HOW TO: FRPP (or any) Lowering kit (springs, shocks, dampers) - Page 2 - Focus Fanatics
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Old 09-06-2009, 01:40 PM   #11
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Google search ftw awesome writeup I will be using this for my setup in a couple weeks maybe
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Old 09-06-2009, 06:15 PM   #12
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Great writeup!
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Old 07-21-2012, 02:15 AM   #13
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Awesome write up! I'll be using this as a guide to install my FRPP kit next week. Thanks!!!
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Old 07-21-2012, 02:20 AM   #14
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Nice write up bro! I should have take. More pics like this when I did my suspension! Wanna see pics of it lowwwwwws
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Old 07-21-2012, 06:52 PM   #15
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Your lucky as hell that the rear LCA bolt came out easily.

I had to cut mine, both sides.
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Old 07-27-2012, 02:18 AM   #16
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Does anyone have a write up on how to assemble the springs onto the struts?
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Old 10-08-2013, 01:11 PM   #17
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is that a voltage stabilizer in there too? J.W. because I'm looking into some performance parts and don't know where to start or which ones to trust?
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Old 11-06-2013, 09:32 PM   #18
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Quick question...

I know nothing about suspension works, or why you do certain things, etc..

Why do you tighten the front and rear strut bolts after the car is on the ground?
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Old 11-06-2013, 10:30 PM   #19
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I don't see how any of those lower bolts would get "properly" torqued when the vehicle is on the ground, I had enough trouble putting the back in tight.

So anyway the rear is a fickle beast. A 4ft breaker bar and a lift and a friend helped the most. Pulled the top bolt, then the bottom bolt of the shocks, then the sway bar and thats it for the rear.

I use a internal spring compressor to remove the spring and like 5" of spacer nuts to keep the stupid thing from hitting the car. I remember reading that you couldn't get it, so I did it with an autozone rental.


Then with the breaker bar to help pull it open as far and long as it would. We sprayed some pb blaster on the bottom of the new spring and put the top in and jammed the bottom in with weight and if needed a prybar.

*To note: I re-used the bump stop and top for the shocks, and if you can find new lower bolts before you start. I had to replace 1 because the old rubber bushing sleeve (which is metal) fused to bolt, but the other was fine.


The front was easier, break the pinch bolt loose and remove, take the break line out, and the abs wire out of the way. The tie rod endlinks were rusted on, but a socket fit on the front and there was a spot on the backside to get a big wrench on to keep it from spinning. The allen key spot was a joke, I bent on and moved on. Once it apart I gave rotor a light kick and the strut popped out. The strut went in just as quick (assuming you assembled yours before starting.

On the ground almost all the way. I started with an ST which measured about 2" in the front and 5" in the rear. The kit brought both to a little more than .5" and they have yet to settle.



I hope this helps somebody.
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Old 11-16-2013, 07:09 PM   #20
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How did you guys tighten and torque your front strut piston nuts? There's no allen key spot on mine and it just keeps spinning when I try to tighten it down more. I got one good blast with the impact, but its definitely not tight enough or torqued

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