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Old 03-16-2012, 04:50 PM   #91
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My car is full blown svt swapped. Tranny, motor, ecu. I had an orp and a stage 3 clutch and lightweigh flywheel. With diablos shitty tune and a roush 2.25" cat back ( pre svt swap so I kept it)
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Old 03-18-2012, 04:15 AM   #92
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best in my SVTF was 15.4@ninety something. Best in my MS3 was 13.8@103
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Old 03-24-2012, 07:19 PM   #93
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I'm not in these videos and I didn't film them but I was there at the track that night. These are a couple of my bro's ricer friends. Of their group, these two guys here are amongst the slowest. But once I get my NA mods on my car, these are they guys I would go up against first. I wonder how I will do?


Car in the right lane (gray) is the one who's waiting to race me:

(Somebody doesn't know how to shift)
YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.




Same car as above in the left lane:

(American Muscle eats rice for dinner)
YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.



That said, I've never raced him before. I've raced my brother and he's the fastest in his group, but when we raced, I was running completely stock and he beat me by several car lengths. Hopefully when I get all of my NA mods on, I'll at least be able to nip at his heels.
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Old 03-24-2012, 08:40 PM   #94
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It's not hard to beat 17+ sec 1/4 mile times. If you know how to drive that should be a piece of cake.
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Old 03-24-2012, 09:54 PM   #95
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Originally Posted by DoomsdayFAN View Post
What's the best way to get traction off the line in an ATX? The place I normally launch from (simultaniously holding the brake while stepping on the gas, then letting off the brake as I floor it) is from 2000 RPMs. I usually get a small amount of tire spin off the line as things are now, but with these new mods and the additional power, I anticipate a lot more tire spin. So without touching my suspenion or adding anything to it (because I'll have to save for that, and that wont come til probably next year) what can I do to get as little tire spin as possible? Launch at lower RPMs, like maybe 1500? Or what? Should I just keep my foot off the gas until the light turns green, and then from there, just STOMP on the gas?
There are two types of launches in an automatic. You can Flash the converter or you can foot brake it. Flashing the converter will always net the fastest 60ft time because the flash stall is 200-300rpm over the true stall of the converter. "Power Braking" A.K.A Foot brake won't net you a better time.

Stock converter in my ZX2 is 2200rpm on the foot brake but flashes to 2400-2500rpm. Usually you can pick up .05 off your 60ft times that way.

Start your air pressure out at 25psi on street tires and lower them 2 psi if you lose traction but I would not go below 18 psi because you will hurt your mph on the top end.

You will never acheive any better then a 2.5 60ft on street tires and a factory stall torque. If your serious about modding your automatic look into a leightweight race wheel, small diamater tire slick or street slick and an aftermarket torque converter.

I have a shit load of passes on my car through the pass two years and for reference we may not be the same car but i'm automatic as well.
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Old 03-25-2012, 03:04 AM   #96
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It's not hard to beat 17+ sec 1/4 mile times. If you know how to drive that should be a piece of cake.
What exactly is there to know about driving an ATX? I thought it was as simple as stomping on the gas and going?

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There are two types of launches in an automatic. You can Flash the converter or you can foot brake it. Flashing the converter will always net the fastest 60ft time because the flash stall is 200-300rpm over the true stall of the converter. "Power Braking" A.K.A Foot brake won't net you a better time.
I know what power braking is, but what exactly is "flashing"? Is that where you just stomp on the pedal at green, instead of power breaking and launching?

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Start your air pressure out at 25psi on street tires and lower them 2 psi if you lose traction but I would not go below 18 psi because you will hurt your mph on the top end.
I think I have about 35psi in my tires now. What's wrong with more air in the tires? How does less air help?
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Old 03-25-2012, 09:00 AM   #97
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Originally Posted by DoomsdayFAN View Post
What exactly is there to know about driving an ATX? I thought it was as simple as stomping on the gas and going?



I know what power braking is, but what exactly is "flashing"? Is that where you just stomp on the pedal at green, instead of power breaking and launching?



I think I have about 35psi in my tires now. What's wrong with more air in the tires? How does less air help?
Flashing is stomping on the gas yes, it shocks the converter as it sees a higher load and stalls higher.

Your spinning off the line and your questioning why you should take air pressure out? Taking air pressure out of the tires allows the tire to flatten out and apply more surface area to the track. More surface area equals more traction. It also has another affect that the tires become softer thus absorbing shock better and resulting in less wheel spin. This is why large diamter wheels with low profile tires are shit for drag racing, not only are they heavy but the stiff sidewalls do nothing for traction.
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Old 03-25-2012, 11:23 AM   #98
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I never messed with air pressure in street tires, dont see the point. Id keep your air pressure where it is as i doubt you will spin, if you do maybe give it a shot. Id say intake, 93 tune would be more then enough to take him at the track.

its obvisily a single cam... right?

edit: Sidewall flex is not transmitted to the tread on a street used radial, but as you said you want the tire to sit square. over inflated or under inflated both will hurt traction
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Old 03-25-2012, 04:00 PM   #99
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Let me ask you this... what is harder on your car overall: Flashing vs Power Breaking?

I seem to get pretty good thrust off the line when launching at 2k RPMs, but I get some tire spin when doing that. I've never tried flashing it, but maybe I'll give it a go. It just seems like it might be more of a shock to the system and that's what worries me. LOL, I know I'm being hard on it to begin with when doing this stuff either way but I'd still like to choose the lesser of two evils whenever possible.

Is it bad for your tires to run less air in them than is recommended? Like, I figure on track day, I let air out right before I go, then when I'm done, I'll stop by the nearest gas station and fill them back up. Hopefully that doesn't kill my tires.



Otherwise, random video.... why are these guys SO slow. The Focus is insanely slow, and for a Turbo, the Honda Element isn't much better. With just my CAI, I bet I could beat both of them and get a better time.

Focus Sedan vs Honda Element (Turbo)
(Skip to 0:30 for the race)

YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.
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Old 03-25-2012, 07:05 PM   #100
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bwinkelsas View Post
I never messed with air pressure in street tires, dont see the point. Id keep your air pressure where it is as i doubt you will spin, if you do maybe give it a shot. Id say intake, 93 tune would be more then enough to take him at the track.

its obvisily a single cam... right?

edit: Sidewall flex is not transmitted to the tread on a street used radial, but as you said you want the tire to sit square. over inflated or under inflated both will hurt traction
Oh there is a big difference in street tires when it comes to air pressure. If track prep is not correct you really need to rely on the correct air pressure to get your 60ft down. First time I ran at the track I burnt the entire 1st gear and halfway into 2nd gear in my automatic. 35PSI, the old school guys laughed and told me to drop it by 10 psi then keep going down till it hooked. I usually run 23 psi in my tires seems to work well.

Even with street radials when you drop the pressure you see the sidewall start to bulge and get soft, to me that's an advantage. It may be not the wrinkle sidewall that bias ply slicks give but it's still another advantage.
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