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Old 05-11-2008, 10:48 PM   #1
Turbo Turtle
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Arrow How To: Return Fuel System

A lot of talk has been done about the fuel system on a Focus and how to make it good for high HP.

If you have an SVT you have the option of using tom and John's 'trick' but if you have a Zetec you do not.

So the way to solve it and never have to worry about it again is to do a return fuel system.

You can do this a couple of ways. One way is to use the stock pump and pick up and just install a fpr and use the EVAP line as a return. But this one although simple has a problem, you are using the stock pump basket and it will suck dry in a high hp focus. Focuzed1 is having a lot more trouble with his than I am mine. The other way is to do it like mine every thing that is stock is stripped off and the fuel system is all custom.

Here is a how to on a custom return fuel system. *I am going to do all pics as links so its not so big.*

THE PARTS:

The fuel rail:
Steeda fuel rail with AN fittings.

The Fuel pressure regulator:
I used an Aeromotive A1000 1-1 regulator with fuel pressure gauge.

Fuel Pump:
Aeromotive A1000

Filters:
Aeromotive pre and post pump inline filters

Tank:
*the current tank is a 10 gallon drop sump fuel cell from Jegs. Will be switching this out for a more safe cell with a bladder.

Lines:
-10AN from tank to pump. -8AN line from pump to rail. -6AN from rail to regulator and from regulator to tank.

THE INSTALLATION:

Installing the Steeda fuel rail for return:
Remove the fittings off the end for the stock fuel system and installed a -8AN flare onto the inlet and a -8AN to -6AN reducer on on the return side. Both of which need to be the o-ringed kind on the rail side (-8AN) and flared on the line side. There is no long a need for the fuel rail pressure sensor so you can just leave it off and the plug removed. This will throw a CEL (I am going to be checking with resistors and wiring them in soon to to get rid of this light), but it will not affect the way it drives.

Pics:
http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s...d/100_2736.jpg
http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s...d/100_2265.jpg
http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s...d/100_2249.jpg
http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s...d/100_2248.jpg
http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s...d/100_2228.jpg


Installing the fuel pressure regulator:
On the aeromotive A1000 regulator you just need to use one of the holes on the side and the hole on the bottom. They are -6AN fittings, you will need 3 o-ringed -6AN fittings with a flare on one end. The fitting on the side will be connected to the return side of the fuel rail, the fitting on the bottom will be the line that runs to the back of the car to the tank, the other side fitting will be caped off using a tapped AN cap. There is also a fitting on the front of the regulator that can be unplugged and used for a fuel pressure gauge. There is a barb on the side of the regulator for a vacuum source which can be tee'd into any IM vacuum. There is a bolt on top to adjust the pressure of the regulator. You adjust the regulator with the car idling and the vacuum source disconnected. Adjust the regulator to 45psi, tighten the nut down to hold the bolt, and the then plug the vacuum line back up.

Pics:
http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s...d/100_2228.jpg

Installation of the cell:
Most people use the spare tire well as the place to put the cell. The spare can be relocated to somewhere else (I am working on putting it where the stock tank was). My cell uses a 0-90ohm sending unit for fuel level and an aftermarket gauge. The stock sending unit uses a 15-160ohm sending unit and is impossible to find one as far as I know. For the feed line I opened up the -8AN hole to a -10AN and capped the other fitting off. Of the return it is ran to the top of the tank through a -6AN line. For the vent (EVAP replacement) I used the other -6AN fitting on top and a rollover safety vent that is ran under the car and a filter placed on the end. I am also working on a filler neck that will attach to the stock location. *Do not use a bladderless cell, they are dangerous for street use, I am working on affording one with a bladder myself!*

Pics:
http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s...d/100_2638.jpg
http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s...d/100_2658.jpg
http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s...d/100_2659.jpg
http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s...d/100_2734.jpg

The pre-pump fuel filter installation:
I used Aeromotive 10 micron inline fuel filter which comes with -10AN female fittings on each end. You need these to be male so you have to get o-ringed -10AN fittings with a flare on the other end.

Pics:
http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s...d/100_2732.jpg

The fuel pump Installation:
From the pre-pump filter I ran a -10AN line to the pump. I installed the pump under the car tucked in the rear subframe where the factor evap system was, right between the bar that holds the sway bar and the bar that holds the lower control arms. The pump also came with -10AN females and had to be male, I used the same kind of fitting for the inlet as I used for the pre-pump filter, for the outlet used a reducer that went from a -10AN o-ringed side down to a -8AN flared side. The electrical part of the pump is relayed from the stock pump wiring. I used the wiring harness that went to the stock pump to trigger a relay and ran a fused larger gauge line directly from the battery, through the relay, and to the pump. This works great and the pump is getting nice high voltage all the time. The ground wire is the same gauge and is just grounded the the subframe.

Pics:
http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s...d/100_2287.jpg
http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s...d/100_2218.jpg
http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s...d/100_2217.jpg
http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s...d/100_1727.jpg


The post-pump filter:
The post-pump filter is also -10AN females and must of course be male but also must be reduced to a -8AN. The fittings used are the same as the outlet side of the pump.

Pics:
http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s...d/100_2250.jpg
http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s...d/100_2251.jpg

The Lines and fittings:
All my lines and fittings are AN from Jegs. Stainless steal -10AN, -8AN, & -6AN lines. These will vary by the way you do your set up. But they are easy to install... but not as easy to put ends on. They are installed with clamps that you can get with them, they are metal clamps with rubber inside and are attached with self tapping screws. The Fittings are installed by blood, sweat, and tears but do not leak. The best way to do them I found after installing and removing a ton of them is the but them with some thing like a diegrind, dremmil, something with a cut off wheel... make sure you tape the end before you cut them to prevent frailing (2” masking tape works best). To install the fittings you just unscrew the two halves and force the red side of the fitting onto the line trying not to catch is on end and frailing the ends. Once you beat that on you have to push the blue end into it and screw it down all the way till the fitting halves but together.. can be a PITA. But once you get the hang of it your good to go.

Pics:
http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s...d/100_2225.jpg
http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s...d/100_2223.jpg
http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s...d/100_2219.jpg
http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s...d/100_2735.jpg


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Last edited by Turbo Turtle; 05-12-2008 at 09:17 PM.
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Old 05-11-2008, 11:10 PM   #2
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Hot damn, this is a killer write up!! You did an amazing job! I don't need anything like this anytime soon, but i read the whole things just because how good and informative it is!

+1 rep!!
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Old 05-11-2008, 11:35 PM   #3
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Of course this is great thread, very informative and helpful.....that's ma DAGG!!!

we found a company that is making us a sending unit, it takes two weeks but willl work with stock gauge in cluster, this same company also has filler necks to use outside/stock gas filler.
Tom will tell us all bout it...,I dont wanna steal his thunder.

Good job

Rich
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Old 05-12-2008, 06:04 AM   #4
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Yeah!...now perhaps in the next few years when I am state side again, I can do this, and get a new tune. I'd love to see the stoker hit the 500hp mark one day.

Definately a keepers!
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Old 05-12-2008, 07:11 AM   #5
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Great write-up! How much would this cost to make? Also, does the fuel tank need to be over 1/2 full to work properly?
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Old 05-12-2008, 07:44 AM   #6
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I cannot say enough how this needs to be a tested fuel cell to withstand heavy impact in a crash

Look at this picture and how close the fuel sump and lines are to the rear bumper crash bad, what if he got hit from behind at ? ? ? ? ? ? http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s...d/100_2734.jpg

He knows im not trying to bust his chops over his return system and he has plans to change it , just trying to make sure no one copies his and thinks it is safe to do

Im trying to find the pictures of a couple that was burned to death in the car from a 40MPH impact and had a CAN type fuel tank and not a pladder fuel cell, It is very dangerous to do this so keep it as safe as you can

Tom
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Old 05-12-2008, 09:31 AM   #7
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yeah tom you are very right. and i plan to change it very soon. hurry up and post about yours. the only one i can find with a bladder is a circle track one that has the pickup on one side, and i am going to be turning more than just one way, lol. also there is no way i could run a sending unit on the circle track ones.
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Old 05-12-2008, 09:32 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IslandFocus View Post
Great write-up! How much would this cost to make? Also, does the fuel tank need to be over 1/2 full to work properly?
this one you can run wide open around curves or straight until it is dry and it wont affect it. cost is just about 1k or a little more. im not sure how much Tom's fuel cell is going to cost me yet.
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Old 05-12-2008, 11:27 AM   #9
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Well.... I think this should be a sticky

BUT there are a few things that do need changing as Tom already pointed out.
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Old 05-12-2008, 09:18 PM   #10
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change added to fuel cell installation section.

thanks for the sticky
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