fit the 2.3L/2.0L Duratec ZX3/ZX4/ZX5 and Sedan model. The pipe diameter used with this kit is 2.5 inch, 304 Stainless Steel. The whole kit is mandrel bent to allow maximum airflow for an average of 8-12 HP increase in power. This kit features a polished SS Magnaflow straight-thru muffler and a Stainless Steel (double wall) tip that measures approx 3 inch, circle”.

What they don’t mention, and I don’t know why, is that the high-flow cat is also from Magnaflow, it’s Magnaflow’s performance cat.

Pros:
Quality system (with Magnaflow muffler and Magnaflow Performance Cat)
Well packaged to avoid shipment damage
Excellent exhaust tone (low and throaty)
Relatively easy install

Cons:
No instructions – none, not a single scrape of paper inside the box
Two minor issues fitting it on my 08’ (noted in installation instructions)

Time Required:
Approximately 3 - 4 hours

Cost:
$435 (includes shipping)
Plus miscellaneous materials below

Materials Required:
Loctite
Gasket seal (I used Permatex High Tack Gasket Sealant, $4.99 @ AutoZone)
Stainless steel wire or welder (don’t panic see the “Tip” installation part near the end)

Tools Required:
Socket set
Channel lock pliers
Reciprocating saw with metal cutting blade (hack saw can be used but will take a lot longer)
Torque wrench (nice, but not required)

You have to have access to the exhaust system. If you know how, place the car as high as safely possible with jack stands.

I’m not the smart or confident, I used four service ramps, along with jack stands for safety, to raise the car. Still a tight fit but manageable. However getting the car onto four service ramps was an experience all in itself. The height of the service ramps prevents them from being pushed under the car for the rear wheels. I solved this by positioning the rear service ramps at an angle, driving up on all four ramps about 1/4 of the way, jumped on the emergency brake and then kicked the rear ones straight in-line with the tires. Back in to slowly release the emergency brake and drive up onto the ramps. Not fun, but it worked. Remember to stop on the way down and pull the rear ones out or you’ll have to jack up each side of the car to get them out!

You might get away with just jacking up the drivers side as all of the action takes place from the middle to that side of the car.

Just remember to be safe and DO NOT stick your head under any car before it is secured correctly and jack stands are in place for safety.

I also disconnected the negative lead on the battery during the install to allow the PCM (Power Control Module) to reset so it’s ready to learn all about your new exhaust when you’re finished.

Instructions:

Removing Stock Exhaust

First, make a “splint” for the flex pipe connected to the lower cat. The flex pipe is easily damaged and this “splint” is recommended by Ford. I used stiff cardboard wrapped around the flex pipe and secured that with cable ties.



With the splint in place, remove the two bolts connecting the resonator to the flex pipe (be gentle with that flex pipe). Carefully separate the resonator from the flex pipe. (You may need to remove the resonator from it’s hanger to accomplish this. (See tip below)

Remove the rest of the exhaust system from the stock hangers, taking care not to damage the hangers themselves.

Tip: I found the easiest way to remove the stock hanger arms from their hangers was with a pair of channel lock pliers. I opened the pliers to the correct width, placed one arm on the back of the hanger and the other on the tip of the hanger arm in front. Closing the pliers forces the hanger arm back into the hanger. A larger Phillip's screwdriver was then used to push the hanger arm the rest of the way out of the hanger (pull on hanger while pushing with screwdriver) I did not use any type of lubricant as Ford notes the hangers are made of “a special material” and I did not want to take any chances.

With all the hanger arms out of their hangers you are now going to have to cut the stock exhaust in order to get it out of there. Cut at location pictured below.



Once you make that cut get that old stock exhaust out of there. And when it’s out, jump on it, throw it over the neighbor’s fence, dispose of it properly, or sell off the parts, what ever brings you the most joy.

Installing New Exhaust

To begin installing the new exhaust put the new cat section and muffler section in their hangers. (See fit issue below)

Fit Issue #1: In order for me to get the rear hanger arm of the muffler section to fit through the confined space at that location I finally trimmed about 1/4” off of the hanger arm. (Trubendz response was that this was more than likely a manufacturing error and you may not have this issue)

When those two sections are in their hangers, join them together.

You want to adjust that joint so that the hanger on the front of the new cat is vertical (not being pushed forward or backward) and the muffler section fits nicely centered throughout its run to the rear.

You are ready to bolt the new cat to the flex pipe. Again, be gentle with that flex pipe.

Apply gasket seal to the new gasket following the manufactures instructions for a “permanent” installation.

When the gasket is ready, put it in place, line up the bolt holes and insert the two new bolts and washers included with the kit. Tighten those, if you have a torque wrench tighten them to 47 Nm (35 lb-ft).

Double check the alignment of the cat hanger as well as the muffler section. Again, don’t beat up that flex pipe while you are making any adjustments here. When you are satisfied install one 2 1/2” exhaust clamp (included in kit) over the joint and tighten (see tip below).

Tip: I applied Loctite to the treads on the exhaust clamps prior to installation.

Now connect the rear tip section to the end of the muffler section, trying not to knock that muffler section out of position while doing so.

Fit Issue #2: If you install the tip hanger arm in the stock hanger it presses the tip up hard against the exhaust indent in the bumper. Not good! You do not want that tip in contact with the bumper at all. (Trubendz response to this issue was positive in that they believe they have a template for correct fit of this hanger arm, so again you may not have this issue)

The picture below shows the tip hanger arm in the stock hanger, that tip is pressed hard against the bumper!



I found that if the new tip hanger arm is held on the bottom of the stock hanger the tip is perfectly positioned in the bumper exhaust indent. OK, so how to keep it there.

I came up with two ideas for this, one old school, one requires welding.

If you have some good stainless steel wire you can simply run the wire through the hole in the stock hanger and around the hanger arm to hold the hanger arm flush to the bottom of the hanger. But this could move on you and I hate suggesting the “coat hanger” approach.

I removed a hanger arm from the old stock exhaust (damn, now you have to sneak into the neighbor’s yard and get that back).



I placed that in the stock Tip hanger, held the new hanger arm up in position (flush with the bottom of the hanger) and welded the old hanger arm to the new one.



Nice fit now;



You may also be able to find a longer exhaust hanger and replace the stock one. But, I did not play with that idea.

I also did not play with just heating and bending the new hanger arm, which might be another viable option.

Once you finish installing the tip hanger arm, so that tip does not make contact with the bumper, make sure the tip is aligned the way you want it (look at it from the rear of the car; is it centered?) then install the second exhaust clamp over the joint of the muffler and tip section and tighten (remember the Loctite).

You’re done!

Caution: New exhaust tone my induce temptation to press accelerator peddle harder than required to maintain legal speed limit. Studies have shown that speeding tickets and increased insurance rates have been directly associated with this modification.


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Best wishes and keep on modding April 2009 SOTM, July 2009 ROTM, 2009 FF ROTY

RIFF CREW, Sedan Revolution #137, TEAM Duratec #181, Bremerton Raceway #658, NW POSSE #6

Last edited by BradWhite; 09-25-2008 at 05:38 PM.
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Old 07-02-2008, 03:16 AM   #2
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Very nice Brad, you keep this up I think you will break our record of earning the most rep points within a three-month period.
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Old 07-02-2008, 03:38 AM   #3
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Thanks Tom - appreciate that very much!
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Old 07-02-2008, 08:28 AM   #4
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brad, i am wondering... I am looking at this system for my coupe. Is I would have to remove a section of piping in order to shorten it up correct?
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Old 07-02-2008, 10:16 AM   #5
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I don't think you would have to worry about it. When I ordered mine I followed their directions and made sure to let them know it was for a Sedan. I'd just put in your year, make and model info when you order it and they'll take care of the rest.
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RIFF CREW, Sedan Revolution #137, TEAM Duratec #181, Bremerton Raceway #658, NW POSSE #6
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Old 07-02-2008, 10:52 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BradWhite View Post
I don't think you would have to worry about it. When I ordered mine I followed their directions and made sure to let them know it was for a Sedan. I'd just put in your year, make and model info when you order it and they'll take care of the rest.
okay cause their website does not have the 08 listed...
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Old 07-02-2008, 11:11 AM   #7
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True, their web-site doesn't list 08', however I was in touch with them and they told me they have been getting a lot of orders for 08's without issues. Well, expect for the two I mentioned. But, maybe the others that were ordered were for coupes and they didn't have those issues.
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RIFF CREW, Sedan Revolution #137, TEAM Duratec #181, Bremerton Raceway #658, NW POSSE #6
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Old 07-02-2008, 02:21 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BradWhite View Post
True, their web-site doesn't list 08', however I was in touch with them and they told me they have been getting a lot of orders for 08's without issues. Well, expect for the two I mentioned. But, maybe the others that were ordered were for coupes and they didn't have those issues.
Thanks for the info... will prob get this if i dont end up getting the nitrous system.
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Old 07-02-2008, 03:07 PM   #9
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awesome.
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why didn't anyone tell me turning off traction control gave me faster launches and better gas mileage...
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Old 07-05-2008, 03:26 PM   #10
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Trubendz Exhaust - Intake Suggestions?

Brad: Thanks so much for the detailed instructions and description of the Tubendz System. I just ordered one for my 08 Sedan. Two questions. How does Ford view the new cat and mandrel bent exhaust in connection with future warranty issues? What kind of cold Air Intake system works with this exhaust system?
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