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Old 12-19-2007, 07:39 PM   #1
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Monroe Pads

So last night I replaced my rotors and pads all around on my 05 ST. The rotors are brand new from motorcraft and the pads I bought are from the company Monroe. Their website is http://www.monroebrakes.com/products/prod_dynamics.asp for anyone wanting to visit the site to learn about them. After figuring out how to twist the rear pistons back in the job was pretty straightforward. I have roughly 25 miles on the new brakes now and I am a little worried because they feel much weaker than what was on before. I bought the car with 17000 miles on it and it now has 40000. The rear pads were worn to nothing but I believe the fronts had been replaced before because they were almost new. I also believe the fronts were ceramic because I never had dust on them whereas the rears constantly had dust. The front rotors were also pretty rutted which I have read can come from ceramics. (not sure if that is true or not) Anyway. The Monroe brake pads are a semi-metallic pad which I have read operate better when heated which could explain why the initial bite of the pad seems less. (they do seem to get grippier when heated) I also know the Motorcraft pads are organic and from what I have read organics typically have less bite and are softer than semi-metallic. Now I dunno if there is just a longer break-in period for these pads or what. I have emailed Monroe to ask and am waiting for a response. These new pads make more noise too which doesn't really bother me all that much. (i could care less about noise and dust. dust gives me an excuse to wash it. hehehe) Anyway. Any advice would be nice. Thanks


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Old 12-19-2007, 08:57 PM   #2
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So..... guys.... yeah....
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Old 12-19-2007, 09:21 PM   #3
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Monroe Brake Pads

I posted this exact post in the wheels and suspension forum but am getting no responses. So I figure more people will see it here. Anyway

So last night I replaced my rotors and pads all around on my 05 ST. The rotors are brand new from motorcraft and the pads I bought are from the company Monroe. Their website is http://www.monroebrakes.com/products/prod_dynamics.asp for anyone wanting to visit the site to learn about them. After figuring out how to twist the rear pistons back in the job was pretty straightforward. I have roughly 25 miles on the new brakes now and I am a little worried because they feel much weaker than what was on before. I bought the car with 17000 miles on it and it now has 40000. The rear pads were worn to nothing but I believe the fronts had been replaced before because they were almost new. I also believe the fronts were ceramic because I never had dust on them whereas the rears constantly had dust. The front rotors were also pretty rutted which I have read can come from ceramics. (not sure if that is true or not) Anyway. The Monroe brake pads are a semi-metallic pad which I have read operate better when heated which could explain why the initial bite of the pad seems less. (they do seem to get grippier when heated) I also know the Motorcraft pads are organic and from what I have read organics typically have less bite and are softer than semi-metallic. Now I dunno if there is just a longer break-in period for these pads or what. I have emailed Monroe to ask and am waiting for a response. These new pads make more noise too which doesn't really bother me all that much. (i could care less about noise and dust. dust gives me an excuse to wash it. hehehe) Anyway. Any advice would be nice. Thanks
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Old 12-19-2007, 09:35 PM   #4
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Monroe makes a decent product for everyday use.

As far as the pads feeling weaker...at this stage they probably are.

The reason is that pads need time and mileage to properly "seat". There is also a protective layer (very thin) on the new pads that needs to wear off before you start to feel real bite.

You should notice an improvement after 300 - 500 miles or a tank and a half of fuel.

in the interim, increase your following distance with other cars and keep your head on a swivel.

If the condition doesn't improve then you will want to rethink your pad material selection.
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Old 12-19-2007, 09:42 PM   #5
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Makes sense. Thanks for the reply. I also forgot something. I have a hand pumped vacuum bleeder that I tried on the right rear before I even got started. I opened up the nipple but the bleeder does not create enough suction or something so it didnt work very well. So i just closed it up and forgot about it. I bet the seal on the from the nipple to the vacuum hose wasn't very good and some air got in. Is it possible that some bubbles in the rear right section could affect brake performance of the entire car and possibly move to other sections? I mean air in the system would cause this too huh.
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Old 12-19-2007, 09:48 PM   #6
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It may take as much as 300 miles for the new brakes to fully seat -in on the discs.
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Old 12-19-2007, 09:57 PM   #7
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I got a similar response in the wheels forum. Well I am gonna bleed the system too because air probably got in after I tried a hand pumped vacuum bleeder that was not powerful enough which might also be causing some of it. I just left it alone after that which was probably stupid... ah well. And I am almost positive I got no grease on the pad faces or anything like that so I guess we will wait and see. It has been getting progressively better so we will see. I believe Monroe makes components mainly for shops and professionals. I get that impression from their website which also says the break in should only take about 20 stops from 20 mph. Probably advertising hype huh.
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Old 12-20-2007, 01:28 AM   #8
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Well, if you had the bleeders open you may have gotten air in one of the lines. VERY possible thats it as well. I would just do a quick bleed on all 4 brakes and see if it firms up.
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Old 12-20-2007, 06:25 PM   #9
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Air in the system will cause a mushy feeling pedal. The pedal will feel as it it wants to go to the floor. If this happens before you re-bleed the system pump the pedal while braking. As WeeAsp indicated it will take a few miles to properly bed the pads into the new rotors. Pad material is actually in bedded into the rotor surface. Its the friction from the pad and the pad material bedded in the rotor that provides the optimum friction. When you re-bleed do all four corners not just the one you think is messed up. If there was air in the system it could have easily contaminated the other corners by now.
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Old 12-20-2007, 09:27 PM   #10
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So i bled all four corners using the pump and release method which worked very well. Got a few big bubbles outta the back right which was good. The braking has firmed up quite a lot and feels good. About fifty miles on the pads so as I have been told they probably have a little while left to bed in so I would think it will only get better. The initial bite has definately got better. One question I have though is about the biasing of the brake system. The reason I ask is because the left rear rotor and the front right rotor always seem hotter than the others right after driving. Does the system bias power diagonally? Is this normal? While braking I don't feel any more power on one side than the other and there is no shudder at all. No pulling so I don't think that there is a problem. What do you think.
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