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Old 05-01-2012, 12:07 PM   #151
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DoomsdayFAN View Post
So it sounds like all-in-all, I'd only lose a couple of lbs per wheel. Not worth it IMO. I'd rather spend the money on cams & engine mounts.
It's a couple pounds of unsprung-reciprocating weight though. That 10lbs you drop in wheel weight on front would be about equivalent to dropping 50-60lbs of dead weight out of the car. Then think the tire weights also. It can make a big difference.

For the price you could buy bags for the rear, you could just about buy adjustable rear shocks. Battery relocation for a basically stock car that doesn't need it is a waste of time. Especially since most trunk mounted batteries require a rear external shut off switch in order to be in compliance with NHRA/IHRA regulations. Something else I'm also switching to soon is suspension limiters. It's basically just two chains on the front control arms the run up to the strut mount point on the frame and keeps the suspension from lifting. On a RWD car, this is controls the front end lift to get the best center of gravity when lifting the front wheels. On our FWD cars, it's a ghetto drag pack.
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Old 05-01-2012, 01:39 PM   #152
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SMITHBOY76908 View Post
It's a couple pounds of unsprung-reciprocating weight though. That 10lbs you drop in wheel weight on front would be about equivalent to dropping 50-60lbs of dead weight out of the car. Then think the tire weights also. It can make a big difference.

For the price you could buy bags for the rear, you could just about buy adjustable rear shocks. Battery relocation for a basically stock car that doesn't need it is a waste of time. Especially since most trunk mounted batteries require a rear external shut off switch in order to be in compliance with NHRA/IHRA regulations. Something else I'm also switching to soon is suspension limiters. It's basically just two chains on the front control arms the run up to the strut mount point on the frame and keeps the suspension from lifting. On a RWD car, this is controls the front end lift to get the best center of gravity when lifting the front wheels. On our FWD cars, it's a ghetto drag pack.
I want to see that chain setup when you're done with it.
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Old 05-01-2012, 11:17 PM   #153
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I want to see that chain setup when you're done with it.
I'll be sure to do that. The straps are more common but also more permanent since they are usually weld-on and harder to take the strap/cable off. I'll be using the same weld-on mounting brackets but with small chains with release hooks so I can just hook it up at the track and unhook them when it's time to drive home.
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Old 05-02-2012, 07:03 AM   #154
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Quote:
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I'll be sure to do that. The straps are more common but also more permanent since they are usually weld-on and harder to take the strap/cable off. I'll be using the same weld-on mounting brackets but with small chains with release hooks so I can just hook it up at the track and unhook them when it's time to drive home.
A turnbuckle for pre-loading would be a thought. That would be a beefy and pricey turnbuckle though. Now you have my wheels turning.
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Old 05-03-2012, 09:04 AM   #155
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yeah doomsday i put an air filter on my car and it only gave me 5hp and it drop my power to wieght ratio by .3/1 while i would of had to take out my whole back seat to get that. It's better to upgrade the engine because it doesn't matter what you do to lighten it, you won't make it a lotus elise. no even if it was just frame and motor. just put money in the engine, you'll get better results.
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Old 05-03-2012, 05:55 PM   #156
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Is it possible to remove just the upper portion of the backseat? I really don't want to have to unbolt the whole thing from the frame itself. I'd much rather just take off the bits and pieces that can easily be put back on, without much effort.

I'll hopefully be getting my 4-1 header on tomorrow. After that, I'll be getting a tune, and I'll have the car made to where it takes premium grade gas, so hopefully that helps some too.

After that, maybe in a few months, I was thinking about upgrading my camshafts and valve springs/retainers. That'll be around $630 for all that + whatever it costs to have it installed.

After that, maybe late next year sometime, I was thinking about possibly getting a pair of $900 coilovers.
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Old 05-03-2012, 06:33 PM   #157
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Quote:
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yeah doomsday i put an air filter on my car and it only gave me 5hp and it drop my power to wieght ratio by .3/1 while i would of had to take out my whole back seat to get that. It's better to upgrade the engine because it doesn't matter what you do to lighten it, you won't make it a lotus elise. no even if it was just frame and motor. just put money in the engine, you'll get better results.
While this is true, weight reduction is free. Just takes a little bit of your time. I went from 13.75 @ 103mph to 13.42 @ 105mph with just weight reduction. I later got it to 12.93 @ 105mph with slicks. I shaved off almost a full second without adding any more power to the car, just weight reduction and tires.
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Old 05-15-2012, 11:04 AM   #158
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My 2001 ZX3
15.6@87mph, 60ft 2.2
Stock cams, injectors, bottom end and clutch with 222000 miles

Tune with bolt ons and mildly ported head.

Crower stage 2s and Quaife diff are next.

Fun street car.

When do I need to up size the injectors?

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Old 05-16-2012, 02:37 AM   #159
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stock zetec injectors are 19#. with your mods 24# svt injectors or 30# injectors and maf should do as well as a retune for them. the 30# would give you room to grow in the future.
your probably running the stockers pretty close to max at wot top end. a wideband o2 would show it starting to lean out if you were running out of injector or close too it.
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Old 05-16-2012, 09:24 AM   #160
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Quote:
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stock zetec injectors are 19#. with your mods 24# svt injectors or 30# injectors and maf should do as well as a retune for them. the 30# would give you room to grow in the future.
your probably running the stockers pretty close to max at wot top end. a wideband o2 would show it starting to lean out if you were running out of injector or close too it.
Thanks for the answer.
I think you are right about the injectors being needed for future mods.
It is tuned with an Innovative MTX-L WB O2 it is still ok at WOT the moment.
SVT MAF tube and airbox mod are in it.
I agree there is no other way to tune it safely without it.
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