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Old 06-24-2008, 03:09 PM   #91
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oh, i didnt realize you did the alternator (not generator right?). i didnt notice the red cable. so you redid the positive from the alternator with a bigger wire as well?
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Old 06-24-2008, 03:51 PM   #92
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No, no, no - I just meant to keep the ground wire away from that wire , I didn't play with it. But mine's an 08', you might not even have the same cable in the same place.
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Old 06-24-2008, 04:41 PM   #93
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Any chance for a full engine bay shot? I'd like to see where you routed the cables and if there's an easy way to keep them visually clean as well. I'm big on keeping cables neat and organized, no matter how hard the task is. Entropy proves itself in unorganized cables.
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Old 06-24-2008, 05:33 PM   #94
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Sure, I'll get an engine bay shot after work for you.

Here are the engine bay shots I promised. Hope you like wire loom!

The new ground from the negative terminal to the main chassis ground is hiding in the loom with the stock ground wire to the main chassis ground.

The new ground to lower engine block is hiding in the loom with the stock ground wire to lower engine block.

I moved the throttle body ground, which daisy chains up from lower engine block, to the rear upper bolt on throttle body. You could hide this all together by using a lower throttle body bolt but I didn't have that much energy.

(hey Jim, see the wire in the back, below the heat shield with the two white wire clamps on it, that's my "big red wire". Ford is messing with my head, they I.D. the component that wire is attached to as the "generator" but they call the wire the "alternator cable", so yeah - one in the same)



From the angle below you can barely see the ground coming from the negative terminal to the rear engine hanger bolt (I removed the hanger itself all together). That wire actually goes down from the negative terminal and under the hose there and back up to the hanger bolt. I did that to keep the ground away from the positive wires in the same area.

The ground that daisy chains from the rear engine hanger bolt to the chassis ground on the left (facing car) can also been seen, but not very well. It hides behind the engine for most of it's run.



But once again, the three grounds that currently terminate at the negative terminal will be moved to the rear of the Sun Hyper Voltage GT that shipped today! When that arrives the only connection to the battery negative terminal will be the main ground from the Hyper Voltage and the stock grounds. Great, now I have to figure out where I'm going to put that!

Here's something I discovered last night. Because I'm (we're) doing all this work on the engine bay grounds I checked under the dash were I knew some stock grounds terminate against the chassis. I found two stock ground wires connected to one bolt that was holding them against a completely painted chassis. The bolt itself was the only place these ground wires could possibly have been making there connection to ground. I removed them, cleaned the paint to bare metal and re-connected them. I plan on checking every stock ground to see if I find the same.
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Old 06-25-2008, 05:31 AM   #95
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Hey Brad enjoyed reading your write up both times, LOL. I grounded my system awhile back (4-5) months ago. I bought a cheapy kit and then did not install it. I instead just made all of my own wires using ultra fine strand copper wire and made all my wires to the proper length so I did not have all the extra wire. The cheapy kit also came w/ the voltage stabilizer (junk), but it made me do some research. The stabilizer is nothing more than a capacitor bank to stiffen the entire charging system.
So I took the cheapy one apart and replaced the single cap (3000uf @ 16v, so much for a bank, bank usually being more than one) and properly soldered (the cheapy one had connections that looked like my 7yr old son did the soldering) in three caps I had on my bench ( 47000uF @ 25v). Note* the larger the current draw then more capacitance is beneficial. As for gains, I do not know b/c I have really not paid much attention to it.

Brad this is in response to what you asked me about caps in your PM. Do a google search for voltage stabilizer and you will find numerous articles about this. Some positive some negative. Though I found the electrical theory to be very sound. I use even larger caps on my cnc mill. I hand built the power supplies for the servo's myself, mainly to learn how. But picked up alot of good info along the way. I will admit I am not done with the mill just yet, I have to finish soldering in the encoder connections, but I am getting there. Anyway the power supply (actually supplies, there is 3) work flawless and are able to produce 36v @ 15 amps per. I load tested them already. In short, I used 9 caps in that system rated at 75v w/ 80,000uF per.

Hope this helps and sorry for getting off subject.
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Old 06-25-2008, 08:18 AM   #96
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well, i just got a msg yesterday that my wires shipped, so i am hoping they get here for this wkd, so I can do this!!
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Old 06-25-2008, 08:42 AM   #97
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Okay bought some street wires 4 gauge wire and proceeded to ground. I grounded the TB, alternator, engine/transmission (where the tranny bolts to the engine), fuel rail and chassis ground.

I wired them as follows

1. neg batt terminal to chassis ground
2. Alternator to neg batt terminal
3. TB to neg batt terminal
4. Engine/tranny to tb
5. Fuel rail to neg batt
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Old 06-25-2008, 09:14 AM   #98
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derek, on the alternator, i think you are supposed to increase the POSITIVE, not the neg. ground to the battery. with all the grounding be upgraded, the point is to increase the 12v going to the battery, so it evens out and you get to use that added power.

do a search on the big 3. that is what is done...alternator positive, neg. bat. terminal to chassis, and engine to chassis. the key to that is the alternator positive.

here:
http://www.focushacks.com/index.php?modid=31

this was done on a focus.
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Old 06-25-2008, 09:18 AM   #99
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dyn2liv View Post
Hey Brad enjoyed reading your write up both times, LOL. Hope this helps and sorry for getting off subject.
LOL, hope you didn't read the whole thread twice! I know the voltage regulators are mostly just caps and the first thing I'm going to do when I get mine is take it apart (hopefully that's possible) and try to get some good pictures of the guts of it to post. If we can just buy a few parts and accomplish the same thing that would be nice to save others a couple hundred bucks !!
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Old 06-25-2008, 10:13 AM   #100
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NemesisEnforcer View Post
derek, on the alternator, i think you are supposed to increase the POSITIVE, not the neg. ground to the battery. with all the grounding be upgraded, the point is to increase the 12v going to the battery, so it evens out and you get to use that added power.

do a search on the big 3. that is what is done...alternator positive, neg. bat. terminal to chassis, and engine to chassis. the key to that is the alternator positive.

here:
http://www.focushacks.com/index.php?modid=31

this was done on a focus.

Thats what I thought but I couldnt find any red covering that was mentioned in that guide (only a black one). So i figured why not ground it the wire is cut and it cant hurt. I would like a pic if possible of where that hookup is since i cant seem to find it
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