Sway bar end link replacement.

[Executionerhk]

how do they look?
on Advanceauto part... i can only find some screws...
like repair kit...
and the Moog Chassis Prod. Sway Bar Link Kit
Sway Bar Link Kit: Front Suspension; 2 Required Per Vehicle
have no picture...

so i saw the picture of the circle...
so that noise is from the entire rod or just those screws?

[DarkFire1986]

Mike's actually got Moogs and Moog's in an unmarked box. The Moog's in an unmarked box came to my door for a total of $30. Cheaper and better than OEM.

[Chick]

You can also try www.rockauto.com for the Moog endlinks. That's where we purchased ours from. We've been purchasing our replacement parts from them and they are awesome.

[Executionerhk]

so normally, the sway bar will not make noise
but the sway bar link will?

is that hard to replace?
any "How-to" link?

[DarkFire1986]

It's in the how to archive
http://web.archive.org/web/200708141...barendlink.htm

::EDIT:: When I clicked the link to double check it, the text didn't come up right. It's all there, you just have to select it to view it. May just be my computer though...

[Executionerhk]

you have a high mileage Focus and can hear clunking coming from the front end when hitting bumps at low speed than your Sway Bar end Links are going bad.

Tools
19MM socket (for lug nuts- 18MM for non chrome lugs)
Allen wrench (unknown size - this is for the stock end link bolts)
17MM open end wrench
15mm open or box end wrench (for the end link nut)
Torque Wrench



1) First Jack up car and remove tire (I started with the left side).

2) After tire is removed find correct size of Allen wrench to use on end link stud.

3) *Optional* spray end link nuts with rust penetrator.

4) Take 15mm socket and break the nuts loose.

4a) *I started with the top nut on both sides*

5) While holding stud with Allen wrench loosen nut about 2-3 full turns.

6) Now take the 17MM open. On the back side or the stud (where the rubber jacket is) move the rubber piece exposing the 2 flat spots. The nut should be loose enough to fit the 17MM open end on the 2 flat spots. Now take the 15mm socket and while holding the wrench take the nut off completely. (You may need a helper to hold the 17MM wrench or to work the socket)




7) Re-thread the nut onto the end link bolt about a turn or 2 (just enough so the end link doesn't flop around while taking off the other (lower in my case) one.

8) Repeat steps 5 & 6 for other nut but the bolt goes through in reverse direction.

9) Remove the hand tightened nut from step 7 and remove end link from car. Save the nuts (unless you purchased new ones).

10) Insert new end link. put nuts on hand tight.

10a) *I started tightening the upper bolt*

11) Place the 17MM Wrench on the 2 flat spots or the hex nut (on euro version of end link) and tighten nut. *Do NOT remove the 17MM open end just yet*. Take the torque wrench and torque the nut to ??ft/lb for upper and 37 ft/lb for lower (the torque specs are different for upper and lower nuts). After nuts are torqued than you can take the 17MM open end out. You may have to give it a good tug to get it out.

12) Repeat step 11 for the lower nut. Again the bolts are in reverse direction.

13) Repeat steps 1-12 for Right side of car.

[Executionerhk]

it seems pretty hard...
and people have experience and can explain it in a simple manner?

[DarkFire1986]

Take to Ford dealer, pay for one hour of labor and have two end links replaced.

[Executionerhk]

i don have money...
i just pay for that car last week...
end up is lemon car...

i am so depress... call the seller, individual seller...
he told me i had the wrong number...
son of a bXXXX!!

[MichaelJD1980]

Originally Posted by Executionerhk

i don have money...
i just pay for that car last week...
end up is lemon car...

i am so depress... call the seller, individual seller...
he told me i had the wrong number...
son of a bXXXX!!

Your car is not a lemon. It is a high mileage car in need of some routine maintenance. From what I can tell from your posts, the seller didn't hide anything (i.e. the engine wasn't recently washed to hide the oil from the leaky valve cover gasket, and it doesn't appear that your thermostat housing is actually leaking yet). Any car with 90,000 miles on it is going to need some maintenance. That's why you don't pay as much for a high mileage car as you do for a newer model.

Go here: http://www.cartalk.com/content/mechx/find.html and find yourself a mechanic. Put your zip code in and look at the reviews for the shops in your area. For the most part, they will be independent mechanics who will be more reasonably priced and more competent than dealerships.

Even if all of your worries are true (vc gasket, t-stat housing and endlinks), you are probably looking at 4 hours of labor at about $80/hour. With parts and labor, you are probably looking at a balpark of about $450 total.